6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

Yes that would be ok, but a better solution would be to set them outside in late afternoon and bring them in mid morning if that's possible. That is if you are not getting frost. Although Allyssum withstands frost these have been grown indoors. Next year put your basket outside in early spring and let them come up and grow out there.

That number of plants in that size container is plenty of room for Allyssum. They have a very small root system

Thanks a lot oilpainter...hope my alyssum come up nice. this is the first year I am starting from seeds.

will follow what ur advice for next year too..

Great responses people! I brought my morning glory seeds to work with me. (I know, I'm hopeless. But I'm also bored to death.) I've got an emory board and I'm going to scarify them then plant them when I get home.

I'll let you know how it works.

One question, does scarifying recommended for pepper seeds?

Here are some good seed starting tips for vegetables.

Here is a link that might be useful: Seed Starting Tips

Thanks.

I just soak them in water overnight and plant them the following day. Mine usually sprout within 10 days and I've always had just about 100% germination. I cover the pots to retain moisture and keep them somewhere warm but I don't use bottom heat. My problem is that my growing season isn't long enough and if not started very early inside I don't get flowers.

The leaves would be yellow and the plant would fail to thrive.

The top leaves look yellow to me!

Yes, this is a yoghurt conainer (with drainage holes), but the plant is not root-bound. The cucumber that I mentioned is in in a larger container (3 by 3 inches - a real one designed for plants!), and is also not root bound. I am hoping you are right that it is sun/wind damage as these I can control (at least for now) - I much prefer this verdict over hearing that I have a fungus or bacterial infection. So I'll moderate the light exposure & be careful to harden-off gently. Thanks for all the comments!

I have not used Burpee vegetable seeds but I am using Ferry Morse this year. I have planted mesclun, radishes, carrots, and kohlrabi. The mesclun mix is great! It germinated quickly and matured in the time the packet stated. The radishes also germinated quickly with 100% rate. However, the days to maturity are not matching up with the packet. The pack states 25 days to maturity. I have done 3 different plantings of these radish seeds and with all 3, none of the radishes were ready at 25 days. In fact, my first planting took 40 days and even then the radishes ranged from 1/2-3/4" x less than 1/2". And some of them never went to bulb. I don't know if it is the quality of the seed or what but I am not so happy with Ferry Morse so far. I have no idea about the carrots or kohlrabi. They won't be ready for a couple more months. That is if they mature according to the packet...

This is only my fourth year of gardening from seed, so I'm definitely not as experienced as a lot of the other gardeners are here...although I do have a tendency to hoard seeds and grow in mass, so I feel comfortable making a comment here! I second Ferry Morse over Burpee. Burpee seeds aren't bad or anything, but for me, it seems as if they don't give you as many seeds in a pack, and they are expensive! Lol* Also as mentioned Ferry Morse seems to have a better selection. From my limited experience, neither one seemed to stand out more or less as far as germination goes. I have never had a pack of seeds that just didn't sprout unless it was like ten years old or something...but that also depends on the seeds. Some seeds will last for years while others are very short lived and reduce in germination immensely with each year. In my experience you even might consider taking advice (not to diminish in anyway what has been said here!) with a grain of salt because there could be a number of other reasons for low germination besides the brand of seeds...like the conditions they endured during shipping, packing, conditions at the store and when they came home, or even if the grower provided ideal conditions for that particular type of seed to grow. :)

Good luck!

Thank you so much, I will google. I had been entering terms like apple seedlings and getting lots of information on germination but not a lot of help regarding what to do next, all of this advice has been so helpful.

I am glad to hear that growth can be expected, even if blooms and fruit cannot. If I get success and health I may drive them up north to my family and let them attempt to plant them into the ground next spring.

Google Johnny Appleseed!

Whioops forgot to tell you to remove the bottom leaves of the cutting. Strip the leaves from the cut end up about 2 to 3 inches. Then dip in rooting hormone. Rooting hormone is cheap and readily available where you find planting supplies

I have found it better to make your cuttings at a 45 degree angle and not to put the rooting hormone on the wound but where you strip the lower leaves from. Rooting hormone on the wound plugs it and keeps it from taking up water.
Soak your passion flower seeds in orange juice. Others will say no but I scarify too. I planted 10 seeds last year and none came up. When I sifted through the soil and found only one, I scarified it and it sprouted in 3 days. I now have 5 rooted cuttings and the original P. incarnata.

I grow mine in full sun in a garden with not so good soil, they do need plenty of water. I usually fertilize everything with liquid fert. every other week. I have never noticed the color being less vibrant....but then again I have never tried growing them in shade! If you have extra seed, why don't you try a couple in the shade too, if you have a place? That would be a good experiment, and you'll have to let me know the outcome if you try!

I grow mine in full sun in a garden with not so good soil, they do need plenty of water. I usually fertilize everything with liquid fert. every other week. I have never noticed the color being less vibrant....but then again I have never tried growing them in shade! If you have extra seed, why don't you try a couple in the shade too, if you have a place? That would be a good experiment, and you'll have to let me know the outcome if you try!

Thanks everyone.

Yeah I definately know to cover those seeds & at the right depth.

Based on the answers above, can I assume that the seeds i mentioned can then be sprouted without any light exposure (i.e. my growing medium can be in total darkness) as long as proper moisture & temperature is maintained?

also - i have read about not putting my growing medium in direct sun as it will "cook the seeds". but if the air temperature is 55-65 degrees F then does this still hold true? my seeds are in a combination of tiny seed starter pots (with makeshift plastic domes) and some in cardboard egg cartons. From what i've read, optimal temperature for sprouting these particular plants is 75-80 degrees.

Thanks!

Yes, it holds true. Plastic dome = greenhouse effect. Way too hot under there.

It wouldn't hurt if you dowsed the soil of all of them with the fungicide when you transplant. I meant throw out your containers they will be contaminated.

You got off to a bad start for your first time. I hope you try again. A word for further trys at seed starting. Once the seed has become a seedling it does not need as much moisture as it did in germinating. Plant them in 3 oz dixie cups with a good soilless mix Adding perilite helps give the soil good drainage, but there will be some in your mix.Wet the mixture before you put it in the cups. You want it wet right through but not sopping. squeeze a handful and a little moisture should come out but not a lot. Once they are planted let them dry about half way before you water and then bottom water. You can tell by the weight of the container if they need water. It will be light and float when you put it in the water. Letting a plant dry between watering makes the plant put out more roots so you have a healthier plant.

There is not a gardener alive who has not made mistakes or killed plants or started out as a newbie. Our knowledge is gained through trial and error---Good luck

Wonderful! Thank you so much for this information, oilpainter. I will go out a purchase a fungicide and a soilless mix today. I'll also report back in a few days.

Thank you again!

TenthMuse

I covered everything last night, but found that a couple places were exposed because the wind knocked the tarp off. So at around 6:30, before the sun poked over the trees, I was out there watering those parts. Seems like they are doing okay. Glad I covered them. It was quite icy.

Why does the grass do so well despite frost??

Kim

Some plants are just made to take the cold and others the heat. Its like tomatoes and broccoli or impatiens and pansies. Tomatoes originally come from a much warmer climate and are not made to defend themselves from the cold, where broccoli and pansies are from colder climates and thrive in cooler weather.