6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
I have not used Burpee vegetable seeds but I am using Ferry Morse this year. I have planted mesclun, radishes, carrots, and kohlrabi. The mesclun mix is great! It germinated quickly and matured in the time the packet stated. The radishes also germinated quickly with 100% rate. However, the days to maturity are not matching up with the packet. The pack states 25 days to maturity. I have done 3 different plantings of these radish seeds and with all 3, none of the radishes were ready at 25 days. In fact, my first planting took 40 days and even then the radishes ranged from 1/2-3/4" x less than 1/2". And some of them never went to bulb. I don't know if it is the quality of the seed or what but I am not so happy with Ferry Morse so far. I have no idea about the carrots or kohlrabi. They won't be ready for a couple more months. That is if they mature according to the packet...
This is only my fourth year of gardening from seed, so I'm definitely not as experienced as a lot of the other gardeners are here...although I do have a tendency to hoard seeds and grow in mass, so I feel comfortable making a comment here! I second Ferry Morse over Burpee. Burpee seeds aren't bad or anything, but for me, it seems as if they don't give you as many seeds in a pack, and they are expensive! Lol* Also as mentioned Ferry Morse seems to have a better selection. From my limited experience, neither one seemed to stand out more or less as far as germination goes. I have never had a pack of seeds that just didn't sprout unless it was like ten years old or something...but that also depends on the seeds. Some seeds will last for years while others are very short lived and reduce in germination immensely with each year. In my experience you even might consider taking advice (not to diminish in anyway what has been said here!) with a grain of salt because there could be a number of other reasons for low germination besides the brand of seeds...like the conditions they endured during shipping, packing, conditions at the store and when they came home, or even if the grower provided ideal conditions for that particular type of seed to grow. :)
Good luck!
My rule of thumb....
If they are planted outside or are still beneath the soil, no hardening off... but I also take into effect temps and soil moisture. If you grew your seeds in 90* temps inside and then you put them out at 50*.. that would not be good, even if they have not poked through the soil yet. Same as a downpour when they are used to peaceful moist soil.
Hardening off only takes a few days to a week at most. It is well worth the effort to save your seeds!
Keriann~
Thank you so much, I will google. I had been entering terms like apple seedlings and getting lots of information on germination but not a lot of help regarding what to do next, all of this advice has been so helpful.
I am glad to hear that growth can be expected, even if blooms and fruit cannot. If I get success and health I may drive them up north to my family and let them attempt to plant them into the ground next spring.
I have found it better to make your cuttings at a 45 degree angle and not to put the rooting hormone on the wound but where you strip the lower leaves from. Rooting hormone on the wound plugs it and keeps it from taking up water.
Soak your passion flower seeds in orange juice. Others will say no but I scarify too. I planted 10 seeds last year and none came up. When I sifted through the soil and found only one, I scarified it and it sprouted in 3 days. I now have 5 rooted cuttings and the original P. incarnata.
I grow mine in full sun in a garden with not so good soil, they do need plenty of water. I usually fertilize everything with liquid fert. every other week. I have never noticed the color being less vibrant....but then again I have never tried growing them in shade! If you have extra seed, why don't you try a couple in the shade too, if you have a place? That would be a good experiment, and you'll have to let me know the outcome if you try!
I grow mine in full sun in a garden with not so good soil, they do need plenty of water. I usually fertilize everything with liquid fert. every other week. I have never noticed the color being less vibrant....but then again I have never tried growing them in shade! If you have extra seed, why don't you try a couple in the shade too, if you have a place? That would be a good experiment, and you'll have to let me know the outcome if you try!
Thanks everyone.
Yeah I definately know to cover those seeds & at the right depth.
Based on the answers above, can I assume that the seeds i mentioned can then be sprouted without any light exposure (i.e. my growing medium can be in total darkness) as long as proper moisture & temperature is maintained?
also - i have read about not putting my growing medium in direct sun as it will "cook the seeds". but if the air temperature is 55-65 degrees F then does this still hold true? my seeds are in a combination of tiny seed starter pots (with makeshift plastic domes) and some in cardboard egg cartons. From what i've read, optimal temperature for sprouting these particular plants is 75-80 degrees.
Thanks!
It wouldn't hurt if you dowsed the soil of all of them with the fungicide when you transplant. I meant throw out your containers they will be contaminated.
You got off to a bad start for your first time. I hope you try again. A word for further trys at seed starting. Once the seed has become a seedling it does not need as much moisture as it did in germinating. Plant them in 3 oz dixie cups with a good soilless mix Adding perilite helps give the soil good drainage, but there will be some in your mix.Wet the mixture before you put it in the cups. You want it wet right through but not sopping. squeeze a handful and a little moisture should come out but not a lot. Once they are planted let them dry about half way before you water and then bottom water. You can tell by the weight of the container if they need water. It will be light and float when you put it in the water. Letting a plant dry between watering makes the plant put out more roots so you have a healthier plant.
There is not a gardener alive who has not made mistakes or killed plants or started out as a newbie. Our knowledge is gained through trial and error---Good luck
I covered everything last night, but found that a couple places were exposed because the wind knocked the tarp off. So at around 6:30, before the sun poked over the trees, I was out there watering those parts. Seems like they are doing okay. Glad I covered them. It was quite icy.
Why does the grass do so well despite frost??
Kim
Some plants are just made to take the cold and others the heat. Its like tomatoes and broccoli or impatiens and pansies. Tomatoes originally come from a much warmer climate and are not made to defend themselves from the cold, where broccoli and pansies are from colder climates and thrive in cooler weather.
A few answers for you...often fluctuating temperatures will help in germination, as in lower at night than daytime (exceptions might be tropicals). I will often place the pots of seeds that I know are going to take many months to germinate outside on my deck...tucked discreetly among pots containing plants so that I remember to water them.
You can top your seed pots with grit over those seeds that will take a few to many months to germinate, it will discourage moss and algae from forming. Chick grit, horticultural grit, or even fine aquarium gravel from the pet store.
Your seed pots don't need to be under lights until germination begins.
The advantage of the grit is it dries between watering at least on top which is where the algae grows. This greatly helps eliminate algae growth. The soil under the grit remains moist and in most cases those seeds that require months to germinate will survive. Al
Plants CANNOT use blood meal etc.... directly they must first be broken down and converted to a nitrate by bacterial action..... in order for the bacteria to multiply they must have nitrates & phosphates which they get from the soil SOOOOOOOOO there is a shortage of nuitrants for a period of weeks or months then later you get a pay back in nitrates. its no wonder your plants are stunted........
Most of us will eventually come across a season where things just don't work out....Life happens. I hope you won't take seed failures as a sign you must go without color in your garden this year, because if there was a year where you need it, it sounds like this could be that one. Treat yourself to some annuals/snapdragons, 6-packs at the nursery if your own have failed...and don't feel guilty about it. Do not go without a garden this year. No one here is going to blacklist you if all in your garden is not started from seed by you...you can go back to your usual sowing next season when under better circumstances.
And congratulations on that baby!
Just a note, about the morning sickness. Just after my sister had her baby, she heard a news story that made her feel a tiny bit better about her (8 months of) morning sickness. Apparently it's associated with a higher IQ in the baby. What they said on the news (although it's not too scientific) is that there was a 1 point increase in average IQ for every time the mother threw up. So you can look forward to a smart baby. A little off-topic, but you need something to make the morning sickness seem a little more worth it, I would bet. Incidentally, I can't speak to the general truth of the association, but my niece is very, very smart. Not that I'm biased.
As long as they are under the ground they should be Ok. It would have to freeze the ground down to the seeds and I don't think in your area that would happen. They will sprout when the weather warms. Just water them when the weather warms.
The kolirabi and peas will like the cooler weather better than hot.
Don't panic it will be fine
The leaves would be yellow and the plant would fail to thrive.
The top leaves look yellow to me!
Yes, this is a yoghurt conainer (with drainage holes), but the plant is not root-bound. The cucumber that I mentioned is in in a larger container (3 by 3 inches - a real one designed for plants!), and is also not root bound. I am hoping you are right that it is sun/wind damage as these I can control (at least for now) - I much prefer this verdict over hearing that I have a fungus or bacterial infection. So I'll moderate the light exposure & be careful to harden-off gently. Thanks for all the comments!