6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
Thanks everyone.
Yeah I definately know to cover those seeds & at the right depth.
Based on the answers above, can I assume that the seeds i mentioned can then be sprouted without any light exposure (i.e. my growing medium can be in total darkness) as long as proper moisture & temperature is maintained?
also - i have read about not putting my growing medium in direct sun as it will "cook the seeds". but if the air temperature is 55-65 degrees F then does this still hold true? my seeds are in a combination of tiny seed starter pots (with makeshift plastic domes) and some in cardboard egg cartons. From what i've read, optimal temperature for sprouting these particular plants is 75-80 degrees.
Thanks!
It wouldn't hurt if you dowsed the soil of all of them with the fungicide when you transplant. I meant throw out your containers they will be contaminated.
You got off to a bad start for your first time. I hope you try again. A word for further trys at seed starting. Once the seed has become a seedling it does not need as much moisture as it did in germinating. Plant them in 3 oz dixie cups with a good soilless mix Adding perilite helps give the soil good drainage, but there will be some in your mix.Wet the mixture before you put it in the cups. You want it wet right through but not sopping. squeeze a handful and a little moisture should come out but not a lot. Once they are planted let them dry about half way before you water and then bottom water. You can tell by the weight of the container if they need water. It will be light and float when you put it in the water. Letting a plant dry between watering makes the plant put out more roots so you have a healthier plant.
There is not a gardener alive who has not made mistakes or killed plants or started out as a newbie. Our knowledge is gained through trial and error---Good luck
I covered everything last night, but found that a couple places were exposed because the wind knocked the tarp off. So at around 6:30, before the sun poked over the trees, I was out there watering those parts. Seems like they are doing okay. Glad I covered them. It was quite icy.
Why does the grass do so well despite frost??
Kim
Some plants are just made to take the cold and others the heat. Its like tomatoes and broccoli or impatiens and pansies. Tomatoes originally come from a much warmer climate and are not made to defend themselves from the cold, where broccoli and pansies are from colder climates and thrive in cooler weather.
A few answers for you...often fluctuating temperatures will help in germination, as in lower at night than daytime (exceptions might be tropicals). I will often place the pots of seeds that I know are going to take many months to germinate outside on my deck...tucked discreetly among pots containing plants so that I remember to water them.
You can top your seed pots with grit over those seeds that will take a few to many months to germinate, it will discourage moss and algae from forming. Chick grit, horticultural grit, or even fine aquarium gravel from the pet store.
Your seed pots don't need to be under lights until germination begins.
The advantage of the grit is it dries between watering at least on top which is where the algae grows. This greatly helps eliminate algae growth. The soil under the grit remains moist and in most cases those seeds that require months to germinate will survive. Al
Plants CANNOT use blood meal etc.... directly they must first be broken down and converted to a nitrate by bacterial action..... in order for the bacteria to multiply they must have nitrates & phosphates which they get from the soil SOOOOOOOOO there is a shortage of nuitrants for a period of weeks or months then later you get a pay back in nitrates. its no wonder your plants are stunted........
Most of us will eventually come across a season where things just don't work out....Life happens. I hope you won't take seed failures as a sign you must go without color in your garden this year, because if there was a year where you need it, it sounds like this could be that one. Treat yourself to some annuals/snapdragons, 6-packs at the nursery if your own have failed...and don't feel guilty about it. Do not go without a garden this year. No one here is going to blacklist you if all in your garden is not started from seed by you...you can go back to your usual sowing next season when under better circumstances.
And congratulations on that baby!
Just a note, about the morning sickness. Just after my sister had her baby, she heard a news story that made her feel a tiny bit better about her (8 months of) morning sickness. Apparently it's associated with a higher IQ in the baby. What they said on the news (although it's not too scientific) is that there was a 1 point increase in average IQ for every time the mother threw up. So you can look forward to a smart baby. A little off-topic, but you need something to make the morning sickness seem a little more worth it, I would bet. Incidentally, I can't speak to the general truth of the association, but my niece is very, very smart. Not that I'm biased.
As long as they are under the ground they should be Ok. It would have to freeze the ground down to the seeds and I don't think in your area that would happen. They will sprout when the weather warms. Just water them when the weather warms.
The kolirabi and peas will like the cooler weather better than hot.
Don't panic it will be fine
Agree with all of the above info although I don't find that germination rates of properly stored seed declines by more than 5-6% per year. With few exceptions, 2007 seed, properly stored, should still be quite viable. It definitely wouldn't be considered old seed.
But when we have poor results it is so much easier for us to blame the seeds or blame the potting mix when in truth, most of the problem causes are us - the growers. We insist on too much water or not enough soil heat or failing to scarify or stratify or most commonly, insisting on indoor germination when direct seeding is best. ;)
The germination needs of so many seeds are very diverse so it is best to research the needs of each variety for the best results.
The many FAQs here on this forum (front page in blue link) cover hundreds of varieties and if you Google 'seed germination database' you'll find lots of help.
Dave
The information on this database is reliable, a good one to keep bookmarked. Most of the suggestions are for dried stored (i.e. commercial) seed - in some instances seed sown freshly harvested may have different requirements.
Here is a link that might be useful: Clothiers database
The peppers - pinch off the blooms and they will do fine. The cukes however will most likely stunt. I would start new ones of them or better yet plan to just direct seed them - that works best anyway.
Members of that family if transplanted with more than just 1 true leaf produce poorly throughout the season.
Dave
A plant is programmed to grow and produce seeds. The leader--top--is boss and the good goes to it to produce seeds. What's left over goes to the branches. If you remove the top leaves and a bit of the stem the plant goes into survival mode and produces lots of stems so it can do what it is programmed to do and produce seeds. These stems unlike the leader are all equal and the good is divided equally to them all, so you get a bushy plant.
Sometimes when we deadhead we do this naturally. Like with Marigolds. Remove the top flower after it dies and you are pinching it back and it produces more branches and as a consequence more flowers.
Your azaleas are beautiful, I've seen the photos :)
Here's the directions for your talented DH, he might just get some interesting crosses. It looks a little wordy but is fairly straightforward, just some warmth and moisture, along with a little patience for these slow growing shrubs needed. Don't cover the seeds, just wet them down to make good contact with the sowing medium. And I'm glad to see you able to turn your thoughts back to gardening, dear friend!
Azalea Society of America -
Azaleas grow readily from seed. The seed pods are plainly visible soon after the flowers drop, and become larger over the summer, eventually turning dark brown, splitting open, and dropping the seed on the ground. Only very rarely will the conditions be right for the seed to germinate and grow in the garden. Instead, collect the seed pods before they open, and grow the seed under controlled conditions. Collect the seed pods as they begin to turn brown, usually around the time of the first frost in the fall.
Put the pods of one variety into one container, such as an envelope or a small paper muffin cup, and mark it with the variety. After a few weeks, the pods will split and begin to spill out their seed, as many as 500 seeds per pod (My note: they are almost like dust!). Clean the seed by separating it from the pod and other debris.
Prepare some flats by putting a mixture of sand and peat or leaf mold or perlite to within about an inch of the top, and covering it with a half inch or so of milled sphagnum moss. Soak it until it is thoroughly wet, and let it drain out the excess water. It may be convenient to soak it separately in a tub of water, and fill the flat with handfuls of the mixture squeezed free of excess water. The plastic containers used by supermarkets for pastry and salads, about three inches high and various widths and lengths, are ideal for small quantities of seedlings.
Sow the seed in the winter, indoors, to give the seedlings as much time as possible before being subjected to outdoor winter temperatures. Broadcast it over the flat and mist it lightly to settle the seeds. Cover the flat tightly with plastic, and put it under artificial lights or on a north window sill. The seed will germinate in two to six weeks, depending on the variety.
When the seedlings have developed two sets of leaves, carefully transplant them into other flats filled with a similar mixture of sand and peat or leaf mold or perlite. Use a toothpick or similar fine instrument to remove a seedling, and to plant it into the new flat. Use a two or three inch spacing, as they will probably stay in this flat for a year or more. When the flat is filled, water the seedlings with a fine spray to settle the soil around the roots. Cover it with plastic, and place it under lights or on a north facing window sill, or outdoors in the shade if the weather is reliably above freezing. After a few days, the seedlings should be established and the plastic can be removed. Fertilize with very weak solutions of liquid fertilizer to maintain active growth.
After they have grown a year, the seedlings are ready to be potted up or planted out. The soil should be almost a solid mass of fine roots, and the soil can be cut into squares rather than trying to find out which roots go with which plant. They are quite tender, and should be given ample water and ample shade.
You guys are great, thanks for the advice. And thanks for pointing out the FAQ's, for some reason I hadn't even noticed that. There is a lot of info that will help.
As a professor, I know that answering the same questions over and over from beginners can get tedious.
I grow mine in full sun in a garden with not so good soil, they do need plenty of water. I usually fertilize everything with liquid fert. every other week. I have never noticed the color being less vibrant....but then again I have never tried growing them in shade! If you have extra seed, why don't you try a couple in the shade too, if you have a place? That would be a good experiment, and you'll have to let me know the outcome if you try!
I grow mine in full sun in a garden with not so good soil, they do need plenty of water. I usually fertilize everything with liquid fert. every other week. I have never noticed the color being less vibrant....but then again I have never tried growing them in shade! If you have extra seed, why don't you try a couple in the shade too, if you have a place? That would be a good experiment, and you'll have to let me know the outcome if you try!