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My Very First ZinniaThis is my very first ZINNIA plant
Posted by nightnurse21 April 24, 2010
2 Comments
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davemichigan(zone 6a (SE Michigan))

Isn't it great? I like the color. What variety is this?

    Bookmark     April 24, 2010 at 9:32PM
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nightnurse21

same zinnia,now more open,in mixed pack not sure what names is

    Bookmark     April 28, 2010 at 12:29PM
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sleepy33(5b KS)

Ok, since you say 'dry' in quotes like that, I assume you mean...not dry? Just comparatively drier than the outer cells? Assuming you started with seed starting mix that you thoroughly wet and then squeezed the excess water out of before filling the cells.

    Bookmark     April 27, 2010 at 3:26PM
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susan2010(6 Massachusetts)

I've always had really good luck starting peppers (nearly 100% germination). I use a heat mat and a humidity dome, but I always prop the dome open a bit to let air circulate. I keep them dark until the first seeds begin to germinate, then I take them off the heat mat and put them under lights. It can take a while for stragglers to catch up, so be patient. I had one variety (Yolo Wonder, I think) take almost double the time of the others I planted. But even they eventually sprouted.

    Bookmark     April 27, 2010 at 3:28PM
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sleepy33(5b KS)

Boy, I'd sure check out the FAQ here if I was you. I hope you didn't spend much on your 'grow light kit', a $10 shop light from Home Depot would've done. See FAQ for more details and watering info, or search for many past discussions.

    Bookmark     April 27, 2010 at 12:45PM
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jonhughes(So.Oregon)

Hi Phil,
Make sure your lights are touching the seedlings (if not touching,at least as close as you can get), and they will do fine ;-)

Water whenever they are dry,more trouble comes from overwatering ,than from underwatering....

    Bookmark     April 27, 2010 at 1:19PM
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jonhughes(So.Oregon)

Hi Kim ;-)

I also grew mine indoors (and they do get a little leggy,even when touching the lights),I have never winter sowed them (I might try that next year), but I think the only difference between yours and mine is ,I put mine in the garden a couple of weeks ago, and you are still waiting for "the perfect time" to set them out,but if what these other guys are telling you is correct,PLANT THEM OUTSIDE NOW ;-)

    Bookmark     April 27, 2010 at 12:51PM
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heirloomjunkie(5a)

I just direct sewed my chard seeds today. I am going to see how the seedlings inside do, and use them as my back up. I don't know why I just didn't direct seed in the first place. :P

Kim

    Bookmark     April 27, 2010 at 12:54PM
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dicot

Byron has a point, but I can't imagine why he would use black tea instead of chammomile, which has better anti-fungal properties and is cheaper in bulk. And I still prefer 3% peroxide until germination, then tea afterwards.

    Bookmark     April 26, 2010 at 7:57PM
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vschlaff

Dicot, how do you germinte with the peroxide? Thx, Ginny

    Bookmark     April 27, 2010 at 9:50AM
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karyn1(7a)

I've grown the kind you get from the grocery store, the green and gold varieties. They are easy to grow but I gave all of them away after the first year since they aren't cold hardy and have no idea how they did afterwards. I don't know if the cold hardy varieties are as easy to grow from seed or if they need a chilling period. You need both male and female plants for fruit production.

I just cleaned the pulp from the seeds and pressed them into moist potting mix. I covered the pot and kept it warm. The seeds germinated fairly quickly. I transplanted to individual pots when they had a couple sets of true leaves.

    Bookmark     April 27, 2010 at 7:54AM
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tomatela

thanks for the responses, I know that they didn't touch the lights because I keep them at 3" to 4" above them, the only thing I'm thinking is that I left the fan on for too long on one day after I water them and the temperature was at 55? I only have 4 of this seedlings with the leaf problem out of the 24 I have growing. I just don't want it to spread if is some kind of virus.

    Bookmark     April 26, 2010 at 8:52PM
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sarahbarah27(5)

If you are really worried about it, and I tend to get worried:) I would just get rid of the problem ones. Since you have so many anyway, they probably won't be missed.

    Bookmark     April 27, 2010 at 7:34AM
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heirloomjunkie(5a)

Coooool!

    Bookmark     April 26, 2010 at 7:17PM
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karyn1(7a)

Wow! I guess it's safe to say that my year old lotus seeds should still be viable. lol

    Bookmark     April 26, 2010 at 9:25PM
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heirloomjunkie(5a)

How cute! Are you planning to separate and transplant, or thin like crazy? I'm going to try more greens next year. They look like fun.

Kim

    Bookmark     April 26, 2010 at 9:00PM
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missanissa_z4

I'm a lurker in this forum but I thought I'd introduce myself. I'm Anissa, 33, from MN. This is my second year gardening and growing from seed. I'm using a light set up in my basement as well as wintersowing lots of stuff on my deck. I'm growing annuals, perennials, vegetables, herbs. I currently have more seedlings than I will have room to plant in my little yard. I can't walk past a seed rack without buying something.

I've learned so much from this forum (as well as others) so thank you everyone for all the helpful advice!

    Bookmark     April 26, 2010 at 1:29PM
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keriann_lakegeneva(5B WI/IL border)

Hi Cheri: How exciting to grow your own fruit, that sounds like so much fun!

Hi Anissa: Welcome and thanks for posting! I bet many of your friends are excited you have too many seedlings : )

Keriann~

    Bookmark     April 26, 2010 at 1:32PM
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karyn1(7a)

If the passiflora seeds have been dried for any length of time a soaking in a mild acid solution like OJ will help remove germination inhibitors but there is absolutely no reason to nick a passie seed coat. The seed coat is permeable to air.

    Bookmark     April 26, 2010 at 8:08AM
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taz6122(N.W. AR.6b)

I planted several seeds and got no germination. After digging and finding only one seed I scarified it and it germinated. Maybe it was coincidence but I will scarify all my passie seeds in the future.

    Bookmark     April 26, 2010 at 9:58AM
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keriann_lakegeneva(5B WI/IL border)

The seedlings really really stink in my seedling room but it has never 'offended' me outside though.

The seeds are the most posionous especially their pods they develope in mid spring. If you want more flowers snap off the pods (and toss) and then late in the season let them mature (dry) on the plant and you will have hunreds of seeds for next year :)

What kind did you get?

And where did your friend have them planted? I am still trying to find the best spot up here in zone 5. Most of the posters in the Brug forum are from the South.

Keriann~

    Bookmark     April 24, 2010 at 9:48AM
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karyn1(7a)

It depends on which type of datura you are planting. Some are cold hardy and others like the metel varieties aren't. The cold hardy varieties usually sprout quickly but the fancy varieties can have very erratic germination rates. Some may sprout within a week and others can take a couple months. It helps to soak the seeds in water overnight before sowing. Some people also use a diluted hydrogen peroxide solution for soaking. I grow brugs and dats and find most daturas have either no scent or a nice fragrance. Both are toxic and have long history of shamanic use in South America. If you have extremely sensitive skin you should handle the plants with gloves (not needed for handling seeds) and make sure you don't get the sap in your eye. It will cause your pupil to dilate. Most people don't suffer any reaction from handling the plants and I pinch them back with bare hands as do most of the others I know that grow them.

1 Like    Bookmark     April 26, 2010 at 8:21AM
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oilpainter(3)

They don't need any fertilizer right now until they develop more leaves. Right now they have tiny little roots that couldn't take in fertilizer anyway and you will do more harm than good fertilizing them. Wait until they have their second set of leaves and then fertilize with a weak solution. Just after transplanting time is a good time to give them their first weak 1/4 strength fertilizer.

I am not a big fan of peat pellets or jiffy pots. You are going to have to be careful you don't overwater now that they have sprouted. Get yourself some colored plastic, paper or foam cups and punch holes in the bottom for drainage if you don't have pots.

When they have their second set of leaves then peel off the outer covering of the peat pellets (it won't decompose) and transplant. If you do use the jiffy strips, peel it off too before you set them outside.

    Bookmark     April 26, 2010 at 4:39AM
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oilpainter(3)

search through heitloom seed sites. The blue potato is a heritage plant. If you find one then keep a couple of potatoes for seed next year

    Bookmark     April 25, 2010 at 9:29PM
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davemichigan(zone 6a (SE Michigan))

The seeds need stratification, so you will need to put them on moist vermiculite or perlite, and then put in a ziplog bag and store in the refrigerator for about a month. After a month, take them out and start them either indoor or outdoor.

I remember starting mine around March, and I got flowers that same year. Now it is a little late. I am not sure if they will bloom this year; but if they don't, they will come back and be ready for next year.

I put some in a jar with damp vermiculite and stored it in the fridge for about a month.

Then I put the seeds in a tofu box with vermiculite, and I left it in a room indoor.

And I got some seedlings in April:

Since that was my first time, I thought I would do some experiment with different methods, so I also put some like this in a milk container:

And I covered it and left it in my unheated garage. I got good germination this way too. But I started in March. Now your garage is probably too warm.

And the result that year:

    Bookmark     April 24, 2010 at 1:51AM
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redthreaddiy(6a MI)

You have helped TREMENDOUSLY! Thank you for all of the photos! I will give this method a try!!

    Bookmark     April 24, 2010 at 9:49PM
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