6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
thanks for the responses, I know that they didn't touch the lights because I keep them at 3" to 4" above them, the only thing I'm thinking is that I left the fan on for too long on one day after I water them and the temperature was at 55? I only have 4 of this seedlings with the leaf problem out of the 24 I have growing. I just don't want it to spread if is some kind of virus.
I'm a lurker in this forum but I thought I'd introduce myself. I'm Anissa, 33, from MN. This is my second year gardening and growing from seed. I'm using a light set up in my basement as well as wintersowing lots of stuff on my deck. I'm growing annuals, perennials, vegetables, herbs. I currently have more seedlings than I will have room to plant in my little yard. I can't walk past a seed rack without buying something.
I've learned so much from this forum (as well as others) so thank you everyone for all the helpful advice!
The seedlings really really stink in my seedling room but it has never 'offended' me outside though.
The seeds are the most posionous especially their pods they develope in mid spring. If you want more flowers snap off the pods (and toss) and then late in the season let them mature (dry) on the plant and you will have hunreds of seeds for next year :)
What kind did you get?
And where did your friend have them planted? I am still trying to find the best spot up here in zone 5. Most of the posters in the Brug forum are from the South.
Keriann~
It depends on which type of datura you are planting. Some are cold hardy and others like the metel varieties aren't. The cold hardy varieties usually sprout quickly but the fancy varieties can have very erratic germination rates. Some may sprout within a week and others can take a couple months. It helps to soak the seeds in water overnight before sowing. Some people also use a diluted hydrogen peroxide solution for soaking. I grow brugs and dats and find most daturas have either no scent or a nice fragrance. Both are toxic and have long history of shamanic use in South America. If you have extremely sensitive skin you should handle the plants with gloves (not needed for handling seeds) and make sure you don't get the sap in your eye. It will cause your pupil to dilate. Most people don't suffer any reaction from handling the plants and I pinch them back with bare hands as do most of the others I know that grow them.
They don't need any fertilizer right now until they develop more leaves. Right now they have tiny little roots that couldn't take in fertilizer anyway and you will do more harm than good fertilizing them. Wait until they have their second set of leaves and then fertilize with a weak solution. Just after transplanting time is a good time to give them their first weak 1/4 strength fertilizer.
I am not a big fan of peat pellets or jiffy pots. You are going to have to be careful you don't overwater now that they have sprouted. Get yourself some colored plastic, paper or foam cups and punch holes in the bottom for drainage if you don't have pots.
When they have their second set of leaves then peel off the outer covering of the peat pellets (it won't decompose) and transplant. If you do use the jiffy strips, peel it off too before you set them outside.
The seeds need stratification, so you will need to put them on moist vermiculite or perlite, and then put in a ziplog bag and store in the refrigerator for about a month. After a month, take them out and start them either indoor or outdoor.
I remember starting mine around March, and I got flowers that same year. Now it is a little late. I am not sure if they will bloom this year; but if they don't, they will come back and be ready for next year.
I put some in a jar with damp vermiculite and stored it in the fridge for about a month.
Then I put the seeds in a tofu box with vermiculite, and I left it in a room indoor.
And I got some seedlings in April:
Since that was my first time, I thought I would do some experiment with different methods, so I also put some like this in a milk container:
And I covered it and left it in my unheated garage. I got good germination this way too. But I started in March. Now your garage is probably too warm.
And the result that year:
No, I think you need to take them out of the refrigerator and leave them at room temp for 2 - 4 weeks to mimic Fall...still warmish and rains have started. (First: 64-71F for 2-4 wks)
Then put them into the refer. Approx 40F is cold enough, very few seeds need to actually freeze, most will not be going through the conditioning process until they are not quite so cold so don't use your freezer.
The third stage is the one that is difficult for me indoors...I don't have a good place to achieve that 50ishF range and have to try to time it for late winter-earliest Spring here when I can put the pots outside.
My two mature plants that I bought 4 years ago are now 3-4' round and I taken cuttings to make over 30 other plants. They cuttings are about 2-3' round.
I love them. They keep their neat shape, won't 'take-over', tough plants in regards to no sub. water and light foot traffic ... and you can divide like crazy as stated above.
Keriann~
Both types can self sow in the right conditions if not deadheaded - I leave the seed pods on my tree peony for additional interest and often get volunteer seedlings around it. If you want to keep the seedlings, be patient - it can take a few years before they begin to flower.
oilpainter,
Not quite true. The mix is only about 1", maybe 1.5" deep. I soak them, to the point water is visible on the top. They do not sit on a heat mat nor have a fan blowing on them. I'm not saying they need to sit in water, only stay more moist than most seedlings do.
YMMV,
Mike
I've grown the kind you get from the grocery store, the green and gold varieties. They are easy to grow but I gave all of them away after the first year since they aren't cold hardy and have no idea how they did afterwards. I don't know if the cold hardy varieties are as easy to grow from seed or if they need a chilling period. You need both male and female plants for fruit production.
I just cleaned the pulp from the seeds and pressed them into moist potting mix. I covered the pot and kept it warm. The seeds germinated fairly quickly. I transplanted to individual pots when they had a couple sets of true leaves.