6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
The seedlings really really stink in my seedling room but it has never 'offended' me outside though.
The seeds are the most posionous especially their pods they develope in mid spring. If you want more flowers snap off the pods (and toss) and then late in the season let them mature (dry) on the plant and you will have hunreds of seeds for next year :)
What kind did you get?
And where did your friend have them planted? I am still trying to find the best spot up here in zone 5. Most of the posters in the Brug forum are from the South.
Keriann~
It depends on which type of datura you are planting. Some are cold hardy and others like the metel varieties aren't. The cold hardy varieties usually sprout quickly but the fancy varieties can have very erratic germination rates. Some may sprout within a week and others can take a couple months. It helps to soak the seeds in water overnight before sowing. Some people also use a diluted hydrogen peroxide solution for soaking. I grow brugs and dats and find most daturas have either no scent or a nice fragrance. Both are toxic and have long history of shamanic use in South America. If you have extremely sensitive skin you should handle the plants with gloves (not needed for handling seeds) and make sure you don't get the sap in your eye. It will cause your pupil to dilate. Most people don't suffer any reaction from handling the plants and I pinch them back with bare hands as do most of the others I know that grow them.
They don't need any fertilizer right now until they develop more leaves. Right now they have tiny little roots that couldn't take in fertilizer anyway and you will do more harm than good fertilizing them. Wait until they have their second set of leaves and then fertilize with a weak solution. Just after transplanting time is a good time to give them their first weak 1/4 strength fertilizer.
I am not a big fan of peat pellets or jiffy pots. You are going to have to be careful you don't overwater now that they have sprouted. Get yourself some colored plastic, paper or foam cups and punch holes in the bottom for drainage if you don't have pots.
When they have their second set of leaves then peel off the outer covering of the peat pellets (it won't decompose) and transplant. If you do use the jiffy strips, peel it off too before you set them outside.
The seeds need stratification, so you will need to put them on moist vermiculite or perlite, and then put in a ziplog bag and store in the refrigerator for about a month. After a month, take them out and start them either indoor or outdoor.
I remember starting mine around March, and I got flowers that same year. Now it is a little late. I am not sure if they will bloom this year; but if they don't, they will come back and be ready for next year.
I put some in a jar with damp vermiculite and stored it in the fridge for about a month.
Then I put the seeds in a tofu box with vermiculite, and I left it in a room indoor.
And I got some seedlings in April:
Since that was my first time, I thought I would do some experiment with different methods, so I also put some like this in a milk container:
And I covered it and left it in my unheated garage. I got good germination this way too. But I started in March. Now your garage is probably too warm.
And the result that year:
No, I think you need to take them out of the refrigerator and leave them at room temp for 2 - 4 weeks to mimic Fall...still warmish and rains have started. (First: 64-71F for 2-4 wks)
Then put them into the refer. Approx 40F is cold enough, very few seeds need to actually freeze, most will not be going through the conditioning process until they are not quite so cold so don't use your freezer.
The third stage is the one that is difficult for me indoors...I don't have a good place to achieve that 50ishF range and have to try to time it for late winter-earliest Spring here when I can put the pots outside.
My two mature plants that I bought 4 years ago are now 3-4' round and I taken cuttings to make over 30 other plants. They cuttings are about 2-3' round.
I love them. They keep their neat shape, won't 'take-over', tough plants in regards to no sub. water and light foot traffic ... and you can divide like crazy as stated above.
Keriann~
Both types can self sow in the right conditions if not deadheaded - I leave the seed pods on my tree peony for additional interest and often get volunteer seedlings around it. If you want to keep the seedlings, be patient - it can take a few years before they begin to flower.
oilpainter,
Not quite true. The mix is only about 1", maybe 1.5" deep. I soak them, to the point water is visible on the top. They do not sit on a heat mat nor have a fan blowing on them. I'm not saying they need to sit in water, only stay more moist than most seedlings do.
YMMV,
Mike
Kim you are so right... crazy bright! Too bad the bulbs don't make you tan.. I would move everything into the bedroom lol :)
I have had luck separating seedlings by getting them really wet and 'washing' off the soil. If you really want to save the plants it is messy and takes time but I have found it works out the best in the long run.
You must really love peppers :)
Keriann~
Yes there are several open pollinated varieties with PL - Stupice, Matina, German Johnson, Caspian Pink, Pruden's Purple, Grandpa Charlie are a few I can think of off-hand that I have grown although there are many others. Brandy Boy is the only hybrid that comes to mind off the top of my head.
There are other leaf variations too - rugrose, angora, etc. Good pics in the FAQ on Tomato Leaf shapes.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Tomato Leaf FAQ
Thanks for the advice! I started these last week, so they haven't developed any true leaves yet. I'll direct sow some in May to be sure to have some. Thanks! How about the cucumber and melons, are they part of the squash family also? Should I direct sow them?
Should I direct sow them?
Yes. You can start them inside but be sure to get them into the garden ASAP and start them in a container where they can remain until the garden. Avoid the interim transplanting if possible. They are best direct-seeded however.
Dave
try this one
Here is a link that might be useful: Flower 2010
Hi sleepy33
Well I want out last week and took some pictures of my poppies and a lot of other tress and flowers everything that was blooming. I had to go out a take a few more this week.
I hope I helped you a little
di
Here is a link that might be useful: Look whats blooming
If the passiflora seeds have been dried for any length of time a soaking in a mild acid solution like OJ will help remove germination inhibitors but there is absolutely no reason to nick a passie seed coat. The seed coat is permeable to air.
I planted several seeds and got no germination. After digging and finding only one seed I scarified it and it germinated. Maybe it was coincidence but I will scarify all my passie seeds in the future.