6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
Nice! These are really similar to morning glories, right? They look a lot alike, aside from the color. I just had a few morning glories sprout, and was amazed how fast they grew. In just three days, they were the same height as the tomato plants that had been growing for two weeks. I can't wait to see the flowers!
Kim
Hi Kim,
Yep! They are very similar to morning glories except for the flower size and they are fragrant! They smell wonderful! What color are your morning glories? I planted mine outside the same day I started the moonflowers inside. The MGs I'm growing are Burpee's Best Mix (purples. pinks and white) and Heavenly Blue (also Burpee).
Brad AKA Moonwolf
Keriann- Your dad was a smart man; he could have bought a new lawnmower every year and still come out way ahead! Horses are great, but showing is expensive.
Nutsaboutflowers- uh huh, suuuuure you were. Just lights. Mmmhmmm. Just kidding. :) My husband keeps telling me I'm going to get a visit from the cops to see what I'm growing with all my lights. Oh, and my hydroponics store smells weird too- they sell these really strong odor-absorber air freshener things. Gee whiz, I wonder why a gardening store would have such a big display of air fresheners?? I was thinking when I was there that if I was a cop, I'd sit outside that place all day and see who their big customers were... :)
Thank you also for your replies, sleepy33 and oilpainter!
To sleepy33 --
Interestingly enough, I started my "unique" method of watering after being dissatisfied by regular bottom-watering, as you described. My problem is that my seedlings are growing in my crawl space (which is finished, if you can believe that)! But it's still probably a breeding ground for mold. So when I bottom-watered the cells until the top of the soil started becoming moist, they wouldn't dry out fast enough in time to prevent mold growth. Mold sprouts in that darn crawl space in a matter of, like, 12 hours. It's ridiculous! Even a fan doesn't seem to help.
So I started using the spray bottle, because I knew it would saturate the bottom layer of soil quickly (and hopefully seep upward gently after the watering) and never reach the topmost layer of soil. So far it's worked pretty well -- I haven't seen too much mold in a while. But I realize I'm also no expert!
Do you think that if I maintain my current watering system, but simply start watering less (until a substantial chunk of soil is dry), that I might be successful in preventing root rot or any other maladies? I'm just so afraid to go back to the "normal" method of bottom-watering, because it only led to mounds of mold in my seedling trays. :(
And oilpainter --
Yes, I made sure to water first before fertilizing. Luckily I knew that much! lol.
Thanks again to all three of you for your advice. If you have any other thoughts, please share! And I'll definitely keep you updated. :)
It depends on so many factors.
The reason we harden off is because the seedlings cannot take the intense sunlight after being inside their whole life or the wind because they have been sheltered inside.
Your plants will tell you when they are ready for the elements.
Do they stand up straight or bounce right back from wind? And do they look happy in full sun (if they are full-sun plants)
If yes, they are ready for their final homes.
This may take 1 day of 10 days depending on who, what, where and why.
You will know your plants the best.
Keriann~
I am tomatoes only in dry hot Colorado. I use a large dripper, 12 inches apart on each plant. Last year went great every other day, but I did get some rings to indicate that I needed to water every day in hot weather, 90 to 100 degrees. My soil is very, very sandy and I have to live with it. I use the large drippers to reduce clogging with unfiltered city water, and manualy operate them. Like 15 minutes gives 1 gal water to each plant.
Each year I try more things but this seems to work the best for me. what worked before was PVC pipe with tiny holes at each plant, what I called a "dribbler" system. Soil is too sandy to use ditch watering.
Oh yea, one year I tried sprinklers on tomatoes..never again. Every disease in the book.
Have fun KennyP
Taz, I'm sure the soil here could do with amending; many spots, it's pure Kansas clay. But it's a rental, and I'm not putting that much effort/$ into it. It is mulched. Also, I'm speaking of plants I've put out relatively recently, so they aren't, strictly speaking, 'mature' plants. I imagine they'll be able to hold out a bit longer as their roots develop further. I agree with you, when I had my drip irrigation system set up, that was the way to go.
kerriann:
I buy my pro mix from my local greenhouse nursery--one that grows it's own plants, but sells other garden related things too. I just got a bag yesterday. You might try one in your area. I know they do sell it in smaller bags but the cost is out of this world compared to what I pay. I'll bet if you do some calling around you would find it. I've also seen it for sale on line.
I use MG potting soil/Perlite/Sand for just about everything. I mix in different ratios depending on the individual plant. For peppers my ratio is 4/2/1. They might do just as good in a 4/1/2 ratio but I fear that 2 parts sand might hinder the drainage some.
I'd try fertilizing half of them, see what that does. I always just go ahead and soak the roots with my diluted fertilizer mix; my understanding is, as long as you have the right ratio of water to fertilizer, the amount of fertilizer+water that you add doesn't matter. For example, I fertilize with fish emulsion. I measure the tablespoon or whatever of emulsion in the gallon jug of water, mix, and then I pour it in a seedling flat and bottom water as I normally would. Once the cups are good and heavy/full of water, I take them out. I usually rotate several flats of seedlings through that one batch of fertilizer+water until it's all been soaked up (in the course of a couple of hours, I don't let it sit around or anything, stinky!!). Hope that helps, someone else chime in if I'm incorrect in my thinking.
Sleepy is right on the money.
I use 1/4 of what is stated (on the fert. conatiner) what I first start fertilizing. so if they say one tbsp per gallon I would use 1/4 once a week. I do not pre-water and then add fert. It is one process once a week and if they need water between that, I use plain water. I also use a 1/8 mix all of they time (everytime I water) with great results. The fert. is already in my watering lines in the greenhouse so it is easier to remember weak everytime than once a week stronger.
Most of my seedlings are mature now so they get full strength once a week
Keriann~
You can not save seeds to make bolt tolerant varieties, unless you do like the plant breeders do. They pick 2 that are naturally that way. Hand pollinate one plant with the other. Make sure that plant is not pollinated with any other. Then grow the seed. Out of the hundreds of seeds sown maybe a very few will have that tendancy from the parent plants. They are pollinated again in the same controlled way and after many pollinations and growing they may get a plant or 2 that has the characteristics they are after. This is called hybridization.
Heritage plants are old varieties of plants and are the most likely to reproduce exactly as the parent plant from saved seeds, but there is no guarantee with them either.
Now if a hybrid plant is grown and pollinated naturally. Some plants may be the same but most will be some form of both parent plants. Yes they will flower and react like other plants, but you never know just what the finished plant will be or look like.
Your best bet if you want slow bolt varieties is to buy the seeds that are bred for just this quality and the best way to know is to buy from a reputable seed companies catalogue. Catalogues are not just for buying seeds but will also give you info on their varieties of seeds.
where r u at Brad?
I got some great hits on my Moonflowers, I have 22 seedling resting on my desk as I type, Im just not sure I trust my soil for them.
I have to do some more reading in here, but I think Ill pot them vs. planting them in the ground. I feel like I have more control over their welfare that way. Im a dork that way. :)
Soozeesully, I'm in Central PA and I live in a valley out in the country. It's beautiful here but it can get very cold in the winter and extremely hot in the summer. They're calling for thunderstorms tommorrow and a chance of snow on Sat! Mom and I direct sowed some seeds today. I did morning glories this morning and cup and saucer vines just a few minutes ago. I did moonflowers too but I'm starting them in a plastic baggie with a moist paper towel.
I did an experiment earlier with a single MF seed and it worked. I may do more next week.
Brad AKA Moonwolf
Great job! What kind are they? 'Moonflower' can be used to describe a lot of different flowers such as morning glories to daturas.
FYI for next time, the dome should have come off on April 9th when they germinated.
I would get them under shop lights. Lights should be between 1-3" away from the top of them to keep them stocky and not stretching for the light.
Temps: 50-60 is ideal, but warmer wont kill them, maybe make them a little leggy.
I would transplant them into 16 oz cups or 3-4" pots. This will help build a stronger root system and watering will be easier in a larger container.
I would bottom water once the top 3/4 is dry, do not keep them moist. Constant moisture promotes dampening off and a weak/shallow root system. I would fertilize with a 1/4 solution once a week as well.
.......depending on exactly what moonflower you are talking about, you can't plant them until may 15th or after your last frost date. Plant them in full sun and amend the soil with some organic material.
I hope that helps.
Keriann~
I had a bit of green 'stuff' on my soil line. It was not slimy, looked more like really bright moss. This was showing when teh plants were very young still. I can't say if we have the same green 'stuff' but mine was harmless. I did do what oilpainter suggested with increasing airflow but it did not go away. It dissapeared when my petunias got larger and blocked the light to the top of the soil line.
This had no effect on my petunias, they are now about 8" tall and 24" across.
Keriann~
It's likely algae and shouldn't hurt your seedlings. Do not spray with bleach, the ph of household bleach is somewhere around 11 and would be fatal to plants. Water less, increase air circulation around your trays. You must be close to being able to put your seedlings outdoors to begin to harden them off, just that step alone should resolve the problem.
I had some lettuce volunteer very early in spring (I should be able to eat it shortly), as long as you have regular rain it should come up on its own. Don't let it dry out if it's in a planter...
In your zone and in an uninsulated container, I would imagine the seeds froze. The embryo cells would then have ruptured when it thawed killing the seed. I honestly doubt you'll get any germination. But yes, if you want to continue the experiment, keep the soil moist but not wet.
Once the soil temp in the container is consistently up to 40 you should see germination with 10-14 days. If not then it's time to move on. ;)
Dave