6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
I am tomatoes only in dry hot Colorado. I use a large dripper, 12 inches apart on each plant. Last year went great every other day, but I did get some rings to indicate that I needed to water every day in hot weather, 90 to 100 degrees. My soil is very, very sandy and I have to live with it. I use the large drippers to reduce clogging with unfiltered city water, and manualy operate them. Like 15 minutes gives 1 gal water to each plant.
Each year I try more things but this seems to work the best for me. what worked before was PVC pipe with tiny holes at each plant, what I called a "dribbler" system. Soil is too sandy to use ditch watering.
Oh yea, one year I tried sprinklers on tomatoes..never again. Every disease in the book.
Have fun KennyP
Taz, I'm sure the soil here could do with amending; many spots, it's pure Kansas clay. But it's a rental, and I'm not putting that much effort/$ into it. It is mulched. Also, I'm speaking of plants I've put out relatively recently, so they aren't, strictly speaking, 'mature' plants. I imagine they'll be able to hold out a bit longer as their roots develop further. I agree with you, when I had my drip irrigation system set up, that was the way to go.
kerriann:
I buy my pro mix from my local greenhouse nursery--one that grows it's own plants, but sells other garden related things too. I just got a bag yesterday. You might try one in your area. I know they do sell it in smaller bags but the cost is out of this world compared to what I pay. I'll bet if you do some calling around you would find it. I've also seen it for sale on line.
I use MG potting soil/Perlite/Sand for just about everything. I mix in different ratios depending on the individual plant. For peppers my ratio is 4/2/1. They might do just as good in a 4/1/2 ratio but I fear that 2 parts sand might hinder the drainage some.
I'd try fertilizing half of them, see what that does. I always just go ahead and soak the roots with my diluted fertilizer mix; my understanding is, as long as you have the right ratio of water to fertilizer, the amount of fertilizer+water that you add doesn't matter. For example, I fertilize with fish emulsion. I measure the tablespoon or whatever of emulsion in the gallon jug of water, mix, and then I pour it in a seedling flat and bottom water as I normally would. Once the cups are good and heavy/full of water, I take them out. I usually rotate several flats of seedlings through that one batch of fertilizer+water until it's all been soaked up (in the course of a couple of hours, I don't let it sit around or anything, stinky!!). Hope that helps, someone else chime in if I'm incorrect in my thinking.
Sleepy is right on the money.
I use 1/4 of what is stated (on the fert. conatiner) what I first start fertilizing. so if they say one tbsp per gallon I would use 1/4 once a week. I do not pre-water and then add fert. It is one process once a week and if they need water between that, I use plain water. I also use a 1/8 mix all of they time (everytime I water) with great results. The fert. is already in my watering lines in the greenhouse so it is easier to remember weak everytime than once a week stronger.
Most of my seedlings are mature now so they get full strength once a week
Keriann~
You can not save seeds to make bolt tolerant varieties, unless you do like the plant breeders do. They pick 2 that are naturally that way. Hand pollinate one plant with the other. Make sure that plant is not pollinated with any other. Then grow the seed. Out of the hundreds of seeds sown maybe a very few will have that tendancy from the parent plants. They are pollinated again in the same controlled way and after many pollinations and growing they may get a plant or 2 that has the characteristics they are after. This is called hybridization.
Heritage plants are old varieties of plants and are the most likely to reproduce exactly as the parent plant from saved seeds, but there is no guarantee with them either.
Now if a hybrid plant is grown and pollinated naturally. Some plants may be the same but most will be some form of both parent plants. Yes they will flower and react like other plants, but you never know just what the finished plant will be or look like.
Your best bet if you want slow bolt varieties is to buy the seeds that are bred for just this quality and the best way to know is to buy from a reputable seed companies catalogue. Catalogues are not just for buying seeds but will also give you info on their varieties of seeds.
where r u at Brad?
I got some great hits on my Moonflowers, I have 22 seedling resting on my desk as I type, Im just not sure I trust my soil for them.
I have to do some more reading in here, but I think Ill pot them vs. planting them in the ground. I feel like I have more control over their welfare that way. Im a dork that way. :)
Soozeesully, I'm in Central PA and I live in a valley out in the country. It's beautiful here but it can get very cold in the winter and extremely hot in the summer. They're calling for thunderstorms tommorrow and a chance of snow on Sat! Mom and I direct sowed some seeds today. I did morning glories this morning and cup and saucer vines just a few minutes ago. I did moonflowers too but I'm starting them in a plastic baggie with a moist paper towel.
I did an experiment earlier with a single MF seed and it worked. I may do more next week.
Brad AKA Moonwolf
Great job! What kind are they? 'Moonflower' can be used to describe a lot of different flowers such as morning glories to daturas.
FYI for next time, the dome should have come off on April 9th when they germinated.
I would get them under shop lights. Lights should be between 1-3" away from the top of them to keep them stocky and not stretching for the light.
Temps: 50-60 is ideal, but warmer wont kill them, maybe make them a little leggy.
I would transplant them into 16 oz cups or 3-4" pots. This will help build a stronger root system and watering will be easier in a larger container.
I would bottom water once the top 3/4 is dry, do not keep them moist. Constant moisture promotes dampening off and a weak/shallow root system. I would fertilize with a 1/4 solution once a week as well.
.......depending on exactly what moonflower you are talking about, you can't plant them until may 15th or after your last frost date. Plant them in full sun and amend the soil with some organic material.
I hope that helps.
Keriann~
I had a bit of green 'stuff' on my soil line. It was not slimy, looked more like really bright moss. This was showing when teh plants were very young still. I can't say if we have the same green 'stuff' but mine was harmless. I did do what oilpainter suggested with increasing airflow but it did not go away. It dissapeared when my petunias got larger and blocked the light to the top of the soil line.
This had no effect on my petunias, they are now about 8" tall and 24" across.
Keriann~
It's likely algae and shouldn't hurt your seedlings. Do not spray with bleach, the ph of household bleach is somewhere around 11 and would be fatal to plants. Water less, increase air circulation around your trays. You must be close to being able to put your seedlings outdoors to begin to harden them off, just that step alone should resolve the problem.
Very good point! : )
Last year I started a lot of transplants under 4 - 4' bulbs. It became very crowded under there. I am working on a lot more this year and do not have much room or time and was hoping this would give me more area to grow in. I had such good luck I was lead to believe this would only be easier. Natural light should be superior to a bulb, but I am starting to eat my words!
It may have been too hot for your broccoli where you had it, put it at the back. Sunlight coming through the window will be the strongest and hottest near the window and it can raise the temperature by 20 or 30 degrees even if the sides are open. It does little to protect the plants at night, so they are subject to tremendous temperature changes. I know there are people who do this, but it is far from ideal.
Thanks, guys; they must be petunias. I don't remember buying or sowing that many seeds, and the last time I took a look at them, they were doing pretty poorly. So I guess, yay that they pulled through, but if anybody hears of a sale on terra cotta pots, do let me know, cause I am clean outta room for these guys! :)
Keriann- oh, now, you know my australian cattle dog mix just hates tennis balls and is not at all obsessive... How cute, I didn't even notice her little feet down there. She is lying on a welcome mat that is now 'matted' with her hair because I gave her her summertime haircut on the porch; I'm just glad the hair is out there and no longer in my house! Thank goodness for a Dyson.
The wedding flowers are really coming along pretty well. The alyssum has had blooms for just weeks now, and the zinnias are getting nice and big and starting to form buds. The snapdragons have been a bit disappointing; she wanted a variety from the T&M catalogue, and their germination was pretty pitiful. I do have lots of other snaps of my own I can sub in if they don't take off pretty quick. The dwarf sunflowers are still pretty small, but I have faith that they will grow pretty quick. I have been outside for the last two weekends all day long, planting out. It is not right to come in to work on a Monday more tired than you left on Friday!
It's still too early to plant tomatoes and especially peppers in your zone anyway so there isn't any rush. You still have a couple of weeks and assuming decent growing conditions they will kick into high gear in plenty of time. Meanwhile make sure you aren't over-watering. That stunts and stalls growth more than anything.
You can't make up for 2 weeks in 2 days. Patience. ;)
Dave
Timers; if timers aren't an option, 24/7 I guess but your waterer will really have to stay on top of it. I wouldn't let zinnias go dark that long. Mine even pouted being in the shade when I hardened them off, so I just kicked em out in the sun. I don't think you need to stake, they'll come toward the light quick enough.
Yes, the dome left ajar. BTW, one thing I use with all my seed starts is bird gravel. I cover them with the gravel rather than soil. It seems to help. Also, I start with damp (not sodden) seed starter. I like the one from Gardener's Supply - it seems to work for me and I don't mess with success. But honestly, I don't do anything special with them. I try to resist rewatering the pots unless they really look dry - so maybe that's how I avoid any rotting?
It depends on so many factors.
The reason we harden off is because the seedlings cannot take the intense sunlight after being inside their whole life or the wind because they have been sheltered inside.
Your plants will tell you when they are ready for the elements.
Do they stand up straight or bounce right back from wind? And do they look happy in full sun (if they are full-sun plants)
If yes, they are ready for their final homes.
This may take 1 day of 10 days depending on who, what, where and why.
You will know your plants the best.
Keriann~