6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
From my novice experience, it depends on the type of seeds/plant you are growing, how deep the pot(s) are, and how warm the lights get. If you enclose an area, depending on the materials you are using, you can run the risk of mold and, if it's seedlings, weak-stemmed adult plants (though this has mostly just been my experience).
This is a pic of pepper seeds that were sowed into a germination mix. I really don't like germination mixes because they are too fine and dense, but I had run out of my normal sowing mix. Notice there is very little perlite and bark pieces. When I transplant these seedlings out, they will go into a much coarser mix. 
Here is a picture of what my normal SOWING mix looks like. Notice there is alot more perlite and bark pieces in the picture below. I typically will transplant these seedlings into Fafards 52 mix, my all-time favorite soilless mix. BUT, if your mix(in the white containers) looks like the mix below and is SOILLESS (meaning it only consists of peat, perlite, vermiculite, bark, and not REAL soil) then you should be OK. 
With that said, I think you need to get more soil into your containers. You are on the right track about sinking your seedlings during transplanting so they don't get leggy, but you need to provide them more soil to grow in AND provide a light source right above them or else they will get leggy real quick!
Here is a picture of pepper seedlings recently transplanted into their own containers (the clear cups work indoors only, I tried experimenting with them one spring. I prefer transplanting into 9 or 18 oz. SOLO cups, I just didn't have a good picture to show). Notice how high the soil line is in the cup? That is what you should be shooting for. 
Let us know what type of mix your seedlings are in, and if it was me (and I was happy with my soil mix), I would pop those seedlings up and out and add more soil to the containers. Hope the pictures help :)
p.s. I agree with the above poster, those domes should only be on for germinating seeds. If you have seedlings under them, get those domes off!
-m
The posters above have the best information, so go with them! I'll just feed in my own two cents from my own experience.
From what I understand, the problem with 'grow' soil is that it's often filled with fertilizers and other stuff that is geared towards full-sized plants a person'd generally get at a nursery, place in a pot (or a garden if it's garden soil), and let them be pretty and/or bear produce until their season is over. It's not made for seedlings.
The soil you are going to use when they get big enough will probably depend on whether you're having these plants stay inside all year, or have them eventually placed in a garden or in a pot outside for the growing season.
The biggest problem that you are having with germinating epherdra sinica are bad/ dead seeds. I tried germinating the seeds by soaking, freezing, etc. with no luck. Then I purchased some seeds from the ebay vendor out of Texas and success!! The vendor provides basic germination instruction. My secret to germination was to lay the seeds on soil (don't cover with soil) and keep moist by spraying with water using a garden sprayer at least two/three times per day. You really can't over water when germinating the seeds. The other secret is sun and heat. I used a indoor growing light and a heat mat. I had the indoor growing light setup on a timer to illuminate 16 hours per day. I had 90% success with germination. You can also probably get a similar success rate in the summer months outside. Once transplanted outside you must find the sunniest place available. In my case this was the side of my house where the seedling had sun from nearly sun up to sun down. I was having a problem with birds and rabbits eating the seedling so I fenced in the area with chicken wire. This is a real slow growing plant. My plants have been growing for 18 months. I've read that the epherdra sinica plant takes approx. 3 years to fully mature. Good luck.
linnea, more often in your climate they would have been sown indoors last month, but that doesn't mean yours will be too late. End of this month you could direct sow them outdoors.
Remember that the seeds of Ricinus are poisonous and wash your hands when you have handled them.
Sow at approx 1"deep in individual pots - they grow somewhat quickly so sow in something with a little depth, somewhat warm, about 70 - 75F. Germination may take as long as 14 to 21 days. Soaking overnight before sowing can speed up germination.
Your lighter colored seeds may still be viable if they look fully formed and roughly the same size as the darker brown seeds.
I've grown thousands of sunflowers, but don't have any experience with transplanting them.. They seem to have a reputation for not doing well, but I've also read quite a few reports of them doing fine. I'd probably wet them down really well and carefully separate each seedling, replanting into bigger pots. No guarantees, though.
Don't worry, you can easily transplant them out. Pop out the soil block (I usually do this when the soil is fairly dry), use your fingers to loosen the soil (by doing this the seedlings tend to fall apart from one another), and gently take each seedling by the stem and peel them away from the soil and the other seedlings. Seedlings are pretty tough. They may sulk a bit when put into their new container, but they will quickly bounce back.
I would transplant each into a 9 oz. SOLO cup, before transplanting again into their final home (their final home should be in a container AT LEAST 6" wide) . When you transplant bury the stem so only a couple of inches sticks out above the soil line. Leave the seedling in the cup for 1 1/2 weeks, then pop the plant and soil block out of the cup and plant into your final container.
Good luck!
It could be birds in the daytime, but it could also be a number of things that would feed at night, slugs, young caterpillar, snails, sow bugs....
You may have to go out after dark with a flashlight and look, find what is causing the damage. Hand picking and destroying may take care of it, or come back and tell us what you've found for an insect specific solution once identification has taken place. Start about dusk, you may have to make more than one trip.
@floral - I have already removed it from the water heater for a few days. Its the next to the window in the kitchen. I might move it outside tomorrow, to start hardening it off. I forgot to move it today. Tomorrow is suppose to be fully cloudy and 75.
Thanks. When I put it in the soil, i will bury it deeper.
For me cucumbers do not do well if started indoors. They don't usually take to being transplanted well and just sit there not doing anything for awhile after transplant. I always direct seed now and the seeds sprout in less than a week and grow much better than transplants.
I usually try to start hardening off on a Tuesday evening after work for one hour in shade, 2 hours on Wednesday in shade, 3 hours on Thursday with the last hour being in waning sun, and then 4 hours on Friday in partial sun/shade if possible. These first four days they get brought back in and put under the lights. On Saturday morning I put them out for good on my east facing deck where I can keep on eye on them and move them around so they get good morning sun and maybe a little afternoon sun over the weekend. By Monday or Tuesday they should be ready for most anything but I will bring them in the garage in the case of sever weather. Be aware that once plants start to get exposure to outdoors they tend to start growing much faster so you will need to raise your grow lights when you put them back or you will probably find them growing into the lights the next morning.
I love Fafards too, for containers and for the last potting before perennials, etc grown from seed, divisions or cuttings go into garden beds. For seed starting, Hoffman's Seed Starter has been my favorite. It's harder to find lately but I bite the bullet and buy it online. It is just so much easier to wet and retains moisture for longer than other seed starters I've tried.
I found this link helpful: http://www.sunflowerselections.com/how-to-grow-ornamental-sunflowers/
Maybe, in approx 5 - 7 years. If you can provide the right culture. Many commercial trees are grown as grafted plants, so don't expect the fruit will be identical to the fruit you ate, it may not come true.
need other avocado trees that release or accept pollen at the same time of day as well as pollen-carrying bees to reliably produce fruit - not self-pollinating
full sun in well-drained garden soil with a pH of 6.0 to 6.5
plenty of water for these shallow rooted trees
frost-free climate
Please don't expect us to help without some pictures of the seedlings/mold/dust. We love good pictures.
I wouldn't say they're ruined. It'll depend on the plant and the type of mold, of course, but generally light, air flow, and less moisture should do the trick. Since your plants have been outside (I don't know how long they've been out), be wary of fungus gnats.