6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

Bottom water all of them when the top 3/4 is dry.
You may need to mist slow growers such as impatiens and begonias. I would keep those moist until they get a few sets of true leaves.
And yes, you are correct (as I now know) that bottom watering encourages roots to reach down in search of water thus producing a better root system.
Keriann~

Some had partially germinated, others had not. I'm in Long Beach, California. If you think direct sowing would be a better approach, I'll try that instead. This is my first season starting from seed, and boy has it been frustrating! Hopefully by next year I'll have worked out all the kinks.
~Mike

I gotcha. No worries, trial and error are the name of the game. :) In case you haven't, do check out the FAQ on the front page of this forum. Most folks start seeds early indoors and grow under lights until it's time to plant outside. I'd direct sow everything except possibly the peppers and tomatoes; hopefully someone else will chime in here with opinions. Those two germinate a bit better at higher temperatures, so if you could sprout them indoors on a warm surface, you'd probably get faster germination. My experience is with starting seeds indoors under lights, so I'm not sure about the logistics of sprouting them indoors and then transitioning immediately to sunshine/outdoors, so I don't know if that's do-able. It might be easier to get yourself a couple of cheap shop lights for those. You might also try the vegetable forum and tomclothier.net for best germination temps/techniques for your various veggies. Hope that helps. Don't get discouraged, once you get the basics down, you'll do great! :)

That's funny Dave (about the pic size)
Ten years ago before everything went digital or High Speed Satellite,Cable etc etc..I used to get so mad at people posting pics that would take me actual minutes to download... AAAARRRGGHH.. But Now... I don't even consider it,you can post the largest pic known to man, and the technology to download is so fast....It is incredible.... but since you are bringing it up now,maybe it WOULD STILL behoove us to see if many (or any) forumites,are still having those issues that I thought were absolutely gone for good. We should take a poll and see who is still stuck in analog or some other slow beast and if it is a significant number of people,be more considerate to them.. I just know when I am researching anything (like I just did with a "garden centipede" ,I don't want some small pic to look at ,I want full clarity,the bigger the better....
BTW... Do you have to turn a crank on your computer,to fire it up ;-) Just Kiddin'.. Love Ya Man ;-)

BTW... Do you have to turn a crank on your computer,to fire it up ;-)
Nah I'm high speed satellite. But I do know lots of folks out in the country who are stuck with dial-up service as it is still all that is available in many rural areas if they can't hoof the bill for satellite. Life in the country is very different than for you urbanopolis dwellers. ;)
Dave


I like to cut slightly above soil line & try not to soak the cut area during watering (if possible) to minimize the chance of rot traveling down the roots, but I may be overcautious. Newspaper should be as good or better as long as it's a good, firm grass block.


I have grown tangerines [both honey, satsuma, and working on dancy] from seed.
I have not tried the towel method ; but I have tried these two methods. Some seeds were directly planted after being washed; and some were washed and then let dry. Granted these are not lemons but all related in the citrus family. You may want to try both to see what works for you.
The important thing is not to give up cause they do take 2-3 weeks to germiniate.

Woohoo, so today I have 3 little lemon seedlings! Such an accomplishment. I planted there little roots into a pot and am going to see which one takes the best and thin the others. I can only hope they survive now! Thanks for your help everyone, I'll try to keep updated on their progress.
-Christine


Thanks everyone! I will see how it goes first. I do recall something that I read on the Internet when searching for info about germination, that very few seeds are viable. Don't recall why.
I am also starting seed of the red Tecoma, but from what I've read they appear to be much easier.
May take you up on the offer for a cutting, but will first see how the seeds do.
Susan

I put mine on top of the dryer, because at the early stage I have found they don't need too much light to sprout. I leave the gro dome off the top to let the humidity and condensation dry out for an hour or so, so there is no mold either.
Hope this helps.

I use the dryer as well. I never thought about it, but I was at my mother's house planting Gloriosa seeds. I just stuck the pot in a window for a few days, but she put it in the laundry room for some reason. Everything I read said it would take several weeks for germination, but it took just over a week before I saw my first leaf coming up. She does a lot of laundry, so I'm using her dryer as my heating pad. Right now, I've got some seeds in a baggie, and I put a towel down to prevent it from getting too hot, but in peat pots, it wasn't necessary.

I agree with oilpainter that unless you can rig up a way to support the fruit watermelon in a container will be very problematic.
But if you want to give it a try then the bigger the container the better and both of yours are quite small. The 24" container would be close to the size of 1 hill in the garden except for root room so it could hold 1 plant perhaps. But you will have to water it several times a day and feed it at least weekly for any production.
Container gardening is great in many ways and normally easy to do but a few fruits and vegetables just aren't "container-oriented". So rather than things like potatoes (you other post) and melons why not focus instead on food plants that will thrive in containers?
Dave

My Watermelons always sprawl to 15' or so, if you have that much land,why a pot ???
But anyway... Unless you are doing trellis's (in which case you WOULD have to figure out a way to support your melons), all you need to do is pinch off any watermelons that will be in a position to "hang"...VIOLA...back in business ;-)

Your hollyhocks, sweet peas can go outside anytime now with reservations since they are already started.
Both don't mind cool temperatures and will withstand a light frost. I start them outside in a month or so before my last frost date, not inside.
With yours, Transplant them into individual pots and give them a week to settle in and then start hardening them off and then plant.
You can do the same with Morning Glories but They like it warmer and won't stand frost so don't plant outside yet. I usually start these outside too.
Then you will have room to separate the others. I wouldn't use peat pots. Do them in pots or paper cups with holes punched in the bottom and a good potting soil like pro mix. If you ever plant peat pots be sure to remove the pots or outer cover before you plant. Unlike they say the roots do not go through it unless it is sopping wet and it doesn't biodegrade in one season


I let the top 3/4 dry out and then bottom water until the top glistens.
I would not keep the soil damp or always spray when the top drys out.
The top of my soil will dry out in a day or so, but I wait until the top 3/4 is dry before giving them a drink.
Are you using Peat moss jeffy pellets?
Keriann~
You could also search 'watering' here, there are many posts about this.

Thanks for the responses!
I am using a Schultz potting soil mix that contains mostly peat moss.
I removed the plastic covers from the flats some days ago,and since then, I have been misting the soil with a spray bottle every day. We are currently getting some unusually warm weather for this region, and the tomatoes are springing up very quickly!

"WHAT WOULD DO THIS???"
You don't happen to have any cats around, do you? That is exactly what some of my cats will do, just bite the heads off.
Try covering them with netting of some kind, even tulle.
Go to a dollar store or party store and see what they've got in shiny mylar fringe, the longer the better. Hang it over your seedlings; if necessary, tie them to the top of a stick (like a ponytail) and let them sway over the seedlings. Birds shouldn't like this at all.
Growing seedlings is like issuing an invitation to a smorgasbord to every animal and insect in the area.
Slugs usually take them off a the soil line.
Sue

Belgianpup:
Birds may pick at the petals of flowers but I've never seen any that go after leaves. They have never bothered my flowers, but They do go after the apple blossoms occasionally
Slugs will eat the leaves and sometimes the stem, but it's cutworm that nips them off at the base.


I don't run a fan, no. We get the wind sweeping down the plain here, but my yard is pretty dang sheltered, with houses and big trees and fences all around, so I've never had a problem (knock on wood). It was whipping around pretty good last night/this morning with a thunderstorm, and everything still looks good, with the exception of some calendula that I started too early and it got a bit leggy before I planted it out. But even that is just kind of laying over, it's not broken or anything. So I think the only things you'd have to worry about would be real tall, leggy seedlings, which I guess should be avoided anyway. In an ideal world. :)
Queenofthemountain, your hardening off plan sounds good to me. I'd protect tomatoes from 45* and lower, unless you wintersowed them. I'm wintersowing mine this year, so the seeds are outside now, waiting to sprout. My forecast is for the thirties tonight and 30* F tomorrow night. My peppers are indoors though, and won't go outside until May.
I run a fan, but not all day. I run it at least 15 minutes each day though. I'm thinking about putting the fan on a timer. Air movement helps prevent damping off and other nasties. It also encourages the seedlings to build stronger, shorter stems. If your tomatoes are leggy just plant them deeper when you transplant. You can plant them deeper vertically, or trench them so the stems go in the soil diagonally. Doesn't work with other veggies that I know of, though it might work on other nightshades. Best to grow them short and strong to begin with. One of the tricks I've learned with tomatoes is to brush my hand across the tops of the seedlings. Follow the link for more info. I enjoy the smell of tomato foliage so I like petting my pet tomatoes. :-)
Here is a link that might be useful: Brooklyn Botanic Garden - Sheperd Ogden article