6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

Thank you Dave and gawdinfever. In previous years I covered seeds with black plastic and used room temperature. Also I did not pay enough attention to amount of water. This year I put on heat and covered with black plastic with very poor results. After gawdenfever email, I sowed a few seeds and put on heat and covered with vermiculite. Do you think that will work. Thank you. Marie

Vinca is no more difficult than Impatiens from seed, but they do not require light to germinate. I usually cover lightly with jiffy mix. However, I got a packet of Vinca seeds from Swallowtail Gardens this year that instructed that light should be completely blocked which I had not done before. I covered the pot with newspaper and had germination in 4 days.
Alana

Maybe it's Diego making them grow!
What I did wrong... Well, I started them in containers of a similar depth/size as I would other seeds (margerine tub, or similar). That was too deep, as they are so tiny at first, that maintaining proper moisture on the surface was difficult. Then, some of them were crowded, and I attempted to transplant them too soon. They really pouted for a long time after that. Also, I transplanted them into the dreaded peat pots, which did nothing for my 'dry on top, damp on bottom' issues. So, with the new ones, I sowed them in shallower containers, and left the cover on longer than I normally would to help maintain surface moisture, until they were of a size that could be seen by the naked eye. Also, I sprayed the surface more than I normally would. Since there was less soil, I could actually water a bit more frequently (usually just about daily), but had uniform drying of the soil, so the tiny roots at the top were receiving the benefit of the watering. Also, I haven't transplanted them, even though a few of them are crowding each other.

Is there any way for you to set up a wicking system.
I will try to describe one, but you can use different materials...
Take a 1020 tray with no holes and add one inch of water. Then set a baking rack in it so it sits out of the water. Then lay a piece of paper towel, cotton cord... something that will draw water, over the tray so that the ends are sticking in the water and then set your seedlings on that so that the seedlings can wick up water via the cord/papertowel... I know it is a long shot but worth a try.
The other thing I would try is getting them into bigger pots to hold more moisture.
Or setting them in a 1/2 inch of water and putting a fan on them... that would increase the chance of dampening off but you may get lucky.
Good luck, don't let it ruin your vacation : )
Keriann~

I'm still giving a neighbor free tomato plants, and tomatoes I grow when she has crop failure, for her help in watering my starts daily about 4 or 5 years ago for a few days when I had to be away due to a death in the family. That, and I can't do anything else with them.
Sell them? Ha Ha Ha! Can hardly give tomato plants away around here. I think the greenhouse tries to sell them for $1.50, but doesn't move many until they have their 6 for $1. end of season sale.


I am trying these seeds and I sowed them last January, left 2 weeks at 70F, and then I put them in the refrigerator around the end of January. I took them out of the refrigerator today, and this is how the tray looks like as I opened the baggy:
The little seedlings actually are not Monkshood, but they are Jacob's Ladder seedlings that I planted in one of the 9 cells and they survived in the dark of the refrigerator for almost 2 months!!!
What concerns me are thos white moldy spots because I think I have lost some seeds here. I have 70F in my apartment and I definitely would not want my place to be left at 50F, so I will have to see if they can germinate at this temperature. Outside it gets high 50s in the night and low 80s during the day. Would it be better if I leave the tray outside? I hope I will have at least one plantlet!!!
I'll keep you posted.
Rino

Yeah, I figured seaweed and fish emulsion were organic, but honestly the rule for a lot of products seems to be they are chemical based, so that is always what I assume if I don't know. My other problem is that none of my local landscaping and gardening centers are open for the season yet, and they do not carry these products at Menard's or other area chain home improvement stores.
I planted a variety of flowers (cosmos, poppies, butterfly weed, dahlia bulbs) and herbs/veg (parsley, rosemary, oregano, leeks, tomato). Some plantings got the worm castings, but I ran out before I was done getting all the seeds in. I used regular potting soil to start everything.
Right now most things only have 1 set of 2 leaves. Sounds like I don't need to fertilize yet, but if I do at some point, I'm wondering what is best. Thanks.

The fish emulsion I use is actually certified by OMRI; there's a link at the bottom. So it's definitely organic. Since you started in soil and not sterile mix, and since your plants all seem to be doing well, and you're probably another month or so from planting out, I'd sit tight for now. You can always wait to fertilize until you plant out; bigger plants now just means more potting up and space issues w/ your lights anyway! :)
Here is a link that might be useful: fish emulsion

I have! Earlier someone on the Vegetable forum suggested I try it and posted the same link!
I have a white 5-gallon bucket with a 3-inch hole cut in the bottom for planting stuff out in the garden (to alleviate the PWT). I just turned it upside down, put a CFL down through the hole, taped it in place securely, and set the bucket and seeds on a heating pad. Everything germinates very quickly in that setup.

I put them under lights....
But I found this link that might be helpful as well.
Here is a link that might be useful: Aces Publication on Vinca

I'm happy to report I gathered seed from my vinca plants (and many others)last fall. Started them about five weeks ago and they are all doing well. This is only my second year of starting seeds. Thru the winter, I collect food containers (Chinese takeout, plastic sandwich containers, pie/cake containers)with lids. I just put about one to one 1/2 inches of seed starting soil in the bottom of the containers, and water well. Then, I sprinkle my seeds over that. I follow-up with a light covering of my soil and pop the lids on. Some containers I put a plastic bag over if it didn't have a lid. All my seeds come up. Even those that take two weeks or more to germinate, I never open to water. Once they have a true set of leaves, I take the lids off and put under the grow lights or in direct sun. And, I watch them daily for watering needs. Then, I transplant when they get a little bigger into larger containers. I'm so proud of my vincas and I hope I can keep their momentum going. They are one of my favorites! Good luck.


There are so many variables when it comes to germinating seeds. I've had seed that germinated in 2 days (that said it would take 14-21 days!). I've had seed that took 3 weeks or more, and should have germinated in 5-7 days.
If your container is dripping from the bottom, that's good. At least it's draining. I've taken to using bakers' cooling racks under my light setup.

Thanks all for your suggestions. I actually have some dianthus and snapdragons started inside. I also wintered sowed them too. I plan on starting zinnia next month inside. I direct sowed some last year late May and they just didn't do to well for me.
I just love playing in the dirt! :))


Need some clarification Jackie. Is this a cold frame or a greenhouse? Very different things. I will assume it is a GH since you mention "walking in.
If so then yes it is well past time in your zone to start seeds in a GH. HOWEVER some heat for it may be required on especially cold nights. Right now we are having to heat the GHs an average of 1-2 nights a week and that will continue here until about the 12th of April. And some method of cooling it will be required almost everyday now.
You have discovered one of the advantages/disadvantages of a GH - too hot in the day and too cold at night unless you have an insulated structure and learning how to balance the too is one of the primary challenges of GH growing. ;) The goal is to keep the air temps at plant height between 45 and 70 max. (65 is better)
So assuming you will be starting your seeds in containers and not in the ground as with a cold frame and assuming you will have a source of bottom heat to use for germination (soil temps of 70-85) then get a couple on min/max thermometers for monitoring your air temps and start planting your seeds.
Hope this helps.
Dave
PS: be sure to check out the Greenhouse forum here too.

Hi Jackie:
I assume you mean a greenhouse if you can walk into it and not a cold frame. A cold frame sits low to the ground and you can't walk into it. It would help if I could see a picture of it, but I'll go on the premise that it is actually a greenhouse. I have had a homemade greenhouse for many years and I think I can give you a few tips.
First make it as air tight as you can. Next is there any way you can section off a piece for seed starting. You don't need the whole greenhouse to start seeds and there's not much use heating the whole thing. A floor of stone or cement slabs or a combination of both will also help retain heat in the greenhouse. Often in old greenhouses you will see a brick or stone wall on the north side. That was not just decorative but also a way of heating the greenhouse at night.
There are 2 things I think You should consider buying. One is a minimum-maximum thermometer, and the other is a heater with a thermostat. The minimum-maximum thermometer gives you the lowest and highest temperatures since it was last set. This allows you to set the heater so it stays above freezing and lets you know when it's too hot and has to be opened. I live in zone 3. I open my greenhouse in mid Apirl. Our last freeze date is the end of May, so I would say you are just about right starting now. By the way I figured out it costs me around $50 for the season to heat my greenhouse with an Electric heater.
You have discovered the magic of a greenhouse. Yes it can be below freezing and if the sun is shining it will be too hot in the greenhouse. I try to keep mine in the 70's in the day, but at night it can go down to the low 40's.
If you don't want to heat at night, then have something you can cover your plants with when the thermometer dips very low at night. During greenhouse season I watch what the temperature is going to dip to every night. I do recommend you get the thermometer. It will be a great help with knowing what you have to do.
If you have any more questions post them and I'll be happy to answer if I can

If the seeds have started to sprout then the dome needs to be removed. There are several discussions here about that if you have the time to do a bit of reading.;) The domes are just for germination (and aren't really even needed for that), not for growing.
Sprouted seeds need light and air, not a dome. The increased air circulation will get rid of the mold. And moving them to the lights will help IF you don't over-water.
Dave

Most plants like to be planted at the relatively same depth as they grew in. That means they can go a bit lower but not much. Tomatoes planted deeper will grow roots along their stem but most plants don't do that and you run the danger of the stem rotting.
Do you have more than 1 light? Could you devote one light to your eggplant so you can have it higher than is needed for your other plants? If so I would stake your leggy plants and get them under the lights. Once they have enough light the stem will thicken

While increasing light will undoubtedly help, in my experience any plant in the Solancaea (sp?) family -- tomatoes, eggplants, peppers -- can be transplanted a bit deeper than the original soil line. Tomatoes are a bit more tolerant of this, but eggplants can also survive such a move.



I have been told that stepping in a warm fresh cow pattie with bare feet is supposed to feel quite extraordinary! Provided you have a sinus cold or plug your nose.
whatever your method beforehand, you need to water afterwards to settle the soil around the roots and get the large air gaps out so that the roots are in contact with the soil