6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
I winter sowed one in a plastic milk jug around the 1st of January. This one has sprouts.
I sowed three in cow pots, put inside a plastic bag and refrigerated for 3 weeks. They have been out of fridge and outside for about a month. One has sprouts and two doesn't.
These are all different kinds.
I ordered more seed last week. Since it isn't really cold outside anymore, I guess I'll try the fridge method with these when I get the seeds.
Yea, as long as they have not gotten wet/soaked by anything other than water, moldy, etc., you should still be able to use them. Just rememeber to remove that netting & pot up sooner than normal (as soon as root start to show on bottom of pellet) and you will be fine. =)
Great!!, then i will go ahead and use them. I had lots of them left over from last year and didn't want them to go to waste.
Dave thanks for the link, not sure why other people had problems. I have had great success with peat pellets. As soon as I see germination in the pellets, I put them under lights for 3-4 weeks and then transplant the plants (after removing all netting) into plastic cups filled with seed starter mix and leave them under lights , till I am ready to plant outside.
I'm currently growing abuliton.
I purchased seeds from Pinetree. 5 seeds for $1.95.
I sowed the seeds without soaking on January 14th in Jiffy Mix, just barely covering the seeds.I covered the container with a plastic bag and placed it in my fairly warm kitchen. I didn't use any bottom heat or supplemental lighting.
Four seeds sprouted within one week. I lost one seedling due to allowing the potting mix to dry out excessively.
I am now growing my three remaining seedling in yogurt cups in a west window that has light reducing glass. The seedlings are about 3" high and have 3-4 sets of true leaves. I'll probably start growing the plants under my shop lights soon and hopefully that will accelerate their growth.
Most abutilon that is sold through cataloges are hybrids so I don't know if that might of effected the viability of your collected seed.
slackermom, thanks for the answer. So it can be done, just not by me I guess! I have sown at least 50 seeds that I saved and the 10 that I purchased from Parks. Mine are in a flat with ProMix under a plastic dome. Doesn't sound much different than what you did. Guess I'll just have to try another batch. Thank you.
It was in my attempt to transplant to a larger pot. Oilpainter is suggesting I wet the soil before trying to re-pot. I was thinking my transplant to a larger container would be like trying to plant a store bought plant, which now I think I understand is a "potting soil", not seed starting mix. This is my 1st attempt at seed starting more than just a few plants. I haven't killed anything yet, but trying to keep them going till a little warmer outside. Thanks
jim,
Don't worry about it. Tomato plants are actually very hardy. Plant them down as low as the seed leaves "cotyledons" (and remove them before replanting) and the plant will grow roots out the length of the stem that is under the soil. This process will actually lead to stronger, healthier plants in the long-run!
Wow lots of replies! I did harden them off in the greenhouse first but it got warm, I got antsy I planted a batch that day and they are good so far. It will be chilly tonight so we will see, I also stuck a zinnia in the ground it was already 5 inches tall. I have lots more in the greenhouse and inside still, plus others commelina, nicandra, marigolds, canterbury bells, nasturshims, cosmos, and more. Can't seem to sprout coleus or poppies or cleome to save my life.
You have to be careful when hardening them off, they shouldn't be placed out in full sun right away, you need to gradually expose them to the conditions outdoors (wind, sun, temps, etc...). They can easily go downhill if you don't "ween" them off the cozy conditions of being grown inside! I start by setting them out in the shade in a protected location out of the wind for a couple days, and gradually move them into the sun...then they are good to be planted in their new homes! But you should wait until you have no more frost, which is probably soon in your zone or you will have to cover them at night when frost is expected.
Yes I suppose I could have but you did ask and we did answer and you chose to ignore the advice given despite at least 4 or more of the same opinion. You did the same thing with all the advice you were given on lights and now you have a bunch of leggy seedlings as a result. So can you honestly blame us for feeling we might be wasting our time and effort?
Now I see you have another post up "what should you do with the cover? since people are telling me to take it off "the SECOND" they germinate what happens to the remaining pods that havent popped through the "soil"?"
and that too is discussed here in several posts one with almost the same title. You remove it anyway. The rest will germinate just fine or they never would have anyway. If the surface of those remaining cells starts to dry out, just mist it a bit to keep it moist so the seedling can break through.
Please don't get me wrong. We enjoy helping folks here but when they turn around and either ignore the answers they get or argue with the help we try to give and do just the opposite it sure makes it difficult to keep on trying to help them.
Dave
Both work best when direct seeded in the garden. And in your zone direct seeding has many advantages because your season is plenty long enough for them so starting them early has no advantages.
And unfortunately using the peat pots only creates additional problems for them. If you choose to use them you need to monitor the soil moisture closely because they wick the water away from the plant. And when you plant them in the garden you need to strip off all or at least the majority of the pot first.
Dave
I concur with what Dave has stated.
In your zone, they would have plenty of time to develop ripe, beautiful fruit.
I have had success by mounding my ÂhillsÂ, each planted with 3/4 seeds, and amending it with a lot or organic material (from my compost bin). They are hogs and love the extra nutrients. I also only water them in the evening to prevent powdery mildew (though it hasnÂt effected my fruit), and snip a few vines (in small increments) to promote fewer, but larger fruit.
Just my opinion and what has worked for me.
I am bummed, I turned my melon and pumpkin garden into ANOTHER dahlia/zinnia cutting bed : ). I will sure miss my fruit vines!
Keriann~
Are they all the same type of seed in the flat?
If so....
They will germinate in a few days as normal, and after a week or so, you could call the seeds 'duds' if they don't germinae
Domes are helpful when germinating (for most things), but they are not necessary.
Keriann~
Since you jumped all over other posters for not posting they way you 'wanted', please don't be offended if others pass up advising you now. Just an FYI
Here is one of several previous discussions of this question that should answer your question.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: remove cover and put under lights if only few have germinated?
Thank you all for your info.
The fertilizer was a liquid diluted to 50%. I noticed the droopiness in the late afternoon/early evening the day after the heat & crazy winds.
They are still looking OK (standing up at least, and not getting worse from what I can tell).... but I assume the crispified leaves will not get any better.
I'll just baby them and hope for the best!
That is really too cold for seedlings. Isn't 30F below freezing? Growing on a windowsill is really not sufficient light to start seeds. They will get leggy and week searching for the light. Is there no way you can hang a simple plug in flourescent light fixture. Look through the forums some people have ingenious ways of doing this.
Yes tomatoes are about the only ones I know of who benifit from being planted deeper. Many others will die if treated that way.
If you want to put them outside you will have to use a cold frame, but that requires constant watching that it doesn't get too hot or too cold and your plants will need to be watered often.
I'd say for another year check out the winter gardening forum.
When you say you have MG, what do you have? MG soil, fertilizer...?
You should only use sterile potting or seed starting soil to start your seeds in. Top soil should be avoided all together, it is too dense and can be filled with diseases and fungi spores.
I would suggest getting a bag of potting or seed starting mix that is sealed/sterile. They can range from 5-30 bucks depending on size and brand. This will save you a lot of trouble in the long run.
What happened to your first try? Did they just not germinate or germinate and then die?
Keriann~
PS I would direct sow your Zinnas.
PSS Describe your set-up.. Do you have lights? Heat mat? Containers? Water?
As for a container to grow your seeds almost anything wood paper or plastic that will hold your growing medium will do. It must have holes in the bottom for drainage.Egg cartons are all right but you will have to transplant them later because they don't hold enough soil for the roots as the plant grows. Sealed jars and paper towels won't do to grow them. You can sprout them on paper towels but once sprouted they need to go in soil.
You are right about soil from outside. It holds a bunch of nasties that you don't want when you are starting seed.
Peat mass gets hard when it dries out. It is in soilless seed starting mixes but other things keep it loose.
Top soil is not a good seed starting mix.
If some have died it is probably because you had them too wet. You need the soil moist but not too wet
Whether they "droop" or go into shock when transplanted depends on how old they are when transplanted and the steps or manner you use to do it. The younger they are the better they do. But even in the worst case they will often recover if given a few days of shade, minimal water and no feeding.
Dave
I never have a problem unless I do a complete media change. When transplanting the whole contents of a pot there should be no shock. When transplanting into the garden from inside you must harden off a plant, then transplant in the evening.