6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
Wow lots of replies! I did harden them off in the greenhouse first but it got warm, I got antsy I planted a batch that day and they are good so far. It will be chilly tonight so we will see, I also stuck a zinnia in the ground it was already 5 inches tall. I have lots more in the greenhouse and inside still, plus others commelina, nicandra, marigolds, canterbury bells, nasturshims, cosmos, and more. Can't seem to sprout coleus or poppies or cleome to save my life.
You have to be careful when hardening them off, they shouldn't be placed out in full sun right away, you need to gradually expose them to the conditions outdoors (wind, sun, temps, etc...). They can easily go downhill if you don't "ween" them off the cozy conditions of being grown inside! I start by setting them out in the shade in a protected location out of the wind for a couple days, and gradually move them into the sun...then they are good to be planted in their new homes! But you should wait until you have no more frost, which is probably soon in your zone or you will have to cover them at night when frost is expected.
Yes I suppose I could have but you did ask and we did answer and you chose to ignore the advice given despite at least 4 or more of the same opinion. You did the same thing with all the advice you were given on lights and now you have a bunch of leggy seedlings as a result. So can you honestly blame us for feeling we might be wasting our time and effort?
Now I see you have another post up "what should you do with the cover? since people are telling me to take it off "the SECOND" they germinate what happens to the remaining pods that havent popped through the "soil"?"
and that too is discussed here in several posts one with almost the same title. You remove it anyway. The rest will germinate just fine or they never would have anyway. If the surface of those remaining cells starts to dry out, just mist it a bit to keep it moist so the seedling can break through.
Please don't get me wrong. We enjoy helping folks here but when they turn around and either ignore the answers they get or argue with the help we try to give and do just the opposite it sure makes it difficult to keep on trying to help them.
Dave
Both work best when direct seeded in the garden. And in your zone direct seeding has many advantages because your season is plenty long enough for them so starting them early has no advantages.
And unfortunately using the peat pots only creates additional problems for them. If you choose to use them you need to monitor the soil moisture closely because they wick the water away from the plant. And when you plant them in the garden you need to strip off all or at least the majority of the pot first.
Dave
I concur with what Dave has stated.
In your zone, they would have plenty of time to develop ripe, beautiful fruit.
I have had success by mounding my ÂhillsÂ, each planted with 3/4 seeds, and amending it with a lot or organic material (from my compost bin). They are hogs and love the extra nutrients. I also only water them in the evening to prevent powdery mildew (though it hasnÂt effected my fruit), and snip a few vines (in small increments) to promote fewer, but larger fruit.
Just my opinion and what has worked for me.
I am bummed, I turned my melon and pumpkin garden into ANOTHER dahlia/zinnia cutting bed : ). I will sure miss my fruit vines!
Keriann~
Are they all the same type of seed in the flat?
If so....
They will germinate in a few days as normal, and after a week or so, you could call the seeds 'duds' if they don't germinae
Domes are helpful when germinating (for most things), but they are not necessary.
Keriann~
Since you jumped all over other posters for not posting they way you 'wanted', please don't be offended if others pass up advising you now. Just an FYI
Here is one of several previous discussions of this question that should answer your question.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: remove cover and put under lights if only few have germinated?
Thank you all for your info.
The fertilizer was a liquid diluted to 50%. I noticed the droopiness in the late afternoon/early evening the day after the heat & crazy winds.
They are still looking OK (standing up at least, and not getting worse from what I can tell).... but I assume the crispified leaves will not get any better.
I'll just baby them and hope for the best!
That is really too cold for seedlings. Isn't 30F below freezing? Growing on a windowsill is really not sufficient light to start seeds. They will get leggy and week searching for the light. Is there no way you can hang a simple plug in flourescent light fixture. Look through the forums some people have ingenious ways of doing this.
Yes tomatoes are about the only ones I know of who benifit from being planted deeper. Many others will die if treated that way.
If you want to put them outside you will have to use a cold frame, but that requires constant watching that it doesn't get too hot or too cold and your plants will need to be watered often.
I'd say for another year check out the winter gardening forum.
When you say you have MG, what do you have? MG soil, fertilizer...?
You should only use sterile potting or seed starting soil to start your seeds in. Top soil should be avoided all together, it is too dense and can be filled with diseases and fungi spores.
I would suggest getting a bag of potting or seed starting mix that is sealed/sterile. They can range from 5-30 bucks depending on size and brand. This will save you a lot of trouble in the long run.
What happened to your first try? Did they just not germinate or germinate and then die?
Keriann~
PS I would direct sow your Zinnas.
PSS Describe your set-up.. Do you have lights? Heat mat? Containers? Water?
As for a container to grow your seeds almost anything wood paper or plastic that will hold your growing medium will do. It must have holes in the bottom for drainage.Egg cartons are all right but you will have to transplant them later because they don't hold enough soil for the roots as the plant grows. Sealed jars and paper towels won't do to grow them. You can sprout them on paper towels but once sprouted they need to go in soil.
You are right about soil from outside. It holds a bunch of nasties that you don't want when you are starting seed.
Peat mass gets hard when it dries out. It is in soilless seed starting mixes but other things keep it loose.
Top soil is not a good seed starting mix.
If some have died it is probably because you had them too wet. You need the soil moist but not too wet
Hi,
guess i will add in a couple of comments.
people need to chill out about domes/plastic/coverings being on too long....it WON'T cause horrible, immediate, deadly consequences. I repeat WON'T. I am speaking from years and thousands of seedlings of experience. I keep getting that this is so taboo from the posts that I read, that I just have to smile.
Yes, the coverings will need to be removed, but in hours, days??? I will purposely leave saran wrap on to keep that humidity high for the majority of seeds to come up or to protect small plants from dessication....or when I am out of town for the weekend. It can be done!!!! I am talking about peppers all the way to rock garden plants....in fact my saxifrages have had on their saran wrap for close to 2-3 weeks...no worse for wear. I don't have any issues with damp off or my plants dying. Use a good soilless mix, don't overwater when sowing and you won't have issues....period.
And as for the light...my lights sit over the heating bed....waiting for that first seedling to emerge. That means the minute they break the soil surface they are getting the illumination they need. If the seeds happen to need darkness...cover the container.
So...keep those lights on no matter if germinated or not. And your set-up looks fine...compared to mine about 10 years ago, a light bulb in a box to keep in warmth...ha, I still have to laugh:)
m
thanks for the info from everyone. im going to leave on the covers until at least half break the soil (i dont know many proper gardening terms so dont chew me out) the blue light is from the bulb itself. casts blue light. its a GE plant bulb 50w. the 13 pods broke through yesterday after putting the light on them so it seems to work great.
as far as light exposure i just turn off when i go to sleep, on when i wake up. seems to work fine so far.
im just having fun right now and enjoying seeing growth.
Dicot has given one method. I have found you can usually avoid fungus growth by venting the pots regularly. Take the plastic off every day or two, turn over the plastic and put it back on. I have never tried putting holes in the plastic as a venting method. Al
Thanks everyone! I've been reading the other helpful advice and FAQ posts too. I wish I hadn't wasted money on those stupid Jiffy pots! I also just used potting soil mixed with worm castings for a starter base, not a soil-less mix. I guess you just learn, don't you!
no, jiffy's have their uses. They are really useful for taking softwood or semi-ripe cuttings. I put my 38mm ones in a 40 module seed tray - they fit snugly and do not dry out so much. As long as you peel off the outer net when you plant, you should do OK. Also, if using peat is against your principles, you can get peat-free ones. They are too expensive for anything other than special seeds that are large enough or scarce enough to justify using a jiffy.
Lettuce works best when direct seeded anyway so I sure would go ahead and direct seed some now in your zone. Even snow poses no threat to it. But heat does. By the time you get your transplants hardened off and out in 2 weeks it won't be long before they run into weather that is too warm and bolt.
Dave
It was in my attempt to transplant to a larger pot. Oilpainter is suggesting I wet the soil before trying to re-pot. I was thinking my transplant to a larger container would be like trying to plant a store bought plant, which now I think I understand is a "potting soil", not seed starting mix. This is my 1st attempt at seed starting more than just a few plants. I haven't killed anything yet, but trying to keep them going till a little warmer outside. Thanks
jim,
Don't worry about it. Tomato plants are actually very hardy. Plant them down as low as the seed leaves "cotyledons" (and remove them before replanting) and the plant will grow roots out the length of the stem that is under the soil. This process will actually lead to stronger, healthier plants in the long-run!