6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
I would wait, simply until you allow at least one mushroom to become fully mature, as the spawn looks rather like whisps of smoke, released from beneath the fully expanded cap, by the gills below, prior to drying up..
Place a fully grown cap with the mature gills facing downward on a plate, cleaned as well as possible & dried, to collect the 'spore print'.
Otherwise, if you were to damage the mycelium network, you may disrupt the growing cycle. Isn't that why they harvest, by cutting them at the base, as opposed to pulling them up & then removing the base, afterward?
I think I may have once re-used, a Shiitake inoculated, tree log, ( that required banging it hard, to resemble falling to the ground, in the forest, to begin production.) simply by placing a Portabello cap on top... (I stood the log, upright, in a large saucer, to keep it moisture level; ample)
There is an Italian supplier (Bavicchi?) that I used for Pioppino, that was available within the U.S quite inexpensively ( use search terms Italian Seeds + mushroom spawn, or spores) if in case it is the other Italian Seed source, here in the States, if you'd like to try those, with growing instructions...
Yes, they are from that seed brand co., through Italian seed and tool . They offer 5 varieties of edible mushroom spawn at $12.95,including the regular 'white button' kind, plus shipping, with the instructions located at the top of the online page, to place an order.
Once you get some seeds growing, you will never have to worry about starting any more seeds! My yard is almost 'weedy' with all the multi-colored 'rainbow' 4 o'clocks that seem to be perennials here as the large tap root regrows again each year. The pretty mixed colors on each flower as well as on the same plant are so fragrant & beautiful ... not as boring as the single colored varieties! The mixture of colors seems to get even more mixed with the years & I try & save as many seeds as possible to give to my neighbors & relatives. Good luck!
I have found the best way to start four o'clocks from seed are to plant in the fall. Just make sure you mark where they are. Sometimes they don't flower the first year. But, they are very aggressive once they get started and return year after year. They do readily reseed every year also.
The usual recommendation for hosta is, if no germination takes place in 3-4 weeks, move the sown seeds, moist, into the refrigerator or outside if appropriate climate/season where they will be exposed to temps of approx. 40F for 2-4 weeks. Then bring back to warmer for germination.
Hello Scarlet,
I bought other seeds online (picea, abies, laburnum,...) and each one had a full specification on how to grow. Very complete indeed.
I believe you should not put these seeds in the fridge.
I have the Eucaliptus in the photo in my garden (not the same kind of Eucaliptus) and this one is quite invasive. If you left the seeds in the soil they grow easily.
Let's see if with our seeds it works in the same way...
I am going to make an experience with 50% of the acorns I collected and put in the soil, as referred in this page:
http://anpsa.org.au/eucal2a.html
The others 50% I will just throw to the soil and wait.
Temperatures here in Portugal around 20 - 30 Celsius during this period of the year.
Fantastic site ampa62,
I'm going to try the bog method, fingers crossed! I will keep you posted on what happens ... or doesn't happen. The temps at the moment are so slowly receding at the moment we're at 70's range rather than 80's which is utterly wonderful in it's own right.
I really hope our seeds prove their worth here. Let me know how you get on with yours, it says general 2-3 weeks. That's hardly anything.
I'll start 2 tonight and see how we get on. :)
Scarlet
Hi Marly and welcome to GardenWeb!
Well, some seeds seem to germinate best in light and others germinate better in darkness. So, a lot would depend on what herbs youâÂÂre growing. You might find the link below helpful in that regard. Even when light is required for germination, very little is usually needed. I would think that if that opaque box is outside (but out of direct sunlight) enough light would be available to the seeds.
What you need to keep an eye on is the condensation within that box. If you see water droplets forming on the underside of the lid, itâÂÂs too wet (seeds might rot). A little moister is good, but not large water droplets.
If outside, make sure the box does not get too hot (75 degrees F. should be about right). Also, during the germination period, remove the lid once in awhile and let some fresh air into the box. Once the seeds start to sprout, the lid should be completely removed.
Hope this is helpful,
Art
Here is a link that might be useful: Light or darkness?
FWIW, I don't dead head my pansy or viola's. They have been forming seed pods which have been bursting all year. So mother nature is sowing them all summer for next spring.
What that means is sow whenever you are ready as they will germinate when conditions suit.
SCG
Hi All
Just wanted to give you an update on the Ipomea that you all gave me advice on.
I can't believe that i actually had some success with growing them , after years of not getting past the germination stage.
I found that i was planting them too early as the packet suggested, in April, I planted them end May and this seems to have worked, I found that they produced an abundance of leaves(first pic) and the flowers seemed to appear under the leaves so were very hard to notice among the dense foliage. Only a few flowers have come out, although there are many buds. I guess it's the Leeds climate!The same thing has happened with some cup and saucer seedlings. Lots of foliage and buds, but no flowers. I've added a couple of pics for you to see. Cheers and thanks for the advice it really helped.
After posting my questions, I saw there's also a forum on winter sowing.
If seeds of Cora or Cora Cascade vinca series are candidates for winter sowing, I'd be interested in learning about this as well as sowing it in the "regular" way.
If you think I should post this part of my questions in the forum on winter sowing, please let me know.
I have always had a hard time with asters, until last year. I tried Tower asters and they germinated really well. This year I sowed them again plus a different aster and again the towers germinated fine, the others, I think I have one that germinated.
I bought 8 different types of petunia seed this year, 5 of them I got close to 100% germination, the other three I got zilch. Which has never happened to me with petunias before. Avalanche Red, Denim Shockwave, and Baby Ducks - total loss.
It's weird how sometimes things work and others they don't! I have been using the farmer's almanac gardening by the moon this year just for fun and I haven't had any failures aside from forgetting to water something too long :( I actually have an Ipomopsis flowering now!! I also have some successful moonflower vines this year which I haven't had luck with in the past. I think if we keep trying we eventually are successful!
The blue/purple plant is Callistephus chinensis aka China Aster. The red is Begonia semperflorens.
Shame on me, I didn't take the time to look at the leaves! I just saw the flower and thought Dahlia, since mine are all in bloom right now! Yes, that is definitely a China Aster. A prime example of what not to do when identifying!