6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

You want soil heat for germination and cooler air temps for growing on. Ideal air temps for growing on tomatoes should be about 55-65 degrees. Helps keep them stockier; warmer air temps encourage leggy growth.

Is it normal? No. You have what are called "leggy seedlings" and the stems won't get thicker, won't be able to support any new leaves and will fall over and/or break if left on their own.

One thing that has not been mentioned is how long you left them under the plastic cover (if you used one) AFTER they broke the oil surface? If you let them do more than just break the surface of the soil under cover and before putting them under the light, then that is what caused your problem. As others have said, the heat and distance from the light is only magnifying the problem.

But they can be saved and to do so you must transplant them into deeper containers/cups, burying all of the stem right up to just barely below the seed leaves. Normally that transplanting is left until they have developed true leaves but those won't be able to hold up the weight of true leaves so they need to be done now. Roots will develop all along the buried stem and the new growth will be much stronger.

Once they are transplanted set them under the lights as close as possible. The leaves can actually be touching a bulbs with no problems but 1/2 inch between the leaf and the bulb itself is ideal. That will keep them from stretching again.

For more info on what causes this problem and how to prevent/correct it you can search 'leggy seedlings' here or on Google for details.

Good luck.

Dave

PS: you don't indicate your zone or location in your post so depending on where you live you may have time to start over for better results.

The above directions will help dry out the mix.

But, if you see any mold form on the top of the seed cells, all is not lost.

Use a 10:1 dilution of chamomile tea (10 parts water, 1 part chamomile tea) to lightly spray the top of the cells. ***Don't do this UNLESS there is mold/fungus on the top though.***

When you see all that moisture on the lid. Carefully remove it and wipe the moisture out. Keep doing this for a couple of days and they should be fine--or remove the lid and let the air dry the soil a bit. If you see the soil on top drying out you can spritz the soil a bit with a spray bottle

easy fix---

just have a grow light above your germinating area...no worries about stretching seedlings, or when to move.

m

Oops =) I did the same thing as Dave. I thought germinations of 8-14 days and 7-12 days was close enough to have in the same tray.. until those darn broccoli plants started shooting up after 3 days! Good thing I was reading up on it, I was going to just leave them where they were (small dark bathroom - it's the warmest place in the house). Unfortunately mine are in a flat so I guess I'll be transplanting them tonight =( It's my first year trying this, I'll know better for next year!

-T

I always use miracle grow for my seeds and usually get better plants from it than from regular potting soil. I suppose some seeds could be sensitive though, maybe just not what I grow. I'm inclined to believe your cactus aren't sprouting because those just may take forever to do so. If your seeds need light to germinate, you'd want to keep them well lit, but otherwise, some seeds won't germinate unless they are in the dark.

I grow morning glories every year, but those are ones I wait to plant where they will grow after the last frost, as they are difficult to transplant. Not saying it can't be done, I just don't usually bother because its hard. I have had difficulty in the past with egg cartons because of them not being deep enough, many of my seedlings just fell over before they could make true leaves. I never used the papery ones, only the plastic. I reuse the 6 packs I buy plants in for my seeds now.

The snow is finally melting and I'm in the mood for starting seeds. Styrofoam egg cartons are available and that's what I'll be using today. My question is about supplying light after the seeds germinate. Can you use a florescent light mounted over the trays? How many hours per day do you run the lights? I've made a cold frame with straw bales and an old glass window. How soon can I move the seedlings to this ?
Thanks for your help.
Jan

When I was in college we used them in our greenhouses and they seemed to work pretty well. We mostly used them to control fungus gnats, but many insects are attracted to yellow (aphids, thrips, whiteflys, etc). The cards probably won't rid you of a infestation, but may put a dent in it!

is it possible to use organic pesticides that won't harm the plant or do these not work that well?

OK thanks for the help. I like the idea of using something organic better than chemicals as well.

Where could I find a fish/seaweed type fertilizer?

Wait until they get a bit older, then use some Dyna Gro Foliage Pro 9-3-6. IMO, one of the best fertilizers available for any veggie plants. Start with a 1/2 strength dose at 5-6 weeks of age, then gradually work up to a full dose when about to place outdoors.

I agree with sleepy. Stay with something that won't be too strong on your seedlings, at least until they are in early adult stages.

I use MG potting soil for my seedlings and they do great. I do not fertilize them until they get in the ground or container in the Spring because MG comes with fertilizer in it already, as you know.

I have not compared it with using a Pro-Mix or other brand so I cannot say it is better or worse, but it works for me.

Keriann~

I also use large coffee cans with both ends cut out for wind protection for my tomatoes. They seem to do better with the coffee cans than with other methods I've tried.

Thanks for all the responses. trying to keep the rabbits and cut worms off my seedlings. I only have soup cans; don't do coffee, but I think I'll try rock guy's suggestion of the tin snips to widen them. I'm glad they'll still get plenty of sun.
Thanks all!
Susan

They are in the basement and started out great but I got overzealous with the watering can. Should the growlight be right on top of them, the same as tomatoes and peppers? I was watering from the bottom when the tops of the container looked dry. It wasnt down in the soil mix below. I have drastically cut back on water now. They did have second leaves and are now about 4inchs tall in 4inch pots. Hoping they will recover but started some backup anyway, dont know what ill do with 100 brocolli plants if they all survive, lol.....

Wow, yea you will have your hands full with all the broccoli! I would keep the light close to them the same as the others.

The info that came with my heating mat said not to put it on metal surfaces because of heat loss below, It said the best surface is styrofoam, cardboard or wood. I use a cardboard box lid flap to put mine on and it has worked well for 4 years now.

I suggest you take a cardboard box and cut it up to fit your shelves where you are going to put the mat. Put your plants that are in pots in a plastic tray and onto the mat and you are in business

i put mine on foil backed insulation. it comes in several size sheets and different thickness. you could cut a 4'x8' sheet into whatever size you needed.

If your setup is too hot try just putting a block of wood under each end to raise the container a bit. My grow mat is barely warm when I touch it, but after the containers are on it a while they are warm on the bottom when I pick them up.

By the way your paper pots are fine. I might have been thinking plastic when I wrote that

hank,

As mentioned before, the temps for germination will vary with plant types. Your temp range is basically ideal for peppers, eggplant and okra. If these are your target plants, then bravo! If not, you will want to decrease this temp a bit. Probably the easiest solution would be to just remove some of the length of the rope light. The more rope light that is submerged in the sand medium, the hotter it would be. The less submerged, the cooler it is.

According to tomclothier.hort.net, most plants optimum germination temp (highest % and shortest # of days) is 77 degrees.

NOTABLE EXCEPTION: Spinach - optimum temp 50 degrees. The germination rate drops to about 25% at 77 degrees.

digdirt...im in zone 7a, and am trying to grow eggplant from seed, indoors, and they dont seem to sprout. i have them on top of the refrigerator but its a new samsung and it doesnt seem to give alot of heat off.

can i simply start the seeds outdoors here? will they make it to fruiting, with the short season?

any advice from anyone is appreciated. thanks.

I sold eggplant plants at my farmer's market booth last year and had a few people come back and tell me their plants did well.

Andrea

Awesome pictures! Thank you for sharing.

What flowers have you started?.. maybe some in the first photo?

Let me know and I would love to see more :)

Keriann~

Thanks! The top photo is Marigolds then some Coleus, Snapdragons, Poppies and lots of vegetable stuff for the garden.