6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
There are different formulas for the pellet coating. Some seem to dissolve faster than others do. Like AL I just plant them as I would any seed but sometimes their contact with the damp soil may need to be "encouraged" just a bit.
Dave
Your HID lamp radiates light and heat much like the sun. For your seedlings they are benefiting mostly from the light and re-radiating into the air the heat that they have absorbed along with the light. The air movement from the fan provides a push against the growing seedling causing as a response a stiffening of the cells in the seedling. Many university tests have been done to show that a tree grown continually tightly staked will never develop a proper trunk to support the tree. Think of your seedling as a miniature tree! Al
There are usually some that never come up. a few genuses have as little as 80% germination rate. However that is not Tomatoes or leeks. I always plant a few more seeds than the number of plants I want.
Usually I give up when I'm ready to transplant the rest into bigger containers. The ones remaining may be duds or if they do sprout be weak plants. To hold off waiting for 1 or 2 that may never show would be detrimental to those that are already viable plants.
If you do transplant your tomatoes remove the seed leaves and sink them into the soil up to the first true leaves. They will grow roots all along the stem. This is not true of most other plants but with Tomatoes it is. Don't sink them when you set them out however. You don't want the roots down in cold soil.
There are lots of threads on this.
Please search this using utilizing the search field at the bottom of the home page of 'Growing from Seed Forum.' (Next to the Birthday Tab)
The majority of us will say RUN AWAY from peat pots.
They don't even make good compost unless you have a hot compost pile.
After reading the other threads and you still have questions, post it again.
Keriann~
Thanks for your response. The seed was planted about January 18th, and seems to be growing so slowly. I had started it in a small peat pot but have transplanted it all into a windowbox type planter which is about 24 inches long, 10 inches wide and about 10 inches deep. Its possible that the MG soil has too much nitrogen, but I have other things planted in that same medium and no problems. The lights are not hot to the touch, but maybe the lettuce only needs 10 hrs of light rather than 16? I dont have it planted to close to each other, so its not crowded,
Its just taking this so long to grow, but there is signs of growth, however so slow. I know you dont have a crystal ball, so thanks for the sugggestions.
This is my first time with seeds, so I am going to let it go for now and see what happens. I am finding everything is a learning experience!
jlum
Ooooh, pretty! I love ranunculus and dahlia; if we were going to be here beyond next year, I would love to have some dahlias. My nonstops are still struggling along; I've moved them out of the dreaded peat pots, so it's easier to manage the moisture levels. I think there should be a handful that pull through. The new ones I started have germinated; they're about the size of a pencil lead. I will hopefully do better with these guys. Sometimes I guess you just have to live and learn with these trickier seeds. Makes me really appreciate all the other seedlings that are so easy and forgiving. :)
I kept some of my dahlias in big pots last year and they did great! Maybe you could try that?
I love dahlias... they just keep blooming no matter what and make a great cut flower.
Keep your head up about your begonias. Tehy will be small but once outside in the spring they will take off!
Keriann~
Never done them but for what it is worth, I would assume you'd germinate them just as you would any other member of the Cucurbitaceae family - pre-soak briefly, plant 1/2" deep on edge (not flat) in moist but not wet potting mix and maintain 70-80 degree soil temp.
If you have enough seeds I'd pre-sprout a couple of them using the wet coffee filter/plastic bag method where you could more easily monitor germination.
Dave
for transplanting after the first true leaves come in.
Well I'm already on record as firm believer in bottom watering so I won't go into that part except to agree that it depends on the ProMix variety. ;)
But for growing-on mixes there are many available. Never used Schultz stuff as it isn't available around here but likely it is fine. I don't care for MG products for several reasons but some folks have reported excellent success with any of the MG with fertilizer in them. Exceptions: the one with Moisture Control shouldn't be used in self-watering containers and the Garden Soil shouldn't be used in ANY container.
Sta-Green is another brand and Walmart sells one under the name Expert Gardener that I have used in some large containers with good results. Fertilome is another brand that seems to get good reviews.
So if a fert-added mix is what you prefer I'd suggest trying a couple of different ones and see which you like best. Likely there isn't much difference between any of them.
My personal preference is to stick with the Pro-Mix BX and feed - only when necessary - with a diluted 1/2 strength liquid fertilizer, one that also contains micro-nutrients. Easy to do and that way I have more control over how much and how often the plants get it since they don't need much and since over-feeding is far more stressful on young seedling than is UNDER-feeding.
Dave
I only bottom water, both when the seeds are germinating and growing. It seems to be far better for the seedlings and I have never drowned a plant - even when I have forgotten to remove a tray and left it in the water overnight. The excess water drains off and the plants love it.
Mike
I would like to add a little modification to Dave's statement: "never seed more than one thing in the same tray."
While this is good advice, it is a bit overgeneralized. As Dave and others will note, even if you are starting all the same things, there can be variance of days up to a week for some seeds of the same type to all germinate. So while the rule of thumb is good, even planting all the same exact seeds can produce seeds at different times.
I would change it to never plant seeds with drastically different germination habits together.
If you start plants that all start in about the same amount of time at the same temperature together, that should produce seedlings with approximately the same germination time as each other.
On the other hand, marigolds and peppers would be a poor choice of plants to have together. Peppers are notoriously slow to germinate, sometimes even in the best of circumstances. Marigolds, however, germinate very easily and very quickly.
A combination of cole crops with lettuce works out pretty well as an example of different seed types that can work well together.
When the first seedlings come up, move the flat to a cooler, brighter location, and partially remove the cover. The others will still come along, but you will avoid "leggyness". As an aside, windowsills, generally, aren't the ideal spot either!
Transplant the marigolds even if they only have seed leaves. Marigold are tough and take transplanting easily. Marigolds have a big root system so make sure your containers are big enough. When you set them out separate the roots for the best blooms.
I think you may have started them too early. Marigolds only take about 6 weeks from planting to first blooms.Pinch off the first flower and they will branch out.
Peppers take quite some time to come up and do require a warm soil like stated by others.
Check your heating requirements and germination times if you are planting things together or better still give each thing it's own container.
I really hate to be a wet blanket here, well no I am enjoying this. I have a MG seed starting potting mix in front of me right now! I see no warnings any where about any heat registers. I do see step 4 "Keep moist and out of direct sunlight" Just a wild guess by me, but I do the same thing until the seeds sprout. That sounds like good advice to me. BTW it does work but I don"t like sphagnum moss products and won't be purchasing more.
Curt;)
Well they either added or did away with that instruction, because that's what #5 says unless my English is becoming suspect.
Like I said, they must have had a change of heart, but I'm not going to worry about it in any case.
Here is a link that might be useful: MG instructions
There has been so many mentions of these things on various forums lately that I finally had to break down and look it up just to see what they are. ;)
Congrats on your success. One tip to how to remove stuck seed coats - spit. Saliva enzymes will soften and dissolve the coat so that it will fall off. Just dab a bit of saliva on it and let it sit a bit then a bit more. Within a couple of hours it should fall off or be easy to remove.
Dave
Yes, under the lights just as soon as they break the soil surface. Bottom heat is needed only for the germination part as Keriann said.
Dave
Done. Thank you so much. These pepper seeds have been babied for days. I have some more in a coffee filter that is starting to show signs of life...a much easier method!
Thanks again!