6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
I would like to add a little modification to Dave's statement: "never seed more than one thing in the same tray."
While this is good advice, it is a bit overgeneralized. As Dave and others will note, even if you are starting all the same things, there can be variance of days up to a week for some seeds of the same type to all germinate. So while the rule of thumb is good, even planting all the same exact seeds can produce seeds at different times.
I would change it to never plant seeds with drastically different germination habits together.
If you start plants that all start in about the same amount of time at the same temperature together, that should produce seedlings with approximately the same germination time as each other.
On the other hand, marigolds and peppers would be a poor choice of plants to have together. Peppers are notoriously slow to germinate, sometimes even in the best of circumstances. Marigolds, however, germinate very easily and very quickly.
A combination of cole crops with lettuce works out pretty well as an example of different seed types that can work well together.
When the first seedlings come up, move the flat to a cooler, brighter location, and partially remove the cover. The others will still come along, but you will avoid "leggyness". As an aside, windowsills, generally, aren't the ideal spot either!
Transplant the marigolds even if they only have seed leaves. Marigold are tough and take transplanting easily. Marigolds have a big root system so make sure your containers are big enough. When you set them out separate the roots for the best blooms.
I think you may have started them too early. Marigolds only take about 6 weeks from planting to first blooms.Pinch off the first flower and they will branch out.
Peppers take quite some time to come up and do require a warm soil like stated by others.
Check your heating requirements and germination times if you are planting things together or better still give each thing it's own container.
I really hate to be a wet blanket here, well no I am enjoying this. I have a MG seed starting potting mix in front of me right now! I see no warnings any where about any heat registers. I do see step 4 "Keep moist and out of direct sunlight" Just a wild guess by me, but I do the same thing until the seeds sprout. That sounds like good advice to me. BTW it does work but I don"t like sphagnum moss products and won't be purchasing more.
Curt;)
Well they either added or did away with that instruction, because that's what #5 says unless my English is becoming suspect.
Like I said, they must have had a change of heart, but I'm not going to worry about it in any case.
Here is a link that might be useful: MG instructions
There has been so many mentions of these things on various forums lately that I finally had to break down and look it up just to see what they are. ;)
Congrats on your success. One tip to how to remove stuck seed coats - spit. Saliva enzymes will soften and dissolve the coat so that it will fall off. Just dab a bit of saliva on it and let it sit a bit then a bit more. Within a couple of hours it should fall off or be easy to remove.
Dave
75-85 is needed for germination but once germinated the heat pad, along with the cover, is normally removed. As mentioned in several other discussions here continued heat makes the soil too hot for young tender roots and can cook them.
Once germinated plants prefer much cooler temps for growing on - avg. of 55-65 degrees is ideal as it produces stocky, sturdy plants with root systems that can support the top growth rather than long lanky plants with small root balls.
Dave
Hi,
For my cold moist stratified seeds I don't use any different soil than my warm seeds(exm. tomatoes). I use a soilless mix(I like fafards or sungro)...just check at your local greenhouse...I am sure they will sell you what they use if they don't carry some of the name brands. Now, I do usually add chicken grit to my outside treatment containers...making a crumbly mix for good drainage. The chicken grit you can get at a feed store.
And don't worry about the mold...never had a problem with it. And I get my sharp sand at the concrete plant...more coarse with lots of rock sizes in it...many times I use this mixed into the soilless mix as well.
m
Here are a whole bunch of previous discussions on "leggy seedlings" if you want to read through them.
Primary case is insufficient light. It would be very difficult for just window light to be sufficient as most have discovered.
Second cause is too warm air and soil temperatures after germination. Since you waited for all to germinate, the ones that already had germinated got way too much heat and not enough light because the top was still in place. That is the problem with trying to start several different things in the same tray. Usual advice when that is done is to remove the cover and the heat source and move to intense light source just as soon as the first ones germinate. The rest will still come along if they were going to anyway.
Third cause is over-crowding of seedlings.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Leggy seedling discussions
Proof? No. It doesn't exist because there are far too many variables in your hypothesis - "larger seeds = better plant and better harvest" - to be able to prove it.
Opinions? Sure. Millions of them. ;) Post it on the Seed Saving forum or the Growing Tomatoes forum as it comes up for discussion both places now and then if you want to get opinions.
IMPO based on many years of growing tomatoes from seed - with the exceptions of very old seeds or very dessicated seeds or seeds that were improperly stored - it makes little or no difference. Instead it is the growing conditions provided, once germinated, that have the greatest impact on plant health and production.
Dave
I can not speak for garden stuff, but as an old wheat farmer. Tests made my selecting larger wheat seed by screening gave a slight improvement in yield. Stronger seedling. I think it was some thing like 5 percent. I am not saying that this would carry over to future generations. I will leave that opinion to the experts.
KennyP
This is actually a flourescent light (24" 17w). The color is pinkish but the color temp. is supposed to be 8000K. Of course, there's no real industry standard for color temps. but it sure isn't the relatively stark white of a daylight 6500K or 10000K. My guess is that, like the 9325 GE bulb so extravagantly praised by planted tank enthusiasts, it doesn't have much in the yellow/green spectrum, but instead relies on blue and red.
Well I'm very excited about the new store in Petaluma! Calistoga, isn't it great?????
Army- If the catalogue makes you drool (exactly my words! LOL) the store is even better! Not just seeds, but tools, herbal concoctions, gopher cages, bath salts etc etc etc!
court- I'm planning on using the envelopes to frame!
LOVE LOVE LOVE BC!
A couple of weeks ago, I wrote Randel about my fair project where I plan to grow more than 30 types of veggies in a raised bed or containers. I was hoping to get a discount on the seeds since this is a non-profit group and the display is not to garner ribbons but show a variety of plants.
Not only did he give me a discount, he sent me them all totally free! Even included some packages that I had bought from him a year or two ago, giving me fresh seeds.
FWIW, I get every seed I need from him, unless he doesn't carry them.
Now I have to figure out all the Days to Maturity so I know when to sow them in order for them to be mature by the middle of August.
Mike
for transplanting after the first true leaves come in.
Well I'm already on record as firm believer in bottom watering so I won't go into that part except to agree that it depends on the ProMix variety. ;)
But for growing-on mixes there are many available. Never used Schultz stuff as it isn't available around here but likely it is fine. I don't care for MG products for several reasons but some folks have reported excellent success with any of the MG with fertilizer in them. Exceptions: the one with Moisture Control shouldn't be used in self-watering containers and the Garden Soil shouldn't be used in ANY container.
Sta-Green is another brand and Walmart sells one under the name Expert Gardener that I have used in some large containers with good results. Fertilome is another brand that seems to get good reviews.
So if a fert-added mix is what you prefer I'd suggest trying a couple of different ones and see which you like best. Likely there isn't much difference between any of them.
My personal preference is to stick with the Pro-Mix BX and feed - only when necessary - with a diluted 1/2 strength liquid fertilizer, one that also contains micro-nutrients. Easy to do and that way I have more control over how much and how often the plants get it since they don't need much and since over-feeding is far more stressful on young seedling than is UNDER-feeding.
Dave
I only bottom water, both when the seeds are germinating and growing. It seems to be far better for the seedlings and I have never drowned a plant - even when I have forgotten to remove a tray and left it in the water overnight. The excess water drains off and the plants love it.
Mike