6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

for transplanting after the first true leaves come in.

Well I'm already on record as firm believer in bottom watering so I won't go into that part except to agree that it depends on the ProMix variety. ;)

But for growing-on mixes there are many available. Never used Schultz stuff as it isn't available around here but likely it is fine. I don't care for MG products for several reasons but some folks have reported excellent success with any of the MG with fertilizer in them. Exceptions: the one with Moisture Control shouldn't be used in self-watering containers and the Garden Soil shouldn't be used in ANY container.

Sta-Green is another brand and Walmart sells one under the name Expert Gardener that I have used in some large containers with good results. Fertilome is another brand that seems to get good reviews.

So if a fert-added mix is what you prefer I'd suggest trying a couple of different ones and see which you like best. Likely there isn't much difference between any of them.

My personal preference is to stick with the Pro-Mix BX and feed - only when necessary - with a diluted 1/2 strength liquid fertilizer, one that also contains micro-nutrients. Easy to do and that way I have more control over how much and how often the plants get it since they don't need much and since over-feeding is far more stressful on young seedling than is UNDER-feeding.

Dave

    Bookmark     February 26, 2010 at 1:04AM
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wordwiz

I only bottom water, both when the seeds are germinating and growing. It seems to be far better for the seedlings and I have never drowned a plant - even when I have forgotten to remove a tray and left it in the water overnight. The excess water drains off and the plants love it.

Mike

    Bookmark     February 26, 2010 at 7:38AM
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eaglesgarden(6b - se PA)

I would like to add a little modification to Dave's statement: "never seed more than one thing in the same tray."

While this is good advice, it is a bit overgeneralized. As Dave and others will note, even if you are starting all the same things, there can be variance of days up to a week for some seeds of the same type to all germinate. So while the rule of thumb is good, even planting all the same exact seeds can produce seeds at different times.

I would change it to never plant seeds with drastically different germination habits together.

If you start plants that all start in about the same amount of time at the same temperature together, that should produce seedlings with approximately the same germination time as each other.

On the other hand, marigolds and peppers would be a poor choice of plants to have together. Peppers are notoriously slow to germinate, sometimes even in the best of circumstances. Marigolds, however, germinate very easily and very quickly.

A combination of cole crops with lettuce works out pretty well as an example of different seed types that can work well together.

When the first seedlings come up, move the flat to a cooler, brighter location, and partially remove the cover. The others will still come along, but you will avoid "leggyness". As an aside, windowsills, generally, aren't the ideal spot either!

    Bookmark     February 25, 2010 at 2:26PM
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oilpainter(3)

Transplant the marigolds even if they only have seed leaves. Marigold are tough and take transplanting easily. Marigolds have a big root system so make sure your containers are big enough. When you set them out separate the roots for the best blooms.

I think you may have started them too early. Marigolds only take about 6 weeks from planting to first blooms.Pinch off the first flower and they will branch out.

Peppers take quite some time to come up and do require a warm soil like stated by others.

Check your heating requirements and germination times if you are planting things together or better still give each thing it's own container.

    Bookmark     February 25, 2010 at 6:31PM
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curt_grow

I really hate to be a wet blanket here, well no I am enjoying this. I have a MG seed starting potting mix in front of me right now! I see no warnings any where about any heat registers. I do see step 4 "Keep moist and out of direct sunlight" Just a wild guess by me, but I do the same thing until the seeds sprout. That sounds like good advice to me. BTW it does work but I don"t like sphagnum moss products and won't be purchasing more.
Curt;)

    Bookmark     February 25, 2010 at 3:37PM
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veryzer

Well they either added or did away with that instruction, because that's what #5 says unless my English is becoming suspect.

Like I said, they must have had a change of heart, but I'm not going to worry about it in any case.

Here is a link that might be useful: MG instructions

    Bookmark     February 25, 2010 at 4:08PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

There has been so many mentions of these things on various forums lately that I finally had to break down and look it up just to see what they are. ;)

Congrats on your success. One tip to how to remove stuck seed coats - spit. Saliva enzymes will soften and dissolve the coat so that it will fall off. Just dab a bit of saliva on it and let it sit a bit then a bit more. Within a couple of hours it should fall off or be easy to remove.

Dave

    Bookmark     February 23, 2010 at 11:25PM
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hoagc(5 NW Ohio)

Thanks digdirt...i'll try that. It doesn't look like it's gonna come off on its own, so I guess I have to try something haha.

    Bookmark     February 24, 2010 at 8:47PM
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joytwo1839(z6 TN)

Mike, that is very interesting. First was he in NC or Ga and second were the seed sown with the tobacco seeds under cover or in the field?.

    Bookmark     February 23, 2010 at 10:20AM
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daburke

YES Dave, thanks again, your information to Joy is helpful to me also.
Tim

    Bookmark     February 24, 2010 at 10:28AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Agree with Al about the vibration but I doubt your dryer top would get hot enough to get the soil "too warm". More likely it isn't warm enough. ;)

Dave

    Bookmark     February 22, 2010 at 10:50AM
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rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7

Plus, the dryer doesn't run 24 hours a day. Soil temperature should remain consistently warm until germination occurs. Soil should be warm while the air temperatures can be downright chilly.

    Bookmark     February 24, 2010 at 9:01AM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

75-85 is needed for germination but once germinated the heat pad, along with the cover, is normally removed. As mentioned in several other discussions here continued heat makes the soil too hot for young tender roots and can cook them.

Once germinated plants prefer much cooler temps for growing on - avg. of 55-65 degrees is ideal as it produces stocky, sturdy plants with root systems that can support the top growth rather than long lanky plants with small root balls.

Dave

    Bookmark     February 23, 2010 at 6:44PM
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dave0538(7)

Thanks very much guys - I appreciate it!

    Bookmark     February 23, 2010 at 8:07PM
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naturemitch(3/4 WI)

Hi,

For my cold moist stratified seeds I don't use any different soil than my warm seeds(exm. tomatoes). I use a soilless mix(I like fafards or sungro)...just check at your local greenhouse...I am sure they will sell you what they use if they don't carry some of the name brands. Now, I do usually add chicken grit to my outside treatment containers...making a crumbly mix for good drainage. The chicken grit you can get at a feed store.

And don't worry about the mold...never had a problem with it. And I get my sharp sand at the concrete plant...more coarse with lots of rock sizes in it...many times I use this mixed into the soilless mix as well.

m

    Bookmark     February 22, 2010 at 8:21PM
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dicot

I use 75% vermiculite, 25% coarse, washed sand and I douse the container & mix with 3% hydrogen peroxide. It makes for easy mixing into a seed starting mix for flats or cells.

    Bookmark     February 23, 2010 at 5:01PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Here are a whole bunch of previous discussions on "leggy seedlings" if you want to read through them.

Primary case is insufficient light. It would be very difficult for just window light to be sufficient as most have discovered.

Second cause is too warm air and soil temperatures after germination. Since you waited for all to germinate, the ones that already had germinated got way too much heat and not enough light because the top was still in place. That is the problem with trying to start several different things in the same tray. Usual advice when that is done is to remove the cover and the heat source and move to intense light source just as soon as the first ones germinate. The rest will still come along if they were going to anyway.

Third cause is over-crowding of seedlings.

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: Leggy seedling discussions

    Bookmark     February 23, 2010 at 2:29PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Proof? No. It doesn't exist because there are far too many variables in your hypothesis - "larger seeds = better plant and better harvest" - to be able to prove it.

Opinions? Sure. Millions of them. ;) Post it on the Seed Saving forum or the Growing Tomatoes forum as it comes up for discussion both places now and then if you want to get opinions.

IMPO based on many years of growing tomatoes from seed - with the exceptions of very old seeds or very dessicated seeds or seeds that were improperly stored - it makes little or no difference. Instead it is the growing conditions provided, once germinated, that have the greatest impact on plant health and production.

Dave

    Bookmark     February 23, 2010 at 10:24AM
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colokid(5)

I can not speak for garden stuff, but as an old wheat farmer. Tests made my selecting larger wheat seed by screening gave a slight improvement in yield. Stronger seedling. I think it was some thing like 5 percent. I am not saying that this would carry over to future generations. I will leave that opinion to the experts.
KennyP

    Bookmark     February 23, 2010 at 10:28AM
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wordwiz

Far red light inhibits germination of most seeds and incandescent lights typically output more FR light than another other bulb. I would avoid them.

YMMV,

Mike

    Bookmark     February 22, 2010 at 9:50PM
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veryzer

This is actually a flourescent light (24" 17w). The color is pinkish but the color temp. is supposed to be 8000K. Of course, there's no real industry standard for color temps. but it sure isn't the relatively stark white of a daylight 6500K or 10000K. My guess is that, like the 9325 GE bulb so extravagantly praised by planted tank enthusiasts, it doesn't have much in the yellow/green spectrum, but instead relies on blue and red.

    Bookmark     February 22, 2010 at 11:58PM
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ninjabut(USDA z 8,CA)

Well I'm very excited about the new store in Petaluma! Calistoga, isn't it great?????
Army- If the catalogue makes you drool (exactly my words! LOL) the store is even better! Not just seeds, but tools, herbal concoctions, gopher cages, bath salts etc etc etc!
court- I'm planning on using the envelopes to frame!
LOVE LOVE LOVE BC!

    Bookmark     February 20, 2010 at 8:48PM
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wordwiz

A couple of weeks ago, I wrote Randel about my fair project where I plan to grow more than 30 types of veggies in a raised bed or containers. I was hoping to get a discount on the seeds since this is a non-profit group and the display is not to garner ribbons but show a variety of plants.

Not only did he give me a discount, he sent me them all totally free! Even included some packages that I had bought from him a year or two ago, giving me fresh seeds.

FWIW, I get every seed I need from him, unless he doesn't carry them.

Now I have to figure out all the Days to Maturity so I know when to sow them in order for them to be mature by the middle of August.

Mike

    Bookmark     February 22, 2010 at 3:32PM
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sarahbarah27(5)

I can't believe that! I have to go see if anything is poking up in my garden...its really early though...I don't even think the hellebore is budding yet! I really can't wait for Spring!!!

    Bookmark     February 22, 2010 at 10:27AM
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sarahbarah27(5)

Well, i just went out and looked at some of the gardens and sure enough...the Daffodils in one of the raised beds are popping up! And the Hellebore are beginning to pop open as well! Spring IS coming!!!

    Bookmark     February 22, 2010 at 2:05PM
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keriann_lakegeneva(5B WI/IL border)

They really don't like being transplanted, so that would be my guess.

I bet they are just 'mad' and will bounce back soon.

Remember extra water does not help that will just welcome mold and dampening disease.

Keriann~

    Bookmark     February 21, 2010 at 3:21PM
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judiohz5

keriann, thanks for the info. I didn't know they are so touchy about transplanting. I'll try sowing some in situ.
judi

    Bookmark     February 21, 2010 at 7:21PM
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calistoga_al ca 15 usda 9

Be sure your plants are not being eaten by slugs, who are really good at removing seed leaves, without leaving a trace. Al

    Bookmark     February 21, 2010 at 9:49AM
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debbiekim(6)

thanks, everyone!

they were joe pye weed seeds in seed starting mix. some of them have sprouted and are looking good. i think the surface may have been too dry.

    Bookmark     February 21, 2010 at 5:22PM
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