6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
Onions are no different than any other seeds when it comes to containers. ;) The Container FAQ here offers many suggestions and a picture of many and they will all work for onions too.
Link below is to a previous discussion with even more suggestions unless you want to invest in more professional seed starting set-ups. Search 'container' for even more discussions and ideas.
As to number of seeds - onions are usually sowed quite thickly and then thinned as needed or transplanted so you can just scatter sow the seeds all over the top of you soil in whatever size container you choose to use.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Favorite seed starting continers to use discussion
obrio that's a pretty descent size of container for onions. I am also using the same size and i am happy with it.
As far as seeds quantity is concerned, i always sow the seeds in heavy density as Dave mentioned so the question of how many seeds becomes pointless :)
Thanks all...I scraped off the mold, carefully as not to spread it around, brought the plants inside from the garage adn have been airing them with the fan. They probably were holding onto too much water since it's been so chilly and damp here!! It's not reoccurring, so hopefully I've got it before it got too bad.
Thanks for all the good advice (and for the compliment on my baby Flame tomato :)
Krazy Karma-
I have been really happy with the following heirloom / non gmo seed merchants:
Woops ! Lets set some things straight here. This thread is full of errors. Most hybrids are not sterile. Rememeber if they were sterile they could not pollinate themselves in straight stands where hybrids are often grown. Its true you can have a sterile hybrid (interspecific hybridization/nuclear sterility genes, etc) but to paint all hybrids sterile is a gross mis-interpretation.
Heritage lines breed true ? Nooo - heritage refers to the perceived origin of the plant. Just because the population it derives from was developed in the last century has nothing to do with its mode of reproduction which is the driving force on the genetic structure of the population and determines whether it is genetically uniform, or not. If you have a largely self pollinating plant like pea - it can maintain genetic continuity and stability over time. Out crosssing plants (corn/pumpkin)are extremely difficult to maintain in pure state without controlled pollinations unless they are growing in strict isolation. So, the bottom line is that a heritage label has very little to do with genetic continuity across generations. It follows that genetic purity is NOT a broad result of heritage/antique labelled material. Rather the opposite. Often such material is diverse in genetic background because of ad-mixtures, outcrosssing, segregating material, accumulated mutations and more... all this speaks to diverse germplasm not purity and uniformity.
GMO=genetically modified organism. Most GMO's are mans insertions of genetic material into the genome of another recipient plant. The donor can be from the same or another species.
Organic production is the PROCESS of production. Whether a cultivar is labelled as "heritage" or "antique" has little to do with process and much to do with provenance/origin and handling of the germplasm over its history. Its true, but confusing, that organic standards impose restrictions and requirements on cultivars that qualify for "organic labelling". However, these seed source restrictions are aimed at excluding certain material deemed to be undesirable. Less to do with directly qualifying the source as more desirable than another. Yes, I know some ideological purists will not agree. However, you can grow a GMO modified plant in an organic production system - it will not qualify for organic labelling, but it will have been grown organically. Confused - so is the rest of the world. So are the standards.
Back to seed prices. Driving factors in price increases are rapidly escalating costs of shipping and regulatory/legal compliance.
Just my two cents on brands... I am a huge fan of the APS seed starting system put out by Gardener's Supply Co. They have self-watering trays which is a (literal) lifesaver for someone like me who constantly forgets to water! They are great for maintaining just the right moisture levels all the time, and you just have to check the base trays once a week or so to make sure they still have water in them.
I've started seeds both in them and in other containers (like peat pots, styrofoam cups, etc.) and the ones in the APS units always grow the best... I'm sure if I was better at this whole thing, the results would be more equal, but it's nice having a foolproof system when you're still new at seed starting!
Dave's link will be helpful, so check out the FAQ's.
My two cents: I personally find that the peat pellet greenhouses work excellent! I usually get about 80-90% of the seeds (for tomatoes) to germinate within 10 days. The things you have to remember for the peat pellet greenhouses to work are that you must keep the pellets fully wet, as they soak up a ton of water. That is not hard to do if you keep the dome/lid on, as moisture will not escape very easily and you'll find that you really only need to re-water them once or twice. Also, watch for white mold that looks like spider webbing. After a few days with the dome on, you may very well get some of this. If that happens, remove it by hand & let the pellets air out a bit by propping the dome open just slightly. It's recommended that the greenhouse also be kept in a warm dark place. I agree with this to a point. Once you have about a third to a half of the seeds sprouted, you will want to keep the dome on about half of the day, but move the greenhouse to a lighted location (sun or artificial is fine at this point), but not too sunny/lighted as this is the first time the wee seedlings have seen any light. Once most of the seeds sprout, remove the dome for good. I only keep the seedlings in the peat pellets for that initial period of between 7-14 days, depending upon tomato variety, as the peat pellet is not a good seedling growing medium, only good for seed starting. Once the seedling has been pointing straight up for 2-3 days and gets to be about an inch and a half or so in height, then I transplant it to a semi-translucent plastic cup (a lot of people prefer Styrofoam cups). When transplanting to the cup, make sure to remove the lining around the pellet. Also, very carefully soften the peat around the plant, then pot up until only about a half to a full inch of the seedling is showing. I then place the seedlings, in their cups, in a sunny windowsill. This advice works great for any pellet/greenhouse/dome structure. The main thing to remember is that these pellet greenhouses (or peat cups/pots, etc.) are only for seed starting and are not very good at all for seedlings growth. The same goes for peppers & other veggies, but time for germination will obviously vary. If you prefer to just stay away from the peat items all together, like Dave says, you can just start the seeds in the cups, bypassing that stage. I have had ok/varied results doing it that way.
Regarding grow lights, a lot of people swear by them, but I never use them and still have great results. If you don't use them, you just really need a good bit of indoor sunny space for the seedlings.
If you find a well working germination method like I do, you don't really need many seeds, but it's all in the gardener's method/opinion. For example, I used a 25 peat pellet greenhouse to start most of my tomato seeds in this year. I put 4 seeds in each pellet. I had about 90% of the total seeds germinate. I simply let all the seeds sprout and then "thinned out"/pulled the weaker looking ones (ended up being about 50 that I pulled) until I was left with the best looking seedling in each pellet which then were potted up with the method I explained above. Some people don't like to do this though b/c it's a slight waste of seed. It's really a matter of personal choice/opinion.
Anyways, hope some of this info helps. Regarding the Roma's, 3-5 plants max, well taken care of, would give you enough tomatoes to can, eat fresh & more.
- Steve
Hi, the shelves are fixed so I raise and lower with odd wood and styrafoam, the top lights can be raised and lowered but it is easier just to raise the trays. I don't really mind, when the lights are all on it is super bright and spending time playing with all the seedlings makes me happy. Last year I got a heavy duty metal rack with ajustable shelves for larger plants, but I need to get more lights. If I had my way I would have and entire green house down in my basement, wouldn't hyrdo love me then? frogged
Homegrown -
I do often take notes, and have definately learned from my mistakes! Last year I planted a huge amount of onions. Which would have been fine, had I not planted them all at the same time. I had onions up to my eyeballs all at one time. Definately learned a lesson there, and will plant my seedlings to reflect that. :)
Kim
taking notes of what you plant and time to germinate is very helpful unless you have a great memory.I have a room in my basement to start the seeds and this month will take some of them out to the GH. Most of the time my seeds will be blooming just like the ones you buy at the store.
Here is a link that might be useful: Gardening by the Seat of my Pants
Maybe this link will help you!
Here is a link that might be useful: Germination database
Agree, the gaillarda should germinate within 21 days at approx 70F
Rudbekia (BES?) is much like echinacea, may or may not need a moist chill.
Rudbeckia fulgida, hirta, and maxima , Sow at 68ºF, if no germination in 3-4 weeks, move to 39ºF for 2-4 weeks
Rudbeckia laciniata, nitida, occidentalis, and purpurea , Sow at 68ºF, germination slow
Why are you starting apples from seed, just an experiment? Every modern apple is a grafted variety or a clone of a known variety of apple. Growing from seed you have very little idea of what kind of fruit or rootstock you will have for a several year experiment. Not that experiments are bad.
Some apples make great root stock if you want standard size trees. After a year or two you can graft the apple of your choice on your "home grown" root stock. Here where we get no summer rain and must dry farm, a really aggressive root stock is a must, but not usually available on nursery grown trees. Al
If they have 2002 on the seed package then that's when they were packed. That means they are 8 years old and if they were not stored right you might not get any.
The test for tomatoes is to cull the immature seed from the ripe seed. If you want to test these seeds without planting them, then you can sprout them in a wet paper towel, but if they sprout you will have to plant them.
That's not a test I'd use with any confidence. Some seeds float simply because they are so light for their size. I recently started some callirhoe. These seeds came from my garden rather than a commercial package, so I was really concerned when they ALL floated when I poured the hot water over them. (They need a hot water soak prior to cold stratification). In fact, even though I knew the floater test isn't foolproof, I panicked and ordered some commercial callirhoe-- and then my personal seeds germinated upon removal from cold stratification. So, I guess I'm going to have lots an lots of callirhoe! The same is true for rose seeds, btw. Floaters germinate at a lower rate than the "sinkers," but many do still germinate, so I no longer bother to separate mine out.
Agree - its damp off. In addition to the fan, cut way back on the water. The soil surface needs to dry out before you water so "keeping them moist" is only adding to the problem. "Moist" is needed for germination but not for growing on. ;)
Check out the FAQ here on preventing damp-off.
Dave
I actually went the really cheap route... I had a clothes drying rack lying around, the kind with the horizontal bars, about four feet tall. I suspended the light from chains, and it hangs below the lowest bar. 100 percent free. And serves more than one purpose!
Kim
Free is good!
DH is on the search for chains to hang the (FREE) lights from. I think we're set. Will be building the set up this rainy weekend!