6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
Agree, the gaillarda should germinate within 21 days at approx 70F
Rudbekia (BES?) is much like echinacea, may or may not need a moist chill.
Rudbeckia fulgida, hirta, and maxima , Sow at 68ºF, if no germination in 3-4 weeks, move to 39ºF for 2-4 weeks
Rudbeckia laciniata, nitida, occidentalis, and purpurea , Sow at 68ºF, germination slow
Why are you starting apples from seed, just an experiment? Every modern apple is a grafted variety or a clone of a known variety of apple. Growing from seed you have very little idea of what kind of fruit or rootstock you will have for a several year experiment. Not that experiments are bad.
Some apples make great root stock if you want standard size trees. After a year or two you can graft the apple of your choice on your "home grown" root stock. Here where we get no summer rain and must dry farm, a really aggressive root stock is a must, but not usually available on nursery grown trees. Al
If they have 2002 on the seed package then that's when they were packed. That means they are 8 years old and if they were not stored right you might not get any.
The test for tomatoes is to cull the immature seed from the ripe seed. If you want to test these seeds without planting them, then you can sprout them in a wet paper towel, but if they sprout you will have to plant them.
That's not a test I'd use with any confidence. Some seeds float simply because they are so light for their size. I recently started some callirhoe. These seeds came from my garden rather than a commercial package, so I was really concerned when they ALL floated when I poured the hot water over them. (They need a hot water soak prior to cold stratification). In fact, even though I knew the floater test isn't foolproof, I panicked and ordered some commercial callirhoe-- and then my personal seeds germinated upon removal from cold stratification. So, I guess I'm going to have lots an lots of callirhoe! The same is true for rose seeds, btw. Floaters germinate at a lower rate than the "sinkers," but many do still germinate, so I no longer bother to separate mine out.
Agree - its damp off. In addition to the fan, cut way back on the water. The soil surface needs to dry out before you water so "keeping them moist" is only adding to the problem. "Moist" is needed for germination but not for growing on. ;)
Check out the FAQ here on preventing damp-off.
Dave
If you mean bulbettes that grow out of the original bulb, sure. You don't have to separate them the first year they appear though.
If you mean cutting the bulbs into like 8 or 16 sections, I know that can be done with hippeastrum, but I am not sure about amaryllis. You do do some search. If amaryllis belongs to onion family like hippeastrum does, then you can probably do it.
But depending on where you live, if might be easier to just leave them outside until they multiply, and then you can divide them.
a1chemyst,
There is also a Amaryllis/Hippeastrum Forum here if you'd like to check it out. They would, more than likely, be able to answer any questions you still might have.
Larkspur is one of the plants that reseeds itself in the fall in my zone 6b PA garden. It did also in my zone 6 Cleveland garden. I suggest you try scattering some seed now where you want them to grow and let nature do it for you. I was out raking yesterday and see that some Larkspur is up and growing already. The frigid temps, snow, and ice to come won't hurt these seedlings. They'll hunker down and ride it out. If you want to use the belt and suspenders approach start some seed indoors as backup.
Just a note, if you have a heavy mulch down you won't get reseeding later this year. The mulch will keep the seed from coming into contact with the soil.
Good Luck.
Yeah, the cost of little extras can really mount up. I bought ten four foot fluorescent light fixtures for $3.99 each, but they didn't come with a cord. I went to home depot and they want $5.97 for a cord with a plug on it, which is more than I paid for the light fixtures. I spent quite some time searching for power cords on the internet and found a place that had some over-run cords for 95 cents each, but they wanted $11 to ship them. I finally decided to cut the cords off a bunch of old electric typewriters and other electronic equipment and use them.
And you are right, the cheapest fluorescent fixtures and bulbs are 4 footers. Strange pricing that a two foot bulb would cost more than a four footer.
Here's a pic and details on a small light set up I ran across on another discussion. Uses a white plastic bucket and one CFL (compact fluorescent light bulb). You can make the same sort of set up with a cardboard box lined with foil too.
Good for small numbers of plants but it is so cheap to make that several wouldn't cost much to put together.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Small seed starter set-up
I have one that has been outdoors since last Fall & has weathered several frosts quite fine (still has a lot of green foliage). Is this a normal trait of the plant? When I received it at a plant swap, I didn't know much about it.
- Steve
I always use warmth mats & grow lights when I start from seed. Lettuce, onions, tomatoes, cucumbers, etc. They always do well as long as I don't neglect them once I put them outside.
My cat has NO problem dragging a rabbit almost as big as he is to the back door. I feel bad for the rabbit, but my garden is happy!
Here is a link to our FAQs here with lots of information to help you.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Growing from Seed FAQs
I am trying to start plants from seeds for the first time this spring...Under lights in my small greenhouse. Please give me helpful hints on prevention of leggy seedlings and the damping off fungus. Thanks Lynda
Hi Lynda - all of this is covered in the FAQs here linked on the forum front page. I'll link it below to make it easier.
The main key to preventing leggy seedlings is enough light kept very close to the plants. If using fluorescents, that means no more than 1-2" above the plants. Avoid damp-off by avoiding over-watering, don't let it get too warm inside, and providing enough air circulation - most use a small fan of some type near the plants.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Growing from Seed FAQs
The average gardener usually does not have the space or light source required to grow the plants indoors for that long. It takes a lot of space, good light and good air circulation to bring healthy seedlings to the bud or bloom stage.
The seed company probably sets the guidelines to ensure the success of the largest number of gardeners.
That is true. I am lucky to have lots of space available, and an unheated greenhouse to move them into when the temperature rises enough to allow me too (sometime in early to mid March). It does take up a lot of space! Especially when they get transplanted from cell packs to 4 inch pots.
Just pat them into the soil gently. not covered! they need good soil contact and light to start growing. Mist to keep moist and wait!