6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
3) As long as they do not burn the plant, they are not too close.
2) I do but you do not have to. The idea of reflective material (Mylar) or white walls is to, uh, reflect light back on the plants, thus reducing the need for more lumens.
1) Last year, two 105-watt bulbs (6,900 lumens each) provided enough light for about 20-24 sq. ft. but I used Mylar on the top and sides.
YMMV,
Mike
I ran across the site below when trying to identify some seeds that I had received in a trade. It says it is from tropical Africa, but it doesn't set seed even in Florida, so the author is assuming that Florida doesn't have the right pollinator. I would think that it could be hand-pollinated... maybe...
But the author says "it occasionally pops up for sale at large retail garden centers so keep your eye peeled for it!"
It is listed at Plants of Perfection: http://www.plantsofperfection.com/Cristinas_Collection.html
And Glasshouse Works: http://glasshouseworks.com/trop-t.html
Sue
Here is a link that might be useful: Growing Thunbergia battiscombei
It may be an albino. Last spring I had started some lavender seeds and one of them was an albino, it grew for a little while and then it fizzled out. Albino plants lack chlorophyll which is needed for the production of food. An albino seedling will last only as long as the food stored in the seed is available.
Are those avocado trees planted in the ground? Since you live in Texas, which soil tends to be strongly alkaline, you could be having a problem with an iron deficiency called chlorosis. If that is what it is, you'd best do something about it, or all the others will go the same way and eventually die.
One site is below, but if you google 'treat chlorosis' a lot of stuff will show up. I think you can add stuff to the soil, and/or spray on the leaves.
Sue
Here is a link that might be useful: Plant Answers / Treating Chlorosis
Cheyboygan's frost dates are 5-30 (last) and 9-25 (first).
Traverse City's dates are 6-9 and 9-17. You are between them.
Of the two, Traverse City's is the shortest season, so unless you have something that makes your area colder than that, those dates should be relatively safe for you. Just keep in mind that the frost dates listed for ANYWHERE are just averages, they aren't engraved in stone. Keep an eye on the weather report, and if a frost is expected, run out and cover your seedlings (except for cole crops, which should be okay).
Or, contact your most-local Cooperative Extension Service and ask:
Phone: 517-355-2308
Toll Free:1-888-MSUE-4MI (1-888-678-3464)
Fax: 517-355-6473
(their email address info was having problems)
Sue
Al, I have a light meter, but my question is will there be enough natural sunlight in February to grow my seedlings correctly without any artificial lighting. I have several options outside for my plants. One is a heated GH with clear plastic panels. One is a hoop house with no heat and I am building a portable GH to use just for my seedlings. I am starting my annuals real early this year so they will be more the size of those at HD etc. I want to grow them out, but worry about the amount of sun available this time of the year.
grow-anything,
Try this link:
light needed and see if the annuals you are growing are listed.
Use your light meter and check the readings inside the GH several different times in the next couple of weeks, at whatever level the plants will be at, so you get an idea of the average lux or foot candles. Then visit the Growing Under Lights section of this forum and check out the thread titled "Are my plants getting enough red light?"
As stated, keep your temps in the GH low and don't give your plants lots of water and ferts high in Nitrogen if you are not getting lots of light.
Mike
I've grown bacopa from seed. It needs light to germinate. The seed should not be covered but the seed starting cotainer needs to be covered to retain humidity. The seed pellets may need misting, so that the seedlings can break through the coating. Start 10-12 weeks before your last frost date. My seeds often yielded more than one plant per pellet, which I seperated into single plants for growing on.
Like petunias and begonias from seed, bacopa seems to have poor seedling vigor. Keep your conditions constant. Don't let it dry out, but don't overwater.
I've had enough success to keep on growing it. Hope this helps.
Karen
You're welcome, g'nut!
Yup, an entire table would be nice. I just grab a calendar and keep changing the date on the guide forward a week so at a time until I have the entire planting and transplanting schedule done and attached to my plant stand before I even sow one seed. Well, everything I don't winter sow, anyway - that way is so much easier, but I still need something green inside to coddle when it's still so cold. lol.
If starting indoors, buy a bag of seed starting mix. It will be sterile, often made of fine peat and vermiculite.
You can use the potting/container mix if starting outdoors. Top the pot with a little chick grit (in a pinch, look for a box of parakeet gravel at the pet section of your grocery store) or vermiculite, will prevent a rain from moving the seeds around and will prevent a crust forming should the top layer dry out.
From banana seed sites! I have about 22 different types, none of them seem easy to germinate, at least not in 8-10 weeks.
Balbisiana Banana
Giant Nepal Banana
Thomson's Edible Banana
Royal Sweet Banana
Giant Yunnan Banana
Musa Coccinea ( Scarlet Banana )
Musa Ensete ( Ethiopian Banana )
Musa x. Paradisiaca ( Dwarf Cavendish Edible Banana )
Musa Rosacea ( Flowering Rose Banana )
Musa Velutina ( Velvet Pink Banana )
Musa Zebrina ( Striped Banana )
Darjeeling Banana Musa sikkimensis
Red Flash Banana
Thai Gold Banana
Dwarf Indian Banana
Cheeseman's Banana
Abyssianian Banana
Monkey Fingers Banana
Cold Hardy Banana
Ensete glaucum (Snow Banana)
Ensete ventricosum
French Banana Musa Paradisiaca
Violet Banana Musa Violacea
Thailand Rock Banana Ensete Superbaum
Mike
Yes, there is a FAQ here about it. What you are seeing is fungus - they exist in the air and in soil and only sprout and spread under what is ideal - for them - conditions. Too moist mix, inadequate air circulation, warm temps, and insufficient light are the conditions they need.
It is easily prevented/controlled by letting the soil surface dry out between waterings, cutting way back on the over-watering (we all water way too much ;), increasing the air circulation - many use a small fan - increasing the light exposure, and decreasing the surrounding air temps - fan does that too.
Fungi won't grow unless we create the ideal conditions for them.
Dave
I came here to ask that very question myself! should the affected cells be removed and reseeded? I have about 6 out of a 72 cell tray that have some white fuzz on top, and since they are peppers have not sprouted yet. they are on a self watering mat if that mkes a difference.
Details are on the Winter Sowing form (linked top of this forum page) on how to convert these as well as many other types of plastic containers. Winter Sowers use every kind of plastic bottle they can get their hands on to make mini-greenhouses. ;)
Dave
You can start the pits in damp potting soil as well as in water, so you could probably put it in a pot now, with just the upper part of the pit sticking out (just barely). I would think a 6" diameter pot would be about right. You can always repot it into a larger pot later on.
So the shock of being in a drier environment doesn't kill it, I would put a clear plastic bag over the newly-potted pit, but cut some holes in it for ventilation, and enlarge them when the top starts growing, then leave the pot uncovered for air movement. All you would need would be some mold or fungus to start.
I would also put the potted pit in indirect light to encourage the stem to start growing, although it may grow well behind (time-wise) the root, like an acorn does.
Once you've got some leaves, I would feed it with some diluted worm tea or apply a thin (1/8") layer of good homemade compost to the surface of the pot and water it in.
Sue
I agree with her. Put it in a small pot and keep the soil moist. I personally would use miracle grow potting mix. Holds moisture and is full of nutrients for the plant. I had an avocado seed in a very small pot with some native sandy soil under the shade of a banana tree and when it was about 4 inches tall, I planted it in partial shade area in an existing hole where other my banana tree was. That was back in May of 2008 and now it is 7ft tall. I live in a rocky landfill area of southeast Florida.