6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
I do pretty much as Al does, except that I've been using perlite instead of vermiculite. (I might add some vermiculite this season if I get around to visiting the local Brew & Grow.) If you use perlite, it can send up huge clouds of perlite dust when you dump the bags, so it's good to plan around that (mask, well-ventilated area, breath-holding, whatever).
I grew onions from seed this past season. It was easy, satisfying and the onions were fine--but not remarkably different from what I get from the store. If you have a lot of space for a veggie garden, it might be worth it. For me, it's back to leeks, which are more expensive to buy so more worth it to me to grow. If I do grow onions again, I'll probably try a different variety--not standard yellow onions. I started mine indoors under lights, probably in February. Pretty much like most other vegetables, except that they can go out earlier than tender things.
Make sure that you use fluorescent bulbs. T5 lighting is best for seedlings but it's not necessary to invest that kind of money for a few trays. Fluorescent lights can be placed so they are almost touching the seedlings as they don't give off heat. I use HID MH and HPS lights for mature plants. I also use fluorescents in the greenhouse. A fan on a low setting will keep the air circulating and cut down on diseases.
About 10 years ago, I got it in my head that I should be growing all heirloom plants. Now I'm back to a mix.
In my experience, you can get bug and disease problems with any plant, but many hybrids are bred to resist the common diseases.
For growth rate, it really depends on the plant. What you probably won't see a lot of with heirlooms are "dwarf" or "patio" size plants. Compact size is something that most farmers wouldn't have cared about.
For overall appearance, you would probably see a greater variety of shapes and colors on the heirloom side, but it would likely look a little more "unkept" than the hybrid side. Hybridizers have placed a lot of emphasis on how the veggie looks.
For taste, I think it really depends on the veggie. I'll give the heirlooms the taste award for tomatoes hands down. Carrots, potatoes, herbs, lettuce, zucchini, and many others - I can't tell the difference.
About as I expected. A previous post got me thinking and I just wanted to ask the obvious.
Hybridizing has surely been a boon to flowers and their diversity. As for vegatables, it has opened many new possibilities. I once watched a PBS program that was linked to a post that explained a great economic colapse in Holland during the 1600's because from the fallout of a Tulip Hybridizing fanatacism.
If you search and read enough post Q and A here you'll learn everything you would ever want to know. Sometimes I like to ask just to be extra sure.
Thanks everyone.
You might like to soak your sweet peas before you plant. I put mine on a very wet paper towel on a dish. Then fold the towel over the seeds and cover with plastic wrap for a day before planting. When I plant I dig my hole and fill it with water and let it soak into the ground. Then I plant my soaked seed.
The soaking swells the hard outer covering and the moisture in the ground helps them germinate. I do this with any seed that has a hard outer shell--like sweet peas and nasturtiums
The chances are slim to none...... that is the reason they are grafted.....
On the other hand the seed grown tree may/will grow into a tree that will still be a wonderful addition to the landscape & there is a slim chance it will be better than any other existing tree.
It is hard to beat ProMix for most any seeding/seedling situation. ;) But it is difficult to find in some locations. And it isn't cheap unless you buy it in bulk. For those with a large operation starting hundreds of plants that is no problem but for the average home grower starting only a few plants it helps to find a couple of someones to share a bale of it with.
Otherwise plain old Jiffy Mix (the bags not the pellets) works fine and 1 $4.00 bag will do the average starting tray with no problem. The secret is to wet it first and then fill the cells with the damp mix. The Gardener's Supply system works just like many of the other systems on the market - it's the wicking up the water that makes it work - so it's using the pre-dampened mix and making sure the cell is well packed that makes it work.
Good luck with your plants.
Dave
Caroline, you should know that you will get a cherry tree by sowing seeds you saved of commercial fruit, but it isn't likely the fruit will resemble what you ate. Most cherries offered in grocery stores are from grafted or hybrid trees and the seedlings will vary.
I have saved seed for a year and some do fine and others don't. The way they are stored has something to do with it but the variety has more.
I have had seed drop in my flower bed and sprout years later. Last year was a prime example. Close to 10 years ago I dug out all my Shasta daisies and last year a plant showed up in my flower bed.
If you want my opinion then save the seed and store it right. You will get most of them sprouting but there may be some that don't.
If they are heritage plants, then you can save seed from your plants and have them come true. I would plant some in pots just for the seed. That way you can be sure to have them all for another year.
The problem with sowing seeds in large planters is moisture control. In order to germinate the seed has to be moist--not wet-- for it's germination period. This is very hard to do in a large planter.A large planter will dry out on top but be very wet at the bottom. Too much water and the seed will rot or the seedling will damp off.That is why seed is planted in small containers and transplanted into larger pots.
Geranium and fuschia are tender perennials no matter where you live. In Canada they are sold annually, but are never called annuals. In answer to your question about other plants. Coleus and Impatiens are 2 more that can be wintered over. The problem with wintering these 2 over is spider mites. You have to treat the plants often for this little pest, which is why many can't be bothered doing it.
There are others too but it would be too much typing to list everything and why and how to keep or not keep them for another year.
thanks to oilpainter for clarifying the issue about moisture control problem with planters. Also for alerting me to the fact that my misuse of the term annual would make my post confusing. I do like the look of coleus, but spider mites sound pretty scary.
A little more.
They do sell heating cables that go right in the soil, but you'd have to start them in an open flat. I don't know how much they are. It seems to me your best option is the mat and a shallow container that only holds a couple of inches of soil. That way the heat will get to the seed. You can always transplant into bigger pots after they get their first true leaves. If you didn't know--the first leaves on a seedling are seed leaves. The true leaves are next.
I start my seeds indoors and place them in my gh in mid Feb.
I keep the temperature around 42 at night.The only issue is cloudy days since I have no artificial lighting.
Here is a link that might be useful: Gardening by the Seat of my Pants
In the winter I use HID light in my greenhouse. Having no heat(can't afford it)in the greenhouse, I use a heat mat to maintain 70 degree soil temperature. I run the light(400 watts)as little as possible to keep costs down. Natural light in the winter is just not enough here in the winter. Al