6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
Thank-you to both of you for your responses. My Acer palmatum is covered in seeds at the moment. I will pick some and plant them outside in pots. I do get some natural germination every year, but digging them up successfully and potting them up is never 100% successful. Thanks for the input!
store seed at 40F for 12 weeks then do not "crack" seed just lightly cover soil temp 70F & may take up to 365 days to germinate.
the plant will NOT be like the parent & may take up to 10 years to flower & the fruit may be har & uneatable.... use seedling to graft a know variety .
Here is a detailed article on saving stone fruit seeds.
Here is a link that might be useful: Growing peaches, apricots and nectarines from seeds
Not harmful to animals. The distance between leaves is controld by amount of light low light = greater distance, the plant as it grows produces "small leaves" at first but then they continue to increase in size..... over fertilization will result in rapid growth & give the appearence of being open...
You probably are aware that most types of ivy are considered to be very invasive in many areas. Having been on ivy pulls in some of our parks,(back breaking work!) I always advise people now to plant something else instead. Among recommended plants are salal, deer fern or epimedium.
Wyman's Garden Ency defines peat as "A carbonaceous substance formed by partial decomposition in water of various plants, especially sphagnum." So in other words, peat is VERY old rotted vegetable matter, which has been compressed natually and is found in peat bogs in various places all over the world. It has been mined for many years and like oil, is now almost used up, and using it is not cosidered sustainable. When you see the term "sphagnum peat" used together, it denotes the English usage for peat moss. Sphagnum on its own refers to a type (genus) of living moss. Hope that answers your question :-)
Are you perhaps confusing S. sempervirens with Sequoiadendron giganteum? There's no reason to scarify or stratify the coastal redwood seeds. A sterile germinating medium and a shallow covering that allows sunlight to penetrate to this seeds is though. Germination is typically low no matter what techniques are used, so plant liberally.
Thanks Dicot.
No, definitely sequoia sempervirens. Everything that I have read so far, including what I have read here in the forums, has indicated that I should scarify and strat for approx 30 days, to help imitate the wintering process.
Thanks again for the feedback.
Remy
I have also been told that extra light will not hurt a plant. Now, some plants are daylength-sensitive and use it to time things such as when to flower, but peppers are not one of these plants.
When I start veggies indoors (including peppers) I just leave the growlights on all the time. They seem to do just fine.
GROWING MILKWEEDS has some information on collecting seed. It says 'pale and white' seed are no good - if I remember correctly.
Another method I use is soaking the seeds in boiling water. I dont boil the seeds. Just pour the hot water over them and soak as usual. This works well with really hard seeds. Particularly Senna alata. Ive done it with morning glory and nasturtium as well. I do know that plants love flat beer. So there might be some logic in there. Thanks for your info!
Adjusting the water pressure on a drip irrigation system is relatively easy by using a pressure regulator on the spigot. Most soaker hoses come (in the ones that I have anyway) with a blue round rubber pressure regulator in the female end of the hoses. The blue regulator has a hole in it that acts like a regulator. If the current hole doesn't produce enough rainfall, drill it out and make it larger. Then again, you could regulate the amount of rainfall by adjusting the flow out of the spigot. Just a few ideas.
Most of the soaker hoses I've used, the higher you turn up the water, the more the water tends to shoot out in direct spray jets from the myraid slightly-larger-than-regulation holes that there tend to be. If that makes any sense at all. I've had some success in the past rectifying this by covering said holes with electrical tape, but there are usually quite a few. Hence, your 'hard rain' would be interspersed with tiny shooting jets of water in various spots. Also, in my limited experience, water coming off of a soaker hose tends more to run down the length of the soaker hose and eventually drip off, rather than falling in neat, patterned 'raindrop' style drips. Though I admit to never really observing it in an elevated state with this thought in mind.