6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

store seed at 40F for 12 weeks then do not "crack" seed just lightly cover soil temp 70F & may take up to 365 days to germinate.
the plant will NOT be like the parent & may take up to 10 years to flower & the fruit may be har & uneatable.... use seedling to graft a know variety .

Here is a detailed article on saving stone fruit seeds.

Here is a link that might be useful: Growing peaches, apricots and nectarines from seeds

Not harmful to animals. The distance between leaves is controld by amount of light low light = greater distance, the plant as it grows produces "small leaves" at first but then they continue to increase in size..... over fertilization will result in rapid growth & give the appearence of being open...

You probably are aware that most types of ivy are considered to be very invasive in many areas. Having been on ivy pulls in some of our parks,(back breaking work!) I always advise people now to plant something else instead. Among recommended plants are salal, deer fern or epimedium.

Wyman's Garden Ency defines peat as "A carbonaceous substance formed by partial decomposition in water of various plants, especially sphagnum." So in other words, peat is VERY old rotted vegetable matter, which has been compressed natually and is found in peat bogs in various places all over the world. It has been mined for many years and like oil, is now almost used up, and using it is not cosidered sustainable. When you see the term "sphagnum peat" used together, it denotes the English usage for peat moss. Sphagnum on its own refers to a type (genus) of living moss. Hope that answers your question :-)

any one who lives in Alaska will tell you that the 22/24 hour day light will not kill the plant will reduce by 1/2 the time from planting to fruit production. IF you can provide the 24 hour of good light go ahead,

I have also been told that extra light will not hurt a plant. Now, some plants are daylength-sensitive and use it to time things such as when to flower, but peppers are not one of these plants.

When I start veggies indoors (including peppers) I just leave the growlights on all the time. They seem to do just fine.

GROWING MILKWEEDS has some information on collecting seed. It says 'pale and white' seed are no good - if I remember correctly.

The bonsai forum & the seed trading forum would give better results than here.

Thanks, I am new to this!

Tomato seedlings require good light warm temperatures (70F+) good air circulation..... the seedlings require gental handeling
without mor info on how YOU are growing these plants can only guess as to problem.

Yes, more details are necessary, especially about what you are growing them in, indoors or outdoors, how often you water, if you are using fertilizer or anything else related to your technique.

In general:
1) Use warm water for irrigation and once the seedling emerges, you don't want the soil to me constantly moist. Let the surface dry out or you can get damping off disease.

2) Use sterile soil and containers for growing, again to avoid damping off and other diseases.

3) Don't over-fertilize or you can 'burn' the seedlings. I never fertilize mine at all.

There is a forum dealing with seed trading try there

I've been working on some other citrus, but I don't have experience with pummelos, but I've oft heard that they don't always grow true to seed, and they have the longest maturation period of any citrus - 10-15 years.

BUT citrus can occasionally defy those general rules, and they are fantastic plants, so if you give it ideal conditions and care, it may reward your efforts a lot sooner.

PRETREATMENT: store at 40F for 3 months the at 70F for 6 months then at 40F for 3 months. THEN
Lightly cover the seed soil temperature 65-70F & takes 10-28 days to germinate