6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
Walking Onion seed is uncommon, typically the flowers dry up and wither (topsets are competing with them for energy) and they don't produce seed.
You can plant the topsets (bulbs, bulblets) to increase your plants - about 2" deep where you want them to grow. They are mature in late summer to Fall, may be picked and planted then, ripe when the leafstalk has dried and is turning brown.
- Sheffield's Seed Company ( sheffields.com ) is the leader in tree and shrub seeds. They have a very good Garden Watchdog rating, and I've always had fairly good results from orders I've made through them.
Other potential sources include:
- F. W. Schumacher ( www.treeshrubseeds.com ) with a very good G. WD. rating,
- Sparkleberry Springs ( www.sparkleberrysprings.com ) with a limited but excellent G. WD. rating,
- TreeSeeds.com ( www.treeseeds.com ) with a limited but excellent G. WD. rating,
- Angelgrove Tree Seed Co. ( www.trees-seeds.com ) with an excellent G. WD. rating, and
- Lawyer Nursery ( www.lawyernursery.com ) with a so-so G.WD. rating.
Yes, you can cover seeds with mulch and expect them to grow, and mulch will not stop weeds from sprouting.
There are two separate things going on: sprouting and growing, and they are separate processes. Sprouting will not occur if the seeds have dried out after sowing. An airy sort of mulch will shield from the drying wind and the hot Sun but let light and air in. If a leaf can see light, it'll grow to it.
A thick layer of heavy mulch like pine bark, gravel, or tree chipper run will prevent growth by smothering after sprouting.
The problem is that no one has defined "mulch" here. It can mean anything from a six inch layer of ground up truck tires to a sprinkling of pine needles.
There is a limited amount of nutrients/energy stored within the seed, only enough to get the cotyledons to the surface and into light where they can begin to make their own 'food'. Cover it too deeply with soil or mulch and that energy is expended before the seedling begins to grow - it dies.
I too have a few seedlings I grew from leftover apple cores, currently in pots, also approximately 8" tall. So long as you don't mangle the roots and keep them well-watered, you could plant them any time from now to October/early Nov.
You will want to get them in the ground before freeze-up; nature isn't kind to potted plants in our northern climate.
For rabbits and deer, the only thing you can really do is fence as securely as possible. What I do is use old tomato cages too beat-up for garden work as a scaffolding around which I wrap chicken wire.
I have found them difficult to germinate too. Though 100 of them is quite a bit!! This year I decided to sow the rest of some seed I bought 4-5 years ago and only 2-3 of them germinated. I did have much better germination the first couple of years, but I remember that it wasn't impressive.
They are pretty delicate for a long time. I remember reading that its best to plant them somewhere protected the first season, and move then to their permanent residence in the fall. I assume that that is if you are planning on using them in a pathway. Once established they are pretty tough. Mine have come back strong and have spread fairly well over the past 4 years (in zone 4)
That doesn't answer your question - they can certainly take some cold weather once they are hardened off, so I think planting out time will depend more on how you are using them and how exposed they will be to the elements.
Very informative, thank you! I started mine (very) early indoors in trays under light and on gentle heat. None grew to over 3/8 - 1/2". I lost my patience and put them in the garden hoping for survival but they all died. Evanston, WY. Zone 4 @7,000'.
I guess they are slower and WAY more delicate than I thought so I will try another tray (7/2014) and keep them potted inside until spring 2015 when I can acclimate them on my deck.
Thank you for the knowledge on delicateness!
they self sowed in spring.. in my garden ...
there is no reason they couldnt be scattered now ...
when in doubt.. be the plant ... and plant when they plant them ...
the only downside.. is marking the spot.. so when they pop up this fall ... you dont weed them out ... been there.. done that .. lol ..
but with these.. the furry leaves are not to hard to notice ...
ken
I'd move them back outside in natural light, your seedlings will grow stronger there than indoors. Do not cover with saran wrap. If you have a problem with birds or squirrels, protect the seed pots with chicken wire or some kind of screening, something that will allow for light, total air movement, don't use glass or plastic wrap as the seedlings will either cook in sun, or fall victim to fungal disease common in moist, still environments.
I have been trying to germinate fresh seed for many years. No luck until now. I harvested fresh seed from the pods just after the first snowfall in December of 2012. In January 2013 I created 8 experimental groups, some refrigerated, some not, some sowed directly, some floated in a baggie of vermiculite in a cooler filled with 82 degree water maintained by an aquarium heater, some put in the cold frame, some left outside in full exposure a harsh winter.
I kept very thorough notes. The following method describes the method that easily proved its worth: three times the germination compared to all other methods.
January 14, 2013---Soaked fresh seed overnight in a pint of water containing 1/2 teaspoon citric acid (or winemaker's acid blend). You could substitute 1 T. lemon juice. The acid soak variable proved to be the most important variable.
January 15, 2013---Put soaked seeds in a baggie full of damp vermiculite and stratified (refrigerated 40 degrees) for 90 days.
April 15, 2013---No germination. Placed seeds in 6" pots covered with vermiculite. Put pots in cold frame (along with half the other experimental groups). Inside temp of cold frame was 41 degrees at 8 AM. It froze previous night.
Late spring, 2013---Opened cold frame but kept pots moist all summer and fall. No germination.
February 23, 2014---Germination observed in all pots, but the acid soak/stratifed method had three times the amount.
April 12, 2014---Fertilized with weak solution of Peters African Violet food (12-36-24) to encourage bulb growth. Put pots on the deck on the north side of the house, where they will get no direct sun. Kept very well watered.
Tomorrow--July 7, 2014---Will pot up all plants in separate 4" pots. About 50 total from a beginning of perhaps 800 seeds.
Good luck to all!! Remember: acid soak and stratify!
Sheeba123,
I don't know how your post ended up here, but it's very misplaced. If you do come back here to check, and you see this message, I recommend you make your own thread and put it in the Seed Exchange forum. You'll also want to fill out your trade/exchange list. Without that, no one will know what you have to offer for exchange for your request. I would recommend that you carefully read the Seed Exchange FAQ page and the sticky note at the top of that forum. It has guidelines necessary for trading on GardenWeb.
Is that the sprout or the root in the picture? I don't know what the growth is, but I think you could plant it with the sprout facing upwards and the seed partially buried, in a regular container.
There's lots of vids for this on youtube...
I haven't had luck getting the seeds to sprout in the past, and am trying again myself. Kudos to you for sticking it out with this one :)
As for the bumpy growth - that looks like pickle relish - how did you have the seed positioned? Was it completely under water or partially wet? I've also never seen such a yellowy green, er, avocado-colored seed like that! Curious.
I planted my zinnias on 12 sept 2013 indoor, now they are 5 cm tall, but I notice that their stems are still very fragile.
Should I move them outdoor or still indoor until they develop leaves?
is it too late to plant seeds this year? Its July 13, 2014.