6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
Here is a link to a review of this company, from the Garden Watch Dog:
http://davesgarden.com/products/gwd/c/3178/
Here is a link that might be useful: Garden Watch Dog
I haven't tried that particular eryngium, but according to the Clothiers database they are slow to germinate and not all seedlings will appear at the same time. In my own Z8, putting the pots outdoors from about Nov into early March would make them independent of me having to watch them closely but there is very little chance of any pot drying out here over late Fall and Winter. My winter temps will often be a day/night average of 40F
Clothiers - Eryngium campestre , Sow at Max. 5ºC (41ºF), germination irregular, often several months
Hi Savannaht. I haven't tried campestre species in particular.
But with E. alpinum & giganteum cultivars, I have figured out that (unless seeds are not viable to begin with), if they aren't sown almost directly from the the bract, in which case some can germinate within weeks, they can otherwise be rather more difficult/slower, unless the outer seed coat is removed first.
Try using a new damp coffee filter in a plastic baggy, if you aren't already. Carefully use your fingernails to gently remove the outer seed coat & once hulled, quickly place each on the moist filter, as it is important to avoid allowing it to dry out.
The inner seed coat will appear much like a sunflower seed.
Expose these seeds to afternoon or morning light, indoors in a windowsill, but be sure it doesn't make them get too warm.
Then place back in the refrigerator, as the seeds should have started to swell & may turn pale green.
I've noticed they can actually rot more easily, if they aren't cooled down, while in the process of producing a root.
But, since you've pre-stratified them they may just germinate with ease, once the seed coat has been removed without requiring any more cooling & without rotting.
You'll have to keep watch...
If they don't start to germinate &/or rotting starts to occur- Chill again & be patient.
Once the rootlet appears you can pot those up & they should do fine with afternoon shade. After several true leaves have grown, you may carefully plant them out, while trying not to disturb the tap root too much, in the process.
hth
I use a 2-1-1 mix of Sphagnum peat moss/perlite/coarse sand. I get the sand from a builders supply. I don't worry about PH either. I used a T8 P&A and a T5 for lights above my gas stove where the pilots kept the trays at 75-80F. I got 90-95% germination on all saved and most bought seeds this year.
They are usually more of an orangey tan when ripe, but I understand you can pick the pods and store in a paper bag before they are fully hard and dry...in a paper bag because they pop open and disperse the seed, it doesn't just fall out :)
If light green, I'd give them some more time though, some varieties don't fully ripen until Fall....or if you have several pods, pick and check one for the condition of the seed...dark brown to black and shiny is mature.
Here is a link that might be useful: Ripe dried pod and seed
It will be Oct before seedling can be transplanted to pots & then allower to grow on...... so I doubt there will be enough time unless you have a heated greenhouse......
I grow on in a heated greenhouse then give 5 week cold period & get flowers the first year,
the division of these plants will be the same as any other plant...... gently seporate the plants .....retaing as much root mass (of each plant) as possible. repot, water well, LIGHTLY fertilize, place in shaded area at first then bring into full light.
Thanks for your advise .
Joy