6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

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yiorges-z5il

Acold treatment (40F) for 3 weeks helpful.. lightly cover the seed. soil temp 68-75F taking 14-30 days to germinate. flowers 2nd year after cold period.
as to when can start I beleave in your zone can start any time.

    Bookmark     August 31, 2009 at 9:54AM
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petunia_2006

I am in zone 9 coastal also. My colombines self seed. They have set seed already but there are new plants coming up from last season. I have several varieties and they all did well.

    Bookmark     September 5, 2009 at 5:34PM
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yiorges-z5il

You CAN thin out & transplant IF you are gentle & control light/water/temperature. OR YES you CAN delay 2-3 weeks & selective harvest & share

    Bookmark     September 2, 2009 at 7:33PM
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yiorges-z5il

Needs a cold treatment (40F) for 12 weeks.
seedling best used for root stock to graft on a known variety

    Bookmark     September 2, 2009 at 7:29PM
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yiorges-z5il

allow seedhead to mature more..... when spreading in oct. cover seed to protect from birds. mice etc.....

    Bookmark     August 31, 2009 at 10:07AM
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origami_master(5b)

going down
will disappear down if no one else replies

    Bookmark     August 29, 2009 at 11:28PM
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geranium_hybrid(6)

I don't use that. I just buy the Peat moss and perlite, mix then add compost. Nothing else, the seeds love it, I start giving compost tea to them when they get their true leaves, and I use artifical lighting and bottom heating

    Bookmark     August 27, 2009 at 10:20PM
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taz6122(N.W. AR.6b)

I use a 2-1-1 mix of Sphagnum peat moss/perlite/coarse sand. I get the sand from a builders supply. I don't worry about PH either. I used a T8 P&A and a T5 for lights above my gas stove where the pilots kept the trays at 75-80F. I got 90-95% germination on all saved and most bought seeds this year.

    Bookmark     August 29, 2009 at 6:06PM
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morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

They are usually more of an orangey tan when ripe, but I understand you can pick the pods and store in a paper bag before they are fully hard and dry...in a paper bag because they pop open and disperse the seed, it doesn't just fall out :)

If light green, I'd give them some more time though, some varieties don't fully ripen until Fall....or if you have several pods, pick and check one for the condition of the seed...dark brown to black and shiny is mature.

Here is a link that might be useful: Ripe dried pod and seed

    Bookmark     August 24, 2009 at 9:08PM
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squirrelspur(6B/7A NC)

Thank you morz8 that really helps a lot!

I may collect a few pods early and store as you suggest in case I miss the ripened pods before they pop open.

squirrelspur

    Bookmark     August 25, 2009 at 1:03PM
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yiorges-z5il

It will be Oct before seedling can be transplanted to pots & then allower to grow on...... so I doubt there will be enough time unless you have a heated greenhouse......
I grow on in a heated greenhouse then give 5 week cold period & get flowers the first year,

    Bookmark     August 25, 2009 at 9:57AM
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ontheteam(5a-6 (S.Eastern, MA))

yeah that's what i am afraid of..I do not have a greenhouse heated or otherwise.
SIGH. Thanks

Any suggestions on what I CAN do?

    Bookmark     August 25, 2009 at 11:09AM
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taz6122(N.W. AR.6b)

I wouldn't plant them now unless you intend on keeping them inside for the winter. They wouldn't overwinter outside in your zone.

    Bookmark     August 11, 2009 at 11:59PM
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chuckstoll(5)

Most canna seeds need to be knicked before planting, I wouldn't hesitate to start them now but plan to plant them in the spring.

    Bookmark     August 25, 2009 at 11:08AM
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yiorges-z5il

If seed pod is brown & starting to dry out then its OK....
I usually put a "baggie" over the stem tip & close with a rubber band. This way I keep the birds away. OR take & cut stem & hang upside down in the garage

    Bookmark     August 25, 2009 at 10:00AM
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calistoga_al ca 15 usda 9

Either way would work. Don't let the seeds dry while waiting for signs of germination. Be sure the temperature is optimum for germination. Al

    Bookmark     August 25, 2009 at 9:46AM
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calistoga_al ca 15 usda 9

Peppers are such sun lovers I have never tried keeping them indoors for their life cycle. I would expect them to develope spindly plants with weak stems and sparse fruit. Let us know how yours do. I would not expect an odor problem. Al

    Bookmark     August 18, 2009 at 9:47AM
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john_genesis

Thanks morz, I didn't see that section. So far they are still doing well, the largest has an inch long pepper growing and they have all began blossoming, I'll go into the Growing Under Lights section for further help, thanks a lot guys!

    Bookmark     August 24, 2009 at 7:51PM
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taz6122(N.W. AR.6b)

I don't think you have enough time for flowers. Best to wait til next spring.

    Bookmark     August 23, 2009 at 10:23PM
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samfawzy10(Z5)

thanks taz, I will wait till next spring.

    Bookmark     August 24, 2009 at 11:09AM
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geoforce(z7a SE PA)

Here is a page with info on germinating them. They are generally multiplied by division though.

George

Here is a link that might be useful: Sea Oats

    Bookmark     August 23, 2009 at 10:07PM
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dicot

Lettuce seeds don't like to germinate where it is too warm. I always start mine in potting soil in flats in the shade and then transplant.

    Bookmark     August 18, 2009 at 6:30PM
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bugtussellmom

Thanks everyone, I think Dicot has the right idea. I've been reading about it and I think soil temperatures make a big difference with lettuce germinating. The containers are in the house with the A/C, it's much cooler inside.

Can anyone tell me what's a good soil fertilizer for salad crops? Or something I need to add to insure a good growth? I will try the outdoor crop in a few weeks when the temps get a little cooler.

    Bookmark     August 23, 2009 at 12:15AM
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