6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
Sheeba123,
I don't know how your post ended up here, but it's very misplaced. If you do come back here to check, and you see this message, I recommend you make your own thread and put it in the Seed Exchange forum. You'll also want to fill out your trade/exchange list. Without that, no one will know what you have to offer for exchange for your request. I would recommend that you carefully read the Seed Exchange FAQ page and the sticky note at the top of that forum. It has guidelines necessary for trading on GardenWeb.
Is that the sprout or the root in the picture? I don't know what the growth is, but I think you could plant it with the sprout facing upwards and the seed partially buried, in a regular container.
There's lots of vids for this on youtube...
I haven't had luck getting the seeds to sprout in the past, and am trying again myself. Kudos to you for sticking it out with this one :)
As for the bumpy growth - that looks like pickle relish - how did you have the seed positioned? Was it completely under water or partially wet? I've also never seen such a yellowy green, er, avocado-colored seed like that! Curious.
Suckers? It's growing more stems or "trunks"? I think most folks take those off to focus the plant's energy on the main stem and (usually) 2 ears. Most corn is planted too close together to let multi-stemmed corn grow very well.
I know one grower, though, who grows his corn farther apart and leaves the new stems. He says it's not unusual to get 12 ears on some of his plants. (This also probably varies by variety. I wouldn't expect more than 2-4 from commercial varieties.) Here's my favorite example.
That came up volunteer in one of his gardens. He says it had 16 ears. Called it a cornbush.
You'll have to decide how YOU want to plant your corn, and how you want it to grow. Consider how many plants you have, the space you want them to take up, and whether or not you'll have to hand pollinate. (A small grouping of corn won't self pollinat very well.)
Here is a link that might be useful: Image source
If bugs are eating you leaves, you'll probably need to use some sort of repellant or insecticide. There are of course many options. I'm only familiar with a few, but since you've gotten no other answers, I'll share them.
Sevin is effective, and easy to find. Works on most bugs. Be aware, it washes off in the rain. If the bugs come back, re-apply.
An organic alternative is to spray with water that has had tobacco soaked in it. Won't hurt most plants, but google it. I think it's bad for tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, eggplant. (The nightshades.) Any form of tobacco will probably work. I used non-filtered cigarette butts. Made the plants smell like an ashtray for a while. I'd use it outside or ventilate.
This post was edited by oldmobie on Mon, Jun 30, 14 at 11:53
Check the height and width of the full grown plants (shown on back of seed packet usually).
Zinnias and Marigolds vary in height and width depending on the type.
The Zinnias I grow are quite tall - I grow them in the ground.
The Marigolds I grow are two types - the French and Dwarf.
I plant several (5 or so) marigold seeds in one hole. The French get quite wide - 3 feet perhaps. The Dwarf are cute little mounds that would look lovely in a pot.
Zinnias and Marigolds are very good choices - very easy to grow.
Here is a picture of the Zinnias and Dwarf Marigold in my yard:
I have less experience with zinnias, but I've seen marigolds grow and bloom even when very crowded. Ideal spacing may be more eficient use of your seed, but even planted at maybe four times that density, they can grow healthy, with adequate water and fertilizer. They can be pretty forgiving.
Mirabilis jalapa, aka Four O'Clocks. For future reference there is a forum on Garden Web called Name That Plant which is the best place to get ids. It is very active.
Here is a link that might be useful: Name That Plant Forum
Echinacea will normally take 10-20 days to germinate at 65-70F (18-21C) - cooler or warmer may take longer. I think your climate is approximately a Z8 and the plants may do better outside than inside over winter with low or inadequate light. You don't need to cut them back, let mother nature take care of the dormancy, give them some protection during a harsh winter storm if your pots would be in danger of freezing. I've moved very young plants in and out of my unheated garage when temperatures have been predicted to fall much below freezing.
I'm late to this, but I happen to have some hosta seedlings at various stages so I thought I'd post the pics.
These are some seeds I got off of ebay. I germinated them on a moist paper towel inside a zip lock (started June 3rd). June 16th there were quite a few that had germinated, so I placed them in potting soil. This is what some of the more advanced ones looked like this morning (June 19). Some of the others aren't as far along and haven't sent up a leaf yet.
they are still going to cross pollinate to some extent. knowing that, it probably doesn't matter. unless you care. you could try to stagger, but time to harvest is probably what, 100 days?
YMMV in your zone. call the extension service and ask them ...
dave
I've been reading that pollen determines the type of corn produced. I would try to avoid having flint corn pollinate sweet corn, as it would likely be harder and less sweet. There are also finer points like the gene(s) responsible for the sweetness of your particular corn. Two common ones being se and su. Bottom line: change pollen source, likely change the taste. Sweet corn, pollinated by a different sweet corn, is still sweet corn. It could be more or less sweet, though. I'd plant the sweet corns together, but I'm not too picky, and like to experiment.
Will you be saving any of the seed you produce? If so, know that your crop next year is likely to be very different if you grow them together. And variable. I don't care about purity, but most gardeners do, so you'll need to decide how you feel about it.
Thanks Morz8 for all advice.
Since the last batch was the fresh-est, I think I have better chances with it. Also, many seeds and more techniques.
But I will only know in spring 2013...
:)
Calin
I have been trying to germinate fresh seed for many years. No luck until now. I harvested fresh seed from the pods just after the first snowfall in December of 2012. In January 2013 I created 8 experimental groups, some refrigerated, some not, some sowed directly, some floated in a baggie of vermiculite in a cooler filled with 82 degree water maintained by an aquarium heater, some put in the cold frame, some left outside in full exposure a harsh winter.
I kept very thorough notes. The following method describes the method that easily proved its worth: three times the germination compared to all other methods.
January 14, 2013---Soaked fresh seed overnight in a pint of water containing 1/2 teaspoon citric acid (or winemaker's acid blend). You could substitute 1 T. lemon juice. The acid soak variable proved to be the most important variable.
January 15, 2013---Put soaked seeds in a baggie full of damp vermiculite and stratified (refrigerated 40 degrees) for 90 days.
April 15, 2013---No germination. Placed seeds in 6" pots covered with vermiculite. Put pots in cold frame (along with half the other experimental groups). Inside temp of cold frame was 41 degrees at 8 AM. It froze previous night.
Late spring, 2013---Opened cold frame but kept pots moist all summer and fall. No germination.
February 23, 2014---Germination observed in all pots, but the acid soak/stratifed method had three times the amount.
April 12, 2014---Fertilized with weak solution of Peters African Violet food (12-36-24) to encourage bulb growth. Put pots on the deck on the north side of the house, where they will get no direct sun. Kept very well watered.
Tomorrow--July 7, 2014---Will pot up all plants in separate 4" pots. About 50 total from a beginning of perhaps 800 seeds.
Good luck to all!! Remember: acid soak and stratify!