6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
If in doubt whether the seeds are good or not, I usually test the seeds by placing them on a MOIST paper towel, folding it over several times. Place in a small Ziploc plastic bag and put on top of the refrigerator. This method is explained on page 41 of Garden Way's JOY OF GARDENING by Dick Raymond. On July 4th I placed two seeds of GAYLIA MELON 409 which I obtained from Thompson and Morgan on 07-15-1989. That is correct almost 20 years ago.
One of the seeds germinated on 07-10-09 and I planted it in a 2 3/4" plastic pot filled with moistened germinating mix. The seeds were kept at room temperature all these years in the original inner foil packet and outer paper packet. My reason for wanting to replant this variety was that it is the standard seed from which I can obtain seeds to save. Galia melon is now available as a hybrid although some seed providers have the OP available. I tried this method with 10 Melon Ogen seeds with 100% germination. I just checked the invoice, and it is listed as Melon Gaylia F1 Hyb even though Standard Seed is listed on the right hand margin on the back of the packet. Will have to rethink about saving the seed if indeed it was a hybrid.
If in doubt whether the seeds are good or not, I usually test the seeds by placing them on a MOIST paper towel, folding it over several times. Place in a small Ziploc plastic bag and put on top of the refrigerator. This method is explained on page 41 of Garden Way's JOY OF GARDENING by Dick Raymond. On July 4th I placed two seeds of GAYLIA MELON 409 which I obtained from Thompson and Morgan on 07-15-1989. That is correct almost 20 years ago.
One of the seeds germinated on 07-10-09 and I planted it in a 2 3/4" plastic pot filled with moistened germinating mix. The seeds were kept at room temperature all these years in the original inner foil packet and outer paper packet. My reason for wanting to replant this variety was that it is the standard seed from which I can obtain seeds to save. Galia melon is now available as a hybrid although some seed providers have the OP available. I tried this method with 10 Melon Ogen seeds with 100% germination. I just checked the invoice, and it is listed as Melon Gaylia F1 Hyb even though Standard Seed is listed on the right hand margin on the back of the packet. Will have to rethink about saving the seed if indeed it was a hybrid.
Nope.
It's not too late to plant this year.
In Massachusetts we recieved June frosts this year and a 7.5" of rain. I didn't plant my garden until the first week of July.
I already have 3 speckled roman tomatoes fully ripened and picked and a 2 pantano tomatoes that will be ready this coming week.
The trick I used was keeping everything in pots until the weather stabilized --- Which I might add didn't help.
My garden weathered the hail storm yesterday, but my neighbor's garden was torn to shreds.
I'm going out on a limb here, since I live on the other side of the puddle, but over the past few years I have found that one has to rely on instinct more than the instructions given on the packet as to when to plant out.
'Seasons', as such don't seem to exist anymore... we've had November days that were up into the 70's, and yet have had to turn on the heating in the house in late May.
Summer flooding has become a real problem in parts of the UK, and last February we had snow in this area for the first time since 2003.
Growing has become a lottery unless you are using a glasshouse, and every year brings the question of "what might actually produce a crop?". My pear tree hasn't fruited well in this millenium, last year we had a meagre plum crop ( nothing the year before )... runner beans did well, but tomatoes were a waste of time!
I'm glad I'm starting to lose my hair otherwise I'd be tearing it out! :-)
novice, it would help to know which seeds too, different plants have different requirements and maybe some of us have tried those you'd like to grow. And if we don't have our own experience, some of us have a stack of propagation books next to our computers that may well describe which process for that particular plant, has a lot to do with their climate of origin, which region they are native to.
I use a bit of sterile moist (like a squeezed out sponge) sand or moist vermiculite in a 2x3" zip lock for stratifying in my refrigerator during those months when I'm not getting a 40F average between day and night temps outdoors...just a teaspoon or so of either will do. When the appropriate number of days have passed and I'm ready to sow, I can sow the contents of the bag, sand and all, and not have to extract the seeds. Your freezer is too cold.
Did you plant all you seed? If not save the remaining seed for next year. Don't put plant all your eggs seed in one basked at one time.
As a rule, unless you are in a problem area don't plant sunflowers inside.
Six different sunflowers, May, zone 6 - something went wrong; too deep, too much water perhaps.
Ok well first off if you have ever overwatered and the leaves turned yellow cause of this the leaves will never turn back green. I would just remove the yellow leaves. If your getting wilt during the day that could be a sign of not enough moisture in the soil or to much sun. Young plants that arent well established sometimes do this even with the proper moisture.
To much acid in the soil can cause a plants leaves to turn yellow. If this is the case taking some epsom salt and put it around the base of the plant will help that part. No the epsom salt will not hurt the plant if thats not the case.
As far as your raised bed 2 gallons of water can be enough or not enough. It really depends, for one any kind of plant in soil that has completely dried out may take more water than that. When a plant completely dries out the best way to water is by a slow long drip. If you just dumped the 2 gallons of water on the area it may just not of had time to soak in. If an area is wet or has been watered consistently and the ground is not completely dried out it will take less water to reach to the bottom. I really hope that made sense.
As far as a soil moisture meter I personally have never used one, I tend to listen to my plants. If they want water they tell me if they wont less they tell me. I dont get to technical when gardening trial and error is my way to go. I try something if it doesnt work I try something else.
Four O clocks need to be watered more often, daily or every other day. With the hose set on shower, spray the flowers and count to 10 for each plant. Watch how the plants respond to the water and adjust watering accordingly.
Newly planted four o clocks do have shallower roots so if the plant is healthy don't worry about shallow roots.
Remove the yellow leaves, this is probably a lack of water. Do not confuse drought tollerent with no water at all.
Good luck!
Seed dormancy is natures way of setting a time clock that allows seeds to initiate germination when conditions are normally favorable for germination and survival of the seedlings.
Viable seeds that do not germinate are dormant, and there are types of dormancy - seed coat or external dormancy where temperature, water play into breaking down the seed coat to allow moisture to reach the embryo, and internal (endogenous) dormancy where inhibitors are contained within the seed.
Seeds of some species exhibit what is known as double dormancy. This is a combination of seed coat (external dormancy) and internal dormancy. These double dormant seeds (or two step germinators as Deno calls them) need a resting period between the emergence of the radicle (immature root) and the cotyledons (seed leaves).
Yes, you need to water them at least occasionally and not let them dry out for any prolonged period of time or the seed will die.
Parentage is supposed to be e. purpurea both sides for this one, so stratifying fresh seed shouldn't be necessary.
Germination approx 10-21 days - if you don't find germination after 4 weeks try giving them a moist chill of 2-4 weeks.
I was sure waiting to see if someone else had an idea on this one.
My first thought is that maybe they are crossing with each other or maybe the hollyhock you had was a hybrid and the seed were not true to begin with. If several hollyhocks are close together they will tend to cross and the seeds will be totally different than the parent plant.
As far as the life of a single plant that I am unsure about, I do know that a neighbor of mine has had a hollyhock in her garden at least 7 or 8 years could be longer. I obtained seed from it and grew my own and I have had it for 2 or 3 years.
I'm not sure if the double hollyhock seed are hybrid varieties (the seed package just said 'double hollyhock mixture of colors')but I am quite sure the one's I grew did not cross with any single varieties. I guess then the seed then must revert back to the single varieties. I too have had the same plant come back again for a couple of years & some plant stalks in bloom way over 8-10 feet tall. but wasn't sure if they were true perennials or not. On the farm they just did as they wanted & we never paid much attention to them ... oh, as little girls we made flower dolls out of the open flowers & the un-opened bud ... can't remember how we did it now though!! :)
The doubles are so beautiful so was hoping they would re-seed & grow the same double shape!
Try putting a coffee filter in bottom of pots so soil doesn't wash out. May degrade over length of time you'll have seedlings in those pots, though. I also use fine insect screen in bottom of pots to try and keep out pests including slugs. Can get insect screen in rolls in any big box store, Walmart or hardware store. It's just the stuff they use to replace window screens. Get the coated kind so you don't risk rusting.
Good luck.
The FAQ's for this forum should answer quite a few of your questions. If there is more you want to know, come back to this thread and ask additional questions. Hope this helps.
Here is a link that might be useful: Growing from seed FAQ's
Keep the soil very moist until the seedlings have sprouted well through it (until you have as many as you need/want). Watch out for white mold on the surface of the soil (if it appears, remove the lid for a few hours and place in light and it should go away). Other than that, you're using a good method & good starting soil. =) Remove them from the greenhouse when you see the 2nd set of leaves is about 1 cm or larger. Place into same soil in 16 oz plastic cups, potting up an inch or so higher on the plant than they were in the greenhouse. For helpful pics, go to THIS LINK.
Peace - Steve
WAY TO GO KEEP IT UP...