6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
If you are using a cool bulb it's ok for the plants to touch the light. Next time time leave the light alone a few inches above the plant. Don't make the plants use their energy to play catch up with the light. Also put a fan in the room so the seedlings are gently moved around by the air current. Doing this benefits seedlings because it causes them to grow shorter, stockier and more hardy. It's a form of mechanical stimulation that causes thigmomorphogenesis.
Thanks Kandm
I'm not sure of what kind of bulbs i have. I bought the light table specically to grow seedlings. It came with the bulbs. OK, next time i'll them the zinnia a little further from the light and add afan but even still i think they were on the way to legginess. What about the lack of buds? Why do the zinnia show no sign of budding.
Quite honestly i'm thinking of pulling them out and redo my garden (which is VERY small, btw) with some showy annuals Thanks again!
Dale
ps what's thigmomorphogenesis.
Salicylic acid is known to block synthesis of abscisic acid (the reverse is also true, its pretty complicated). Abscisic acid is involved in producing seed dormancy and also in promoting seed germination. It may be that supression of abscisic acid in some seeds removes a dormancy while suppression in others prevents germination. There is certainly every reason to believe that there will be some effect.
Two weeks ago, my father (who lives in AR) showed me the difference in two sets of okra plants resulting from some seeds being soaked in gasoline and the others in just water.
The ones soaked in gasoline looked like they had been planted a week earlier!
Thanks for the help! I've transplanted them already. My biggest seedling, I've had to clip the root at the bottom as it was growing out of a small hole in my makeshift box. I couldn't just slide it up. I hope that this doesn't kill it! I'm crossing my fingers now.
Chitting, nicking, or presprouting is useful for any seed that A) Has a hard seedcoat B) Tends to sit in the ground or C) Germinates at a higher termperature than is convenient.
I chit or presprout peas and spinach in February. I soak them for only 30 minutes and then place them in a damp paper towel until I see the white roots forming. In the afternoon, when the soil is warmest, I sow the now sprouted seeds just like I sow any other seeds.
I do this because the optimal germination temperatures are much higher than the acceptable growing temperatures. Peas and spinach grow in temps as low as 40 degrees, but they would take weeks to germinate at that temperature and would probably rot before then. Presprouted they take about 7 to 10 days.
I also use the same method to plant beans in the summer. It's not necessary but I get impatient and beans can take a while to sprout sometimes and can fall victim to rot. Never plant beans in cool soil though. It'll set it back for life.
I have practiced chitting of pea, bean and corn seeds for many years. Where I live, south of Seattle, the soil takes a long time to get warm enough so that corn and bean seeds sprout in the garden easily.
Peas and corn can be soaked in tepid water overnight in a glass jar with cheesecloth or similar material fastened over the top. After the initial soak, the seeds are rinsed a few times a day and the water is poured off. Seeds are planted when they have visible roots and hopefully before roots are so long that they break easily.
I am currently experimenting with bean seeds and find that they seem to tolerate a six hour soak fine. Then they are treated as above.
This allows me to plant beans and corn earlier. And seeds that do not sprout are discarded, making it more likely that I will get plants where I want them with less empty spaces. - Dick
My seedlings seem small compared to other photos I've looked at. We went for nearly two weeks straight with heavily overcast skies...and I have no lights! This is my first year working with seed and only my third year gardening, so I figure I'm allowed some screw ups ;o) But I definitely have enjoyed the process and have learned a lot, so I'll be doing it again next year!
Verbena...these got really leggy, but once I pinched them back and gave them some sun, they started to fill out. Verbena makes me so happy!
Scarlet Cardinal Climber...they were doing pretty good and then sort of went limp. I repotted them and they are doing a little better
Moonflower vine...started these way too early! One actually wrapped itself around one of my dahlia seedlings yesterday.
Dahlias...my favorite annual. I thought they looked pretty good until I went to the greenhouse. Then I realized they looked pretty leggy and wimpy in comparison. I hope they bloom!
Impatiens seedlings. These grew really fast at first, but now their progress is slllloooowwww....
Red "Fire Chief" Petunia...these are still pretty small, but wow, they are loving they hot sun and 80's & 90's...they are rapidly growing now...a little worried that they are a long time from blooming though.
I love flowers and plants but there so expensive,so I decided to buy seeds of all the kinds I like,I tried the jiffy peat pellets and started indoors,but nothing sprouted up,so I brought them out to more sunlight,then some sprouted and alot didn't.the ones that sprouted I transplanted to the flower beds,but then they disappeared,what am I doing wrong?
Earth worms are a benefit to the soil. They do not damage or eat your seeds. They eat bacteria and fungi that are consuming vegetative matter in the soil. In return they leave their castings which becomes some of the best plant nutrients. Their movement in the soil also helps provide spaces for air and water. Al
Bump...
Whew! 3 hours of work for the post I just finsihed. Check it out & let me know what you think. =)
Peace - Steve
Hi, prherbivore
I think this was a rather old thread, but to answer the question since you were wondering as well.
Sometimes if you have like 15 20 seedlings in one clump yes it would be best to thin and repot rather than plucking or cutting them out. I would recommend doing this when the seedling is approximately anywhere between 2 to 4 inches. Normally when I repot some of my seedlings I clump several together depending on the plant and the normal spread of that plant. In other words if I know my plant will grow vigurously the first year I may only plant 1 or 2. If its kinda skimpy looking I clump several together.
I hope that helps ya prherbivore!!
Hi. I'm not sure if this discussion has ended but I recently got some ginkgo seeds and instructions from an online store on ebay. 4 of the 12 sprouted and I have one full fledged seedling. I tried a variety of ways in a variety of places. One- in my office in dampened vermiculite. I think I overdampened the vermiculite and the majority rotted. Two of 10 managed to survive. Two- In a box outside, I planted it in some sort of moss tablet that you can get at any nursery, add water to it and stick in the seed.
I didn't cold stratify them. I just opened the seed, stuck it in the vermiculite or soil. It wasn't the most clever way as I got very low results form all the seeds but I have three growing right now. The funny thing is, I thought I actually planted them the wrong way. There is a white shoot that comes out and then roots downward. From this white shoot, it splits in the middle and that is where the seedling comes up.
I live in zone 10, near the coast and while one seedling is doing really well- the other two took another 2 weeks before I saw sprouts on them.
Hope this helps.
Here ya go I just did a search for the seed your wanting to plant I hope this helps ya. Sometimes searches work sometimes they dont. Its always nice to try it though.
From what I gather you got to have the temp anywhere 65 to 70 for germination, I dont know how hot it is there but I am in nw tn and its already up in the mid 80's. Also since the plant blooms from july to september and germination takes 14 to 21 days, you may not have a seedling till july or later.
With all that said if I was you, and this is just my opinion, I would save the seeed and maybe start to germinate it this winter. That way you will get better results and more use out of the seeds.
Anywho enjoy the link, all I did to find this page was put in a search for "summer savory"
Here is a link that might be useful: Summer Savory
Ok wow lol, First off in order to get true seeds you have to be careful with cross pollination. In other words if your 2 plants were to close to each other the seeds you may have collected may not be true like you want. This happens when you have 2 of the same kind but different varieties of the plants. I hope that made sense. Also if your kale is of a hybrid they for sure will not be true.
Secondly, if the seed pods that were on your plants were still green when you cut them down then chances that they matured fully is very unlikely. Not only do the seed pods need to dry, but they need to dry or mature on a living plant.
Thirdly if you have to hot of a greenhouse then germination may not be good at all. Germination takes place best at cooler weather like 60 to 75 degrees, if I am not mistaken.
Fourthly I am not familiar with your kale, I have always heard of cabbage and kale with your pansies and violas and thought of them to be winter plants, so the best time to plant I couldnt tell ya on that one.
Fithly I wouldnt know either on the plants surrounding your existing kale, but if there were seed pods that fell from the plant they may have reseeded. Just like I said previously though if your 2 different kale varietys were to closely planted though you probaly will not have true seeds. So its very likely that the seeds are from your plant that cross pollinated with the other one. You can always just watch and see what happens, alot of time seedlings look totally different than a mature plant.
I hope that helps ya and Goodluck!!
Yes Karenrei has a point. Too much of something can kill your plant whether watering or fertilizer. Everything should be in moderation. The most important concern for palm tree planting is the quality of the soil, weather tolerance, sunshine and compatibility of a particular variety before planting it.
I hope this helps you.
Thanks
I knew this plant needs less water and also I bought miraclegrow cactus mixed soil and transplanted this plant in a slightly bigger pot. Transplanting was such a pain as it pricked my hands. I do not see any worms or anything but some small flying flies like insects hovering over it.
I do not see any fungus growth anywhere... but the leaves were turning yellow... I gave miracle grow fertilizer 1 tablespoon mixed in one gallon of water gave to two sago plants and some more plants. Both sago and another palm plant died.
I tried to put them at south facing window along with my seedlings and all of them have those tiny flies hovering over them now... My okra, egg plant and some flowers died indoors which were near to this plant. One palm I do not know its name I had put in the soil to see whether it will show me some sign of life and also planted some seeds, everything in that pot died!
Learned big lesson.... keep the suffering and ailing plants away from the seed and seedlings!!!
Even now the sagos are lying outside in the garden, could not dump them in the garbage...