6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
I'm late to this, but I happen to have some hosta seedlings at various stages so I thought I'd post the pics.
These are some seeds I got off of ebay. I germinated them on a moist paper towel inside a zip lock (started June 3rd). June 16th there were quite a few that had germinated, so I placed them in potting soil. This is what some of the more advanced ones looked like this morning (June 19). Some of the others aren't as far along and haven't sent up a leaf yet.
they are still going to cross pollinate to some extent. knowing that, it probably doesn't matter. unless you care. you could try to stagger, but time to harvest is probably what, 100 days?
YMMV in your zone. call the extension service and ask them ...
dave
I've been reading that pollen determines the type of corn produced. I would try to avoid having flint corn pollinate sweet corn, as it would likely be harder and less sweet. There are also finer points like the gene(s) responsible for the sweetness of your particular corn. Two common ones being se and su. Bottom line: change pollen source, likely change the taste. Sweet corn, pollinated by a different sweet corn, is still sweet corn. It could be more or less sweet, though. I'd plant the sweet corns together, but I'm not too picky, and like to experiment.
Will you be saving any of the seed you produce? If so, know that your crop next year is likely to be very different if you grow them together. And variable. I don't care about purity, but most gardeners do, so you'll need to decide how you feel about it.
Being that I'm in Hampton Roads area, not all that far south of you, mine are in full flower right now. They are a cool season annual & as such, require they be sown in early autumn, or late winter, depending on the weather...
I also might add, that the previous post, appears to be from someone in zone 5 & I take it, growing them in Canada. Where summer there, is absolutely nothing like our hot steamy ones in mid-Atlantic region ... Therefore, as soon as they germinated in the heat we experience,( if they even did so) they would simply quickly die from it.
I usually sow them about 7 to 10 days prior to a full moon, in late September, up to about December & later again, (the next year) in late January if mild enough, or February, up to start of March & no later.
Otherwise, just be patient & wait until late September, at the soonest. (or earliest chance, to be successful.)
While I will agree that they germinate better in the cooler weather don't discount how warm our summers are. Our typical daytime temp in July is about 90F and not uncommon to be 100F, however we don't get the humidity you have. I remember a time when I was guiding fly fishing a couple of guys from Houston thought they would come to Canada to get out of the heat. It was 103F in Houston and 107F here lol.
I would sow them and see what happens. What do you have to lose? I did not sow poppies this year as I am having lots of sprouts from last years sowing :)
Good luck and get back to us on how they did for you.
SCG
This time of year, I would sow the seed, wrap the pot with saran wrap and secure with a rubber band or put the pot in a zip lock bag, and put it in the refrigerator. If space is at a premium, you can put the seed in a small amount of sterile moist sand or sterile moist vermiculite, just a couple of teaspoons is often enough, in a small zip lock and refrigerate that. Later in the year, I would put the pots outside rather than refrigerate, my winters will often average to about 40F.
And no, there is not a good way to shorten the period needed to stratify. If the periods provided that are needed to break dormancy are too brief, you may have to begin again and lose time.
Birds DO ravage flowers. They've eaten half my zinnias (flowers and foliage) and half of the early foliage of some sunflowers. "Sparrow" type little monsters ate these below as I watched. There was no rubble on the ground. They weren't building nests. They're just jerks.
BTW: nasturtiums are delicious. A little peppery, but good.
Birds eat seedlings and sprouts and even the new leaves of my cuttings.
I keep strawberry and geranium (pelargonium) seedlings covered with a birds net.
And one time when the plants where close to the net , they eaten my strawberry seedlings through the net.
so now i make sure to keep the net high enough .
although just a few days ago a geranium sprout vanished leaving only a small hole where it grew.
maybe some long beaked bird like a Hoopoe?
20 yrs gardening in a difficult zone 5a, i consider myself an 'insurance' gardener...
For summer and winter squash, melons, pumpkins...., i have 12 well spaced mounds...
5 seeds in each hill last weekend...5 more will go in this weekend...and a seed starting tray i started a couple weeks ago.
They tray is doing well and still small. -these crops do not like transplanting at all but i do it close to planting time, soil warm, temps. 4-6 inches is perfect.
Really not much trouble but i avoid having to purchase with so many seeds anyway by sharing and exchanges and seed saving last years crop seeds.
Too much moisture and rain this time of year for me, we often get seed rot...they turn to mush if i look for them after no germination...
A good year all comes up fine...
With multiple seeds in a hill, i can then select the strongest plants and cull the others...
After up and strong and surviving cutworms and such maladies...3-4 plants per hill.
Thanks for your comments.
I think i was looking for a miracle "something" to help me with the strawberry seeds.
they are taking a lot of time to germinate and by the time a tiny root is showing it is all so moldy that it does not develop any farther and just dies as a seed with a tiny root tail.
I have a neighbor who is a serious farmer he grows flowers for export.
he told me that he can give me some anti mold for pretreatment of the seeds , he also told me not to use damp paper towel for germination , but to use peat moss (he can give me some).
i hope i'll manage to grow some strawberries with his help.
>> ...are taking a lot of time to germinate and by the time a tiny root is showing it is all so moldy
Definitely go with the peat for germination. Peat seems to be resistant to mold, and to be doubly sure it can be easily sterilized after it's dampened by nuking it in the microwave oven (along with it's container). Mold also seems to be deterred by a warm sunny environment.
Just keep in mind that peat doesn't go far nutritionally, so don't leave sproutlets in only it much past a couple of pairs of leaves.
Google + (name of plant) seedling, click ' images ' sometimes works,
Or, seedling photos are at Seed Site. Use the Search Box followed by 'Find', the site can be a little hard to navigate.
Here is a link that might be useful: Seed Site
Thanks Goblugal. That's great to hear. About what date did they achieve full glory in your garden? Would love to see your pictures to know what they can achieve. We seem to have a great climate for guaras. The rest of mine do so well. My Sparkles have produced plants like the picture provided by LSU in their trials last year. I thought perhaps that the LSU climate is a true ideal climate since the plant originated in Texas/Louisiana.
Thanks,
Bob
Echinacea will normally take 10-20 days to germinate at 65-70F (18-21C) - cooler or warmer may take longer. I think your climate is approximately a Z8 and the plants may do better outside than inside over winter with low or inadequate light. You don't need to cut them back, let mother nature take care of the dormancy, give them some protection during a harsh winter storm if your pots would be in danger of freezing. I've moved very young plants in and out of my unheated garage when temperatures have been predicted to fall much below freezing.