6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
Swiss chard and its relative the beet have multiple seeds joined in a fruit, which is actually what you'll find in the seed pack. Each one you plant will typically grow into multiple plans, as you've found. I usually start chard in pots as you do and then transplant them to plugs or 4-packs to grow before planting out. I wait until they grow large enough to handle and then I separate them while transplanting them. Rather than pulling them out, I'd suggest carefully pushing the soil with plants out of the pot and then carefully teasing the soil and little plants apart. I usually let the seed mix get a bit dry before attempting this because it's easier to separate the soil then. Good luck!
Thanks Bitterwort. I did find some info explaining about the seed "clusters" after a few different searches online. Yesterday I went ahead and teased apart the 1-2 inch tall seedlings as you suggested and potted them in bigger pots. They all seem to be doing OK. Some will stay in the pots and a few I may try in the ground as edible ornamental plants. I just hope I can keep the snails and slugs from feasting on them before we can!
Thanks again,
Susanne
Half inch could certainly be young slugs, and here in the slug capitol of the world they come in several colors...
Do you think they are slugs (easy to identify) or do you suspect something else? If slugs, you'd better get some bait out (many choices of environmentally friendly or otherwise at any garden center) or you won't have your seedlings for long. Another way to deal with them is to go out after dark with a flashlight, armed with a spray bottle of approx 1 part household ammonia to 4 parts water - spritz on the slug and it's dead in a heartbeat, ammonia/water won't harm your seedlings....just don't spray on plants in the heat of the mid day sun and that isn't when you would be finding slugs anyway.
Here is a link that might be useful: Young slug
I don't know about the peat moss and all that, but I can tell you in my experience, I don't till the soil either. Sometimes I remove sod altogether to make a bed, sometimes I just turn it deeply. Either way there are always at least a few weeds to pull, but seeds seem to germinate just fine. There are probably things I could do to get a higher germination rate, but really, as long as you follow the packet instructions most seeds aren't too fussy.
They do look happy to have received some water. If you do have seeds sprouting from direct sowing and are concerned about temps overnight in the 40's, you can always place an upside down pot or bucket over them in the evening - will give you a few degrees protection.
Regarding seed movement: there are a number of folks that will "rag-sow" seeds--as in, put them in a moist paper towel (nside an open-ended baggie) and place them in a warm spot until the seed has germinated, then the seed will be planted in medium. Based on this information, I would hypothesize that seed movement, as long as it's not too out of control, shouldn't cause germination problems. I have been completely hit or miss with my seeds this year. It may be that your seeds had started to germinate and then got too dry and died before they were able to take off--my tomatoes always sprout long before peppers.
For the record, if you have ever grown tomatillos before, you may have heard that it's best to plant them in pairs; some won't set fruit if there is only one plant. Doesn't make sense to me, but I've always planted them in pairs, and never any regrets for having done so.
Don't give up on your babies; if it's nice outside, just put them outside in a greenhouse-style protection--just put those peat pots (watered from the BOTTOM to avoid more trouble) into a cleaned out milk jug. Go check out the winter-sowing forum and FAQ's(no, it's not too late to wintersow if you're still starting indoors from seed) and let mother nature do the hard part--just be sure your medium stays moistened--tomatoes are very unforgiving when it comes to moisture.
They look burnt. IMO, I would transplant to some cups or something slightly larger, make sure they're watered good, but not too much, feed with a little water-based 1/4 strength or so fertilizer and also place in sunlight (outdoors if weather permits).
thank you for your quick reply,
they all germinated in basement, no any artificial light, the only light is from the small window of my basement.
what's best temperature for them to go outside? I'll try to do it right now if the temperature is not too low or too high.
peter
You'll need to consider the approximate temperature of your basement, you don't want to expose them to a greatly different temperature too quickly. Not knowing what kind of weather you are having and how warm your basement has been it's difficult for me to answer your question.
Small basement window won't be enough light. I would put them outside in a somewhat protected spot like in dappled shade or under an evergreen of some kind for an hour or two - if your outdoor daytime temps are in the 50ish range and your basement has not been fully heated - you don't want them going from 70F to 40F abruptly. Increase that amount of time each day but do not be in too big a hurry to leave them outside 24/7 if you still have a possibility of hard frost.
In their native conditions and not started indoors, they are quite tolerant of cool to chilly, moist temperatures - its summer dryness and heat that causes them to fail. Here where our summers have very little heat, they grow in almost full sun with moist soil. I have my first bloom of the year opening just this week; conditions have been a lot of rainy days, on only two of those days have temperatures climbed out of the 50s.
Anyway, I think this is going to be my technique for killing weeds and weed seeds/seedlings in the spring.
Just so you know... clear construction plastic like you might get in bulk at your local big box store is *not* rated for outdoor use. It's non-UV-treated polyethylene. It'll last for about 200-300 days exposed to the elements before it becomes brittle and starts cracking when flexed.
If you want something that'll last, order plastic from a greenhouse supply store. Get at least treated polyethylene. Treated PVC or fluorinated polymers are even better. Bubble wrap is two-layered PVC, so you may get a bit more insulation that way. Also excellent are solar pool covers.
Thanks for the posts on the plastic - so much to learn yet! At least while I'm waiting around to plant, I still have time to do something useful! BTW...my extra tomato plants made great mother's day gifts, too! Less to bring in at night, and both my mom and mother-in-law are happy!