6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

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ilovewater

I think you are in the clear now for potting soil. Maybe some extra fertilizer pellets could be added to the soil if you are just putting them in pots. This will help the flowers with extra nutrients that they may need as the growing season goes on.

    Bookmark     May 7, 2009 at 12:05AM
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Maxine(5MA)

Hi ilovewater

actually the potting soil i was going to use has a low npk
content.
This should give them a boost?

    Bookmark     May 7, 2009 at 11:45AM
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westpagrower

Thanks for the reply. Yes, they are under lights, about 3 inches away. Could it be too much water?

    Bookmark     May 7, 2009 at 8:04AM
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tn_veggie_gardner(7)

Possibly...get them in sunlight, if you're weather lets you.

    Bookmark     May 7, 2009 at 11:14AM
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ilovewater

Thank you for the response! I immediately put them under the grow light for some extra TLC. The pic was very helpful! Thanx!

    Bookmark     May 6, 2009 at 11:48PM
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tn_veggie_gardner(7)

Also in a day or so, "pot up" (re-pot in larger container) to some form of cup (typical medium) with a non-sand containing good potting mix and water thoroughly (fertilize with water-based solution if the potting mix isn't like MG or whatever). Light will help your plants, but sunlight & warmth will heal them.

    Bookmark     May 7, 2009 at 1:58AM
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hatchjon

Some very common problems with seed starting are:

Not enough light/Light too far away (this causes 'leggy', tall and skinny seedlings): Use florescent lighting (4ft shop lights with T12 tubes are good) no more then 2 inches away from the plants.

Over watering: When seedlings first emerge keep the soil moist but after the seedlings start the first set of leaves let the soil get almost completely dry before watering.

Besides the common problems above temperature after germination should be around 65-75 degrees.
I use plastic cells and pot up to 4 inch plastic pots. I plant in Pro-Mix which comes highly recommended. I feed with Neptune's Harvest Fish Fertilizer.

As far as starting too late, I'd say you started the tomatoes at the right time but the cukes and squash you started too early. Start cukes and squash 3 weeks before your last frost date or seed directly in the garden.

Lastly, read through this forum and the vegetable gardening forum as far back as you can manage. Many people have gone through the same trials as you and there experience is wicked helpful!

Jon

    Bookmark     May 6, 2009 at 2:58PM
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seamommy(7bTX)

I always had trouble starting seeds too, but this year I did something different. I didn't have a greenhouse so I used a plastic tarp over the growing racks. I fastened the corners of it with clothespins and set a humidifier next to it to keep everything moist all day. I work and can't be around all day to check soil moisture and the humidifier did the trick. Not only did I have almost 100% germination, but lost very few seedlings after they were up. The greatest thing about it was that I really didn't have to water the seedlings hardly at all since they stayed moist 24/7. The only bad thing was when I crawled inside the tarp to look at all the little seedlings, my dogs would go bonkers and tear around the house like their tails were on fire. Cheryl

    Bookmark     May 6, 2009 at 4:07PM
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aliceinvirginia

Germination I think was just slow. I've got extra's of everything I want now. Just what am I going to do with 12 mini bell peppers... And I have to figure out whether to plant before or after I go on vacation in mid May.

I'm still going to buy plants next year Other than lettuce and other seeds I've already got or think might be difficult to find.

Even the year old eggplant seeds were a little slow, but are doing nicely now that they've germinated.

Alice

    Bookmark     May 3, 2009 at 4:05AM
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hatchjon

jessicavanderhoff "do you think the lights help the seed germinate?" Not really. I had other seedlings already growing under the 4 ft. shop lights so I just placed the seed trays under there right off. I do think it's best to have the seedlings exposed to light immediately after breaking the surface.

aliceinvirginia: It's good to here everything is going well. Try giving some seedlings away so someone else can start a garden. Every year I have too many too!

Jon

    Bookmark     May 6, 2009 at 3:50PM
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Karen Pease

I'm not familiar with the agrilight. What type of light is it?

The standard rule of thumb is if your hand feels hot where your plants are, the lights are too close. It should feel comfortably warm. Also, with a fan, you can get the lights a little closer.

24/0 will generally get you the best vegetative growth. If you're going for flowering/fruiting, that depends on whether it's a short day/long night plant or not.

    Bookmark     May 5, 2009 at 6:44PM
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hatchjon

Searching for these on Google I came up with two different possibilities.

I think these are incandescent bulbs. Are they sort of bell shaped like a floodlight bulb? Do they screw into a regular fixture?

If the above is true then these are absolutely no good for growing anything despite the claims to the contrary.

The other possibility I found was the Phillips Agro light which is a HID (high intensity discharge) HPS (High Pressure Sodium) lamp. This lamp would need a special ballast and socket and would be a long skinny tube. HPS lamps are great for growing things but you should follow the rule of thumb that karenrei pointed out.

If the lamps are incandescent you should just return them. If you read around these forums, most people use tube florescent lights in $10 shop light fixtures from Home Depot or similar.

Jon

    Bookmark     May 6, 2009 at 3:11PM
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v1rt

Ah, maybe, it's the transplanting shock that is affecting the growth. I don't see any signs of wilting though. I'll just wait then. I will also apply liquid fertilizer today and it's going to be their first time to have a drink of fertilizer. Hopefully, it help them.

Thanks.

    Bookmark     May 6, 2009 at 9:49AM
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Karen Pease

We call weeds weeds because they mature so darned fast ;) If they don't get big and tall and in our plants' way (and readily reseed so much), we wouldn't call them weeds!

    Bookmark     May 6, 2009 at 2:32PM
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mn_matt

i got that pack too. easy to tell apart just not whos who. younger pics below

    Bookmark     May 6, 2009 at 3:16AM
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tn_veggie_gardner(7)

Heirloom = not hybrid...can save seeds for next year, etc.

    Bookmark     May 6, 2009 at 10:48AM
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calistoga_al ca 15 usda 9

Yes remove the tent and heat. When the seedlings show signs that water is needed, immerse the container half way up the sides into a bath of 50% diluted fertilizer water. When the surface shows the water presence by looking shiny take the container out of the bath. Do not water again until the surface looks dry. When the seedlings have at least one set of true leaves they may be separated into each his own pot of potting soil or planting mix. Al

    Bookmark     May 5, 2009 at 9:49AM
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Karen Pease

You should get the bag out of the sun. You risk baking your seedlings as soon as they emerge. Keep them in the shade until they germinate. As soon as you see germination, take the bag off.

As for #3, I prefer to keep it moist the whole time during germination (the bag should do that for you). Once they germinate, however, yes, I strongly recommend only watering when the soil feels almost dry. If you keep it constantly moist, not only do you make it easier for diseases to get established, but your plants won't build as good of a root system.

    Bookmark     May 2, 2009 at 11:12PM
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amshdoc(Caribbean)

Thanks for your help karen!!!!

    Bookmark     May 4, 2009 at 10:01PM
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Karen Pease

If you're gentle with the roots and make sure that they're watered immediately after transplant, they should be fine. I do the same with reseeding fennel.

    Bookmark     May 3, 2009 at 11:27PM
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Karen Pease

In general, you'll get better vegetative growth with 24/0. However, be warned that some plants need long nights in order to flower.

    Bookmark     May 3, 2009 at 9:21PM
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