6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
i wasn't sure that it was an apricot tree until i found the half shell yesterday around the same area. and the leaves look the same as apricot tree, so i am just assuming that they are apricot trees.
i got the seed directly from the apricots that i bought from the supermarket.
You could keep growing them as long as you have the space. Next time don't start quite so early. Beans are fast growers as you are finding out. I start mine in a seed sprouter and move them out when I see the first leaves. But you don't need to do that at all.
Here's what I've found; We have a somewhat short growing season in Maine. The sweet peppers I've grown (Carmen, Round of Hungary) usually fully ripen at the end of the season and some do not ripen at all. Three years ago I pinched off blossoms and got fewer ripe peppers and more unripe peppers.
This is pretty weak evidence since it was only one year but I think pinching off blossoms may delay fruit production.
Jon
I havn't done this for a while now but several years ago, I used to collect the seeds of "purple wave" petunias and when I started them the next year, I found that some were like the original, some had two colors and others were mostly pink so I think they start to go back to their original heritage. I don't know about others. Stan
I have collected the seeds of purple wave and planted them the next year.They germinated better than any other petunia seeds I purchased but mostly grew out to be a lilac silver color but retained their spreading habitat. They also reseed themselves readily in last years pots.
I once had a greenhouse and did many propagation experiments as a hobby. It was my experience that play sand was not the best sand. Play sand is usually round under a microscope and of different size grains so as dicot notes it tends not to be ideal.
In your OP you as about sand as a "primary ingredient". You plan to use sand and what?
This link may be of help
http://tomclothier.hort.net/page11.html
Here is a link that might be useful: About germination
A little reading on the internet, and I found for astible the suggested way to germinate is:
Fine seeds, surface sow, light needed for best germination, 1-4 weeks at F 70 days and F.50 nights.
It states germination may be slow without the fluctuating temperatures.
For the Kolkwitzia :
Cold stratify for 3 months. After stratification sow 1/4 inch deep in sterilized gardening soil and place container at about 70 degrees. Some seeds may germinate within a few days, but germination tends to be sporadic and may occur over an extended period of time. Keep soil moist at all time. After germination seedlings need bright light and cool enviroment. Alternatively seeds can be fall sown for germination in spring.
(The Kilkwitzia wouldn't be damaged by the freezing temps...they would be expected if sowing directly outdoors in the fall for spring germination.)
For the Dodecatheon, it says:
Place mixture in a labeled, sealed plastic bag and store in a refrigerator (33Â38°F). Stratify for the number of days indicated in parentheses. If two months (C(60)) of this cold storage before planting is normally required to break the dormancy of these seeds, one month may work for many species if time is a constraint. Some seeds may sprout in the storage bag if moist stratified too long. If sprouting occurs, plant immediately. Another method of breaking dormancy for species requiring moist stratification is to sow seeds outdoors in the fall so they may overwinter.
(Again, it being possible to "winter sow", it wouldn't hurt the seeds to be frozen etc. )
Overall I think you should be fine, but for the astible, you may want to try setting them in room temps for the day and the fridge at night...it may help speed up germination.
Best of luck!!
Your plants look great!
I would leave them in the cells until ready to move outside (harden off first of course...) but if you think about how large the plants are when you buy them at a greenhouse - yours have a long way to go (in size) before they need to be moved. ALSO - potting up, will slow the growth as the roots try to catch up again, another reason to leave them.
Just be sure to check them daily - as they will dry out more quickly as the roots fill up the cells.
Great job!!
Missti
We will be gone for 7 days. I have to keep them outside on the patio--my wife keeps the house really clean and does not want them indoors. I might buy a kid pool, add about an inch of water and place the trays in it. I've also thought about the wicker method, using old cotton socks and a bucket of water. I have 4 trays of different species of tomatoes (~72 plants). I'd like to keep atleast 75% of them. Any adivice on the wicker material or my pool idea will be very appreciated. No way they'll stay alive without water--we are averaging 90 degree temps over the last 4 days.
