6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

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stanly(Z03)

I havn't done this for a while now but several years ago, I used to collect the seeds of "purple wave" petunias and when I started them the next year, I found that some were like the original, some had two colors and others were mostly pink so I think they start to go back to their original heritage. I don't know about others. Stan

    Bookmark     April 27, 2009 at 12:23PM
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narm_rn(Z5B CA Sierras)

I have collected the seeds of purple wave and planted them the next year.They germinated better than any other petunia seeds I purchased but mostly grew out to be a lilac silver color but retained their spreading habitat. They also reseed themselves readily in last years pots.

    Bookmark     April 30, 2009 at 8:49AM
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albert_135(Sunset 2 or 3)

I once had a greenhouse and did many propagation experiments as a hobby. It was my experience that play sand was not the best sand. Play sand is usually round under a microscope and of different size grains so as dicot notes it tends not to be ideal.

In your OP you as about sand as a "primary ingredient". You plan to use sand and what?

    Bookmark     April 29, 2009 at 11:09AM
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tn_veggie_gardner(7)

noooooo...don't use sand at all.

    Bookmark     April 29, 2009 at 11:20AM
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colokid(5)

This link may be of help
http://tomclothier.hort.net/page11.html

Here is a link that might be useful: About germination

    Bookmark     April 29, 2009 at 10:12AM
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calistoga_al ca 15 usda 9

Generally speaking fresh harvested seed will start easier than it will later. Much of the seed inhibitors are not yet present in newly harvested seed. Yes in your location as in mine I would go ahead and plant your seed. Al

    Bookmark     April 29, 2009 at 9:45AM
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eternity2669(6a)

A little reading on the internet, and I found for astible the suggested way to germinate is:

Fine seeds, surface sow, light needed for best germination, 1-4 weeks at F 70 days and F.50 nights.

It states germination may be slow without the fluctuating temperatures.

For the Kolkwitzia :

Cold stratify for 3 months. After stratification sow 1/4 inch deep in sterilized gardening soil and place container at about 70 degrees. Some seeds may germinate within a few days, but germination tends to be sporadic and may occur over an extended period of time. Keep soil moist at all time. After germination seedlings need bright light and cool enviroment. Alternatively seeds can be fall sown for germination in spring.

(The Kilkwitzia wouldn't be damaged by the freezing temps...they would be expected if sowing directly outdoors in the fall for spring germination.)

For the Dodecatheon, it says:

Place mixture in a labeled, sealed plastic bag and store in a refrigerator (33Â38°F). Stratify for the number of days indicated in parentheses. If two months (C(60)) of this cold storage before planting is normally required to break the dormancy of these seeds, one month may work for many species if time is a constraint. Some seeds may sprout in the storage bag if moist stratified too long. If sprouting occurs, plant immediately. Another method of breaking dormancy for species requiring moist stratification is to sow seeds outdoors in the fall so they may overwinter.

(Again, it being possible to "winter sow", it wouldn't hurt the seeds to be frozen etc. )

Overall I think you should be fine, but for the astible, you may want to try setting them in room temps for the day and the fridge at night...it may help speed up germination.

Best of luck!!

    Bookmark     April 26, 2009 at 6:36PM
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bernadette_gourder(5 from Newaygo, MI)

Thank you for the info! I think I will try what you suggest about the Astilbe and see what happens. . .

    Bookmark     April 29, 2009 at 8:26AM
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misstiblues(3)

Your plants look great!

I would leave them in the cells until ready to move outside (harden off first of course...) but if you think about how large the plants are when you buy them at a greenhouse - yours have a long way to go (in size) before they need to be moved. ALSO - potting up, will slow the growth as the roots try to catch up again, another reason to leave them.

Just be sure to check them daily - as they will dry out more quickly as the roots fill up the cells.

Great job!!

Missti

    Bookmark     April 28, 2009 at 10:13PM
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undercover_owl(8 Pac.NW)

At zone 8, you should take them outside today!

Definitely keep them in their cell trays until they get sturdier. And as the other posters said, do keep them watered as the little containers dry out faster.

Congratulations!

    Bookmark     April 29, 2009 at 12:17AM
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wardog33

Thanks for the answers! The cat is fine! I'm keeping the "stems" for a bit to see if anything happens. I started my remaining seeds (9) and have three new sprouts. They were started outside and are staying there (cat is inside).

    Bookmark     April 28, 2009 at 7:25AM
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wally_1936(8b)

Never had a problem with a cat eating Cardinal Climber but they did keep eating my hardy hibiscus seedings to the ground until they died so never tried again until I moved and haven't had that problem again, have my fingers crossed.

    Bookmark     April 28, 2009 at 6:20PM
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wally_1936(8b)

I don't think they usually weight enough to sink. Can't see any reason to soak them, I wouldn't worry and just plant all of them

    Bookmark     April 28, 2009 at 6:15PM
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mmqb

We will be gone for 7 days. I have to keep them outside on the patio--my wife keeps the house really clean and does not want them indoors. I might buy a kid pool, add about an inch of water and place the trays in it. I've also thought about the wicker method, using old cotton socks and a bucket of water. I have 4 trays of different species of tomatoes (~72 plants). I'd like to keep atleast 75% of them. Any adivice on the wicker material or my pool idea will be very appreciated. No way they'll stay alive without water--we are averaging 90 degree temps over the last 4 days.

    Bookmark     April 28, 2009 at 4:16PM
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wally_1936(8b)

Sounds like you need a Good Neighbor to "baby sit" those plants or you just may have to start all over again.

    Bookmark     April 28, 2009 at 6:10PM
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wally_1936(8b)

They should do just fine, if they had a litte bare ground they would re-seed themselfs.

    Bookmark     April 28, 2009 at 6:05PM
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vietzero

I do the same way but with seed you need to put it in the shade. It is more likely to grow that way. I try putting it out in the deck and water it everyday before and it seem that I have more dead. Come to think of it I only have 1 out of five seed that made it.

    Bookmark     April 28, 2009 at 3:11PM
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vietzero

Try to put the pot in the shade and wait until the seed spout and become a little more mature before putting it in your deck. If you have no where to put it try sowwing it indoor before bring it out. I put mines in a water bottle fill with soil and let it sit next to my window.

    Bookmark     April 28, 2009 at 3:07PM
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vietzero

No....... the seed is not mature enough for it to grow. Most seedless watermelon have those white seed.

    Bookmark     April 28, 2009 at 2:58PM
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tn_veggie_gardner(7)

Thanks =) I'm anxiously awaiting my first bud & flower somewhere.

    Bookmark     April 25, 2009 at 11:10PM
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tn_veggie_gardner(7)

...and the first 3 bud sets have arrived! =) All 3 of my Cherry Tomato plants have a wee bud set...yay! I'll post pics in a few days to a week when they're a bit more easily visible.

    Bookmark     April 28, 2009 at 2:12PM
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