6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
When I start seeds, I put them on top of the fridge then anytime I'm using the clothes dryer I'll put a container of seeds on top of it to sort of give them a boost. Most seeds have germinated rapidly doing this with a high germination rate except for my Rosa Bianca eggplant and California Wonder peppers. Both were 0% germination.
Usually long lanky seedlings are a sign of not enough light. When the seedlings emerge, you need to have flourescent lights only a few inches above the seedlings...on 16-18 hours daily to give them enough light to not get lanky. Wishing you the best of luck with your seedlings!
I agree with eternity2669 that it is lack of light. Florescent T12 tube light can touch the plants without harming them.
Another thing that you should modify is the timing of your plantings. Pumpkins and acorn squash should probably be planted directly outside. Melons should be started indoors no more then 3-4 weeks before you plan on setting out. Other plants have different timing requirements.
Jon
Ian,
I'm having the same problem. I purchased seed from a seller on eBay so don't know how they were prepared and I've never seen this seed before so can't comment on their condition. I've tried germinating them in damp brown coffee filters (they just rotted), also cold storage for 5 weeks in fridge, then outside (these are planted in damp seed starting medium in a six pack) and I've yet to see sprouts. Just recently put some in a pot of damp potting soil in a pot on the deck and it's too early to tell if they will sprout.
I'm having terrible luck and only have a few seeds left to try in different settings. The only living plant I've found locally is $39.00 at a local nursery so for now, have discounted that option.
I did see that plants were available at an online Wildflower nursery but shipping alone is $15.50 plus cost of plant so I'm waiting a bit longer to see if I get lucky with the seeds. I don't know if the seeds just aren't viable or if it's something I'm not doing correctly.
Please keep us posted with your progress and I'll do the same.
Mary
I can see why it cost so much to ship, they seem to have quite a strong root system. So strong I wasn't able to dig one up that sets too close to my home so I am going to keep it cut short as it takes up way too much room and blocks many of my other flowers. It needs to be pruned back anyway, at least for my purposes as it gets too gangly. There are a couple in my yard and we don't really care for them that much as we have a small yard and they seem to be more at home in a much larger yard where they can be enjoyed out around the edge of a yard.
In Michigan we direct sowed them in a small rich bed then when they were around 3" to 4" tall we transplanted them and they did fine. Here in Texas we plant them in the fall for a winter crop. They are tough so if you didn't damage the plant they should recover from the transplant shock. Don't give up on them until you have to go for it.
I agree with other posters, need more info to answer that question. What kind of seed and what kind and size of container would help alot.
I plant some things very close and then transplant them to thier own pot space, I grow some 2-3 seeds in one pot and seperate and transplant them out at the same time. Then some plants I make sure I plant seperate from others so that thier roots are disturbed less when transplanting.
Good gardening, Mary
First off, there's no reason to give them light right after you sow. They can't use it until they germinate.
Secondly, it's really hard to replace direct sunlight. The sun outputs 1000 watts per square meter. So if you had perfectly efficient grow lights, you'd need 1000 watts per square meter (conditional... see below) to match direct sunlight. Except that 1000 watts of grow lights don't give you 1000W of light -- or even close. If it's some type of fluorescent light, you'll probably get 20-ish percent efficiency, so that's *5000* watts per square meter. LEDs, 50-60% efficiency, so 1650-2000W per square meter.
Now, you have a couple advantages over the sun. One, the sun is only up for a limited number of hours per day; you can leave your lights on as long as you want. Two, the sun is almost never head-on, but instead comes at an angle, and is thus less intense relative to the cosine of that angle. Three, you can pick your spectrum. Red and blue are better than green, so the redder and bluer your lights, the more the plants will be able to make use of it. So, to match the sun with full-spectrum fluorescent grow lights on 24/7 and assuming an average angle for the sun at 50% with it out for 11 hours, you'd need about 1650W per square meter to match it. If you tailor your spectrum and/or use LEDs, you can improve on that number.
Basically, to sum up: it's really hard to match the sun.
I've got lots of sprouts, but now they are getting too big for the plastic enclosure.
You're supposed to take the enclosure off as soon as they sprout.
Is there anything special I need to do to put them outside?
Yes, you need to harden them off. Start them off sheltered from the wind and the sun, then after a couple days introduce them to a bit more exposed location, then after another couple days a bit more exposed still, and so forth until they can take full sun and wind.
Thank you Al and jaynine. They look better today. And the good news is that here in Door County we finally have a day (with several to follow) that will be good to start hardening off. I'm glad to have more room under my lights because I think I may be starting more than I can handle.
Maybe I'll need to wider a few flower beds if all that I've got going makes it to the outside.
I've become attached to these plants over the past few weeks and I think my dog is jealous of the attention these seedling seem to get:)
She'd rather have me scratch her tummy or play fetch.
Sorry, no seeds here, but you would want to know that maple cultivars like Shaina are normally grown from cuttings or grafts. Your friend could get some red seedlings from a batch of seeds, but the shape, form could be anyone's guess.
I agree with what morz8 said. Named cultivars are reproduced by cuttings or grafted cuttings.
However, the idea is really sweet. If you could locate an
Acer palmatum "Shaina", that had another Acer palmatum nearby, then you could collect the seeds and try to grow them. The offspring won't be "Shaina", but they certainly will be attractive and cool looking, if you like the looks of Japanese Maples in general.
If you're looking for seeds, try asking in "Seed Exchange" forum.
To purchase a "Shaina", maybe try shopping online.
Seed pods/seeds mature slowly on azaleas - normally they aren't ripe until late summer, possibly Aug into October.
Here is a link that might be useful:
Thanks for posting that picture. I was wondering how to find the seeds. Linda