6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
Thanks for your comments.
I think i was looking for a miracle "something" to help me with the strawberry seeds.
they are taking a lot of time to germinate and by the time a tiny root is showing it is all so moldy that it does not develop any farther and just dies as a seed with a tiny root tail.
I have a neighbor who is a serious farmer he grows flowers for export.
he told me that he can give me some anti mold for pretreatment of the seeds , he also told me not to use damp paper towel for germination , but to use peat moss (he can give me some).
i hope i'll manage to grow some strawberries with his help.
>> ...are taking a lot of time to germinate and by the time a tiny root is showing it is all so moldy
Definitely go with the peat for germination. Peat seems to be resistant to mold, and to be doubly sure it can be easily sterilized after it's dampened by nuking it in the microwave oven (along with it's container). Mold also seems to be deterred by a warm sunny environment.
Just keep in mind that peat doesn't go far nutritionally, so don't leave sproutlets in only it much past a couple of pairs of leaves.
Google + (name of plant) seedling, click ' images ' sometimes works,
Or, seedling photos are at Seed Site. Use the Search Box followed by 'Find', the site can be a little hard to navigate.
Here is a link that might be useful: Seed Site
Thanks Goblugal. That's great to hear. About what date did they achieve full glory in your garden? Would love to see your pictures to know what they can achieve. We seem to have a great climate for guaras. The rest of mine do so well. My Sparkles have produced plants like the picture provided by LSU in their trials last year. I thought perhaps that the LSU climate is a true ideal climate since the plant originated in Texas/Louisiana.
Thanks,
Bob
Since the weather here is quite warm, I am starting more eggplant and basil outside, no cover. If rain is forecast, I'll get them under the porch.
I agree with floral_uk-if you already have sprouts inside, let them get used to being outside gradually.
indoor alternative:
start seeds in container. water lightly.. place container in a zip bag. zip bag. wait until they germinate. open zip bag a little each day, you are slowly changing their environment. once they are on their own (the bag is completely unzipped). Remove from bag. wait a couple of days and, then you can start taking them outside for a couple hours each day, hardening them off.
good luck
dave
I've been growing from seed since the mid-80's. I've started seeds under lights, in flats or cups outside, via direct sowing, and my favorite method which is winter-sowing.
One of the easiest ways is scattering seed here and there in the garden, or letting plants self-sow. Nature does the work for you that way!
After almost 30 years, I'm starting to feel a little proficient...
If you don't mind a humid environment, you could use a fish tank or clear tote with a water bath and an electric cooler designed for aquaria. The advantage might be that you could also adjust heat in a similar way with a standard tank heater. This is all mature tech.
It might seem difficult to avoid high humidity without clobbering light input, such as by using clear plastic as a vapor barrier or as a water bag, but it's not too hard.
That's one way.
You could dedicate an old mini refrigerator (dorm room fridge) and apply some mad skills vis-ÃÂ -vis copper tubing coils, a thermostat (even a pair of lowly snap discs), a teeny little pump, and so on. Plants could sit right on top of the refrigerator cabinet.
End of May, hmmm. Seems a bit late for all of those varieties? Should they not be planted in Feb.?
Or a fall planting? You must have a local nursery, (not a big box store), that can give you a guide to a vegetable garden. Or a neighbor or mentor that has had success...
I've never direct seeded an entire pack of seeds, maybe 1/3rd or less...then a week later or two weeks, seed a few more...for insurance depending on weather.
I did live in Texas one year, years ago, and followed a neighbors advice. Picked a high spot for a small garden and soon realized why it was a good idea...devastating heavy rains would have destroyed all efforts.
Find a garden club, a group that shares garden advice and get that soil ready for the next season....the basics for a healthy start without wasting money on experiments.
Many methods to divert heavy rains that do not wash away your good soil....or destroy your seedlings...but best to seek a local gardener.
Well, I checked them yesterday evening and the soil seems to still be in place, so maybe the seeds stay put. Yes, I'm a little late on the produce gardening, I was more into the flowers at the time I should have been planting others. But this is my first year, so I may be using it as my "classroom year." The pumpkins are flourishing, though, and I think the watermelons are doing alright. Here's their sprouts from two weeks ago..
I'm not convinced about the idea of ground cover around vegetables. They do not want competition - that's why we weed between them - and a mulch would be much better for them. As for the rest of the question - if you decide which plants you'd like you can then look them up to see if they are easy from seed. Ground cover isn't really a term I find useful as it applies merely to the function of a plant and says nothing about its botany or growing requirements.
In the case of perennials why not just grow more of them closer together - they don't need specific 'ground cover' - they can do the job themselves.
A living mulch is pretty common but they do often compete with the crop. I've tried clover and rye before.
Clover works very well but your veggies need to be well established first for best results and your soil needs to be as weed free as possible. Clover sprouts quickly direct seeded.
Not sure the brand of straw i have access to but it is gorgeous. Finely chopped, beautiful texture and a pale bright yellow. Pretty much my go-to mulch for herbs and veggies, and others like basil and greens i plant thick enough to not need a mulch but will side dress/mulch with a pro-mix during the grow season.
You could initially use a pro-mix as a mulch, then try direct seeding some clover thickly on the leading edge, maybe a foot around the bed....but just trying to visualize what your garden even looks like....or what veggies you are speaking of. Some need space to produce well, so competition from other plantings between means less production of crop.
Something fast growing and trailing that has one main root structure may work in some cases, like the sweet potato vines or trailing nasturtiums. Re-routing the growth back into the bed if they escape. I've used them in my brussel sprouts/broccoli/cauliflowers bed before to perk up how dull those plants look most of the early summer.
I have a corn area about 20x20 that did well with clover a couple years. Now will be a pumpkin/winter squash bed this year. (covered and not used last year). I've considered a living mulch, but a thick newspaper border covered with a bale of hay works so well and needs less tending and provides a soft surface off the ground for the crop to rest and ripen nice and dry during rainy weather...
Google 'living mulch'. Someone may have good ideas and successful companion planting advice more current... since i first read of it years ago, my ideas and use may be outdated....
Your low germination rate is likely coming from the dry storage. Several weeks of moist cold should have improved germination.
Lindera benzoin:
"Seed Collection: Collect seeds in late summer through October when the fruit has turned red. Seeds must be cleaned before storing. Store seeds in moist sand or sow immediately. Seeds allowed to dry out lose viability.
Seed Treatment: Stratify for 90-120 days at 41 degrees. "
Adding definition of stratify - period of moist cold condition. The process of pretreating seeds to simulate natural winter conditions that a seed must endure before germination. Many seed species undergo an embryonic dormancy phase, and generally will not sprout until this dormancy is broken. The time taken to stratify seeds depends on species and conditions
This post was edited by morz8 on Sun, May 25, 14 at 9:56
Basil bottom right...
The others are too early to tell. Give it a week when they start to show their true selves.
Top two might be the broccoli....
Not sure where you are as you did not add your zone...
but arugula can go right into the ground where you want it.
...if you still have seeds.
This post was edited by sleevendog on Fri, May 23, 14 at 11:58
20 yrs gardening in a difficult zone 5a, i consider myself an 'insurance' gardener...
For summer and winter squash, melons, pumpkins...., i have 12 well spaced mounds...
5 seeds in each hill last weekend...5 more will go in this weekend...and a seed starting tray i started a couple weeks ago.
They tray is doing well and still small. -these crops do not like transplanting at all but i do it close to planting time, soil warm, temps. 4-6 inches is perfect.
Really not much trouble but i avoid having to purchase with so many seeds anyway by sharing and exchanges and seed saving last years crop seeds.
Too much moisture and rain this time of year for me, we often get seed rot...they turn to mush if i look for them after no germination...
A good year all comes up fine...
With multiple seeds in a hill, i can then select the strongest plants and cull the others...
After up and strong and surviving cutworms and such maladies...3-4 plants per hill.
Easter seems like premature planting for such a warm season crop as watermelon. I doubt very much that soil temperatures were warm enough to promote germination.