6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

Also remember that after a transplant (which sounds like it was the best thing to do in your situation), the plants will act like they're doing nothing for anywhere from a few days to a little over a week. In this time, they are actually re-rooting/getting attached to their new home, literally. Give them a bit of time (and maybe a little diluted 1/4 strength fertilizer) and they will start growing again.

I actually do have the ones who are ready, already transplanted into new bigger pots with new soil. Maybe they just need some time to sit yet. I was afraid to fertilize more since the seed starter is supposed to have it already in it. SHould I fertilize anyway?

Also, I always grew in a cool room. I didn't think about the possibility of them wanting to be warmer. Everything I grew before grew like the dickens in a cool room. I don't have a set-up to keep them warmer. I would have to put them outside. WHich is ok for most days except for rainy days like today.

Is it possible that my lights have lost their power. They don't look dimmer than a couple new ones I had. I can get new ones, but don't want to just waste money.
\ thanks for the helpful suggestions. Julie

I did fertilize... and it was right after I fertilized that they all started to curl up and turn yellow. The tomatoes and peppers are loving it, but the broccoli and brussels sprouts are apparently getting burnt by it. I added 1 capful of Neptune's harvest seaweed and fish fertilizer (2-3-4) and diluted it with 2 cups of water. I think that mix may have been too strong, come to think of it... Would that cause a yellow shriveling?

Yes probably too strong. The recommended amount on the bottle of Neptunes is 1 T per Gallon of water and halving it is recommended for young seedlings.

Jon

Isn't it exciting?!!! I'm having so much fun watching everything come up...my kitchen table is COVERED. I never expected that the moss roses with seeds like little grains of sand would come up, or the verbena...they were some of the quickest!

The black eyed susan vine, however, was one of the first things I planted and one of the things I wanted most and it's not coming up. I'm so bummed.

Sorry about the black eyed susan. Maybe it's one of those that needs a lot of time? My parsley self seeded, but it took a whole year! Yes, it is exciting!! I transplanted my sweet peas outside a couple months ago, and they are now blooming. I mixed them with roses in a vase and they make the kitchen smell very sweet! Hang in with Susan! Anything with that name has got to be pretty good!
Suzi

What about Miracle Grow? 1/2 teaspoon per 2 quarts. I read somewhere that works?

This way there no need to feed them early on. Because, the garden soil and MG peat moss already have food and nutrient.

I agree. Not to mention, the seed leaves contain nutrients as well. They're full of the starches and minerals needed to keep the plant going not only until it can make true leaves aboveground, but also to get its roots established enough to gather what it needs below ground.

I mix a small amount of time-release fertilizer pellets into my potting mix when I make it (generally a mixture of peat and composted manure, but sometimes with vermiculite, perlite, or sand, depending on the type of plant). That way the nutrient concentration slowly increases as the plant ages and its needs increase, but you never have to worry about over-fertilizing (which, IMHO, is worse than under-fertilizing).

If the root was still small, it'll reorient itself. Plants are neat that way. Just try to avoid planting bulbs upside down ;)

And yes, the first thing to come out is a root. The general pattern is seed coat cracks, root emerges, root/stem pushes rest of seed out of the soil, cotlydons (seed leaves) emerge (sometimes still stuck to the seed coat), seed coat falls off, first true leaves develop, and you're off!

Upon further observance, it appears I had nothing to worry about. Out of pure curiosity I pulled one of the artichoke seedlings out to see how it was growing. (I have plenty of spares) It had already grown from 1/2" long little thing to over 5"! In just 2 days! I was impressed. I haven't checked on the 3 planted outside, this was one planted inside in a 16 oz cup. If the rain ever stops, I'll go see if the ones outside have surfaced, though I won't be pulling them out of the ground :)

Thanks cyrus. Yes I'm sure trying to germinate conifer seeds (or probably any kind of seeds) in a damp environment like a plastic bag could easily cause mold problems.

I have more seeds to try, so I will try to soak them for a day or two in water then plant them in a small container filled with sand or perhaps Turface. Hopefully both of those "soils" will help avoid mold issues and also help reduce the chances of damping off problems.

Thanks again.

Dave

Try soaking the conifer seeds briefly in hydrogen peroxiode 3%, then fill a spray bottle with peroxide diluted to 1% or use chamomile tea and use that instead of water to keep the paper towel damp. I also think coffee filters work better than paper towels.

Leaves on tomato turning purple very often indicate that they are simply too cold. Toms do not like even close to chilly temps.
Yellow leaves- fertilize them and water them as much as you think they need- not soaping wet but nice steady moisture.
I have done full strength fertilizer from the day they sent out true leaf and nothing bad happened. Have done that for years.

Being cold and a little purple probably won't kill the tomatoes, but not watering might. Mine start to yellow like you described when I let them get too dry. I start my tomatoes under lights in the basement, where it's often a little chillier than is ideal, and the undersides of their leaves are often a little purple. No big deal.