6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

Not sure about your flowers, but basil does fairly well in lower-light conditions. Peppers, well, that depends on what you're comparing it to. Better than brassicas and lettuce, not as good as basil, in my opinion. Sort of like tomatoes. They won't thrive in lower-light conditions, but they probably won't kill themselves.

In your situation, I think you'll be fine. I'd leave the CFL spots on 24-7, though, and get them as close as you can. And, obviously, use the brightest, highest kelvin temperature bulbs you can get.

Thank you! This does help. It brings to mind a tailor shop I used to walk by that always had petunias inside a small little ledge, pressed against their window. Always seemed to be blooming year round.

I forgot to mention, I'm not using growing lights either. Since it is so warm where you are, you might try it and watch them closely for ten to fifteen minutes. And again in another fifteen to make sure they aren't getting burned. Also, you could try putting them in shade so the adjustment is gradual.

Also, at night it is rather cold inside. At night it freezes enough to freeze the water in the horse water troughs. But since I'm in the high desert, the days are warm and sunny. Also, when I have them outside, I make sure to keep an eye on them so they don't dry out too much. Some of the seedlings haven't come up yet.

I know some say to keep them in the dark, but that didn't seem to matter with the ones that have already appeared.

Watch the wind & the temperature & keep them wet if in direct sunlight and you should be ok.

I too removed domes from my seedlings, but many have toppled over and died. I know they need air and light, but how often should I water them? Will they die if the peat pots dry out?

Keep the peat pots very wet & put the ones that are left in thr sunlight indoors (windowsill). Spray with fertilizer. Transplant once they're healthy.

So you are using the standard domed trays. Please note that the domes cause problems UNLESS you are planting all the same variety in the whole tray.

No way different things will germinate at the same time if you leave the dome on waiting for the late-comers the early ones are killed by damp off.

Either use separate containers and bags or tear the trays apart and plant only 1 variety in each tray. Then when some of that plant germinate it can be removed from the tray and dome and the rest can be left covered.

Domes and plastic covers are for germination only. They can kill sprouted seedlings. Once sprouted the plants need air and lots of light, not covers.

As for light, as the others have said, your light are way too far away. Fluorescent shop light kept no more than 2 inches above the top of the plants. Grow lights are not needed unless you want to spend the extra money on the.

This, as well as fertilization needs, how to transplant, etc. is explained in great detail in the FAQ's here, linked for you previously.

Dave

Thanks to you all! I will get my grow light closer, and aim for 16 hours a day.
Once they germinate, domes removed, how often should i water them?
Thanks for all your help.

I don't know about coir fiber from Vietnam but I do ammend most of my soils with coir fiber and I also use it in my reptile and amphibian cages. I buy it in compressed bricks. I just checked and they are imported from Sri Lanka. I've never had a problem. That's not a guarantee but I think I'd have seen something with my amphibians if the coir contained toxins. I do buy bricks specifically made for reptiles and amphibians and they might have stricter controls then garden supplies.

Thanks for your input Karyn. I guess we just end up trusting them. I am disappointed that I did not hear back from the company, and that the other business that sells them knew nothing about the product. Still not sure if I want to take the leap...

Being overzealous with fungicides isn't a good thing, either.

If you left the baggies on, I'd say that's almost certainly the problem. Even if not, if they went from little light to very intense light, you could be seeing something akin to insufficient hardening. Are they wilting and/or chlorotic?

It is much better to eliminate the conditions that favor the dampening off fungus than it is to kill it with chemicals. Just remember as soon as germination occurs, you should lower the temperature, hold back on the water, remove any cover and increase air circulation and light. I always assume the fungus is THERE already and make it difficult for it to grow or survive. Al

Yes they look leggy. Plants should be placed under lights right after they break the surface, or they can be placed under light when you plant the seeds.
The lights pictured should be no more than 1 inch away from the seedlings. If the lights are T12 tubes they can touch the seedlings without hurting them.

Jon

Also, your tags are WAY TOO LONG. Cut some 3 inches and only use numbers or letters as your code. then record your code and any notes into a sprial binder. Great sourse for looking back at in the future for answers to: how did I do that, what was the name of the plants that did the best, i.e.

Gardening with love, Kiee

I like Stokes a lot- I've had very good luck with their seeds and they have a great selection!

Check out the Garden Bazaar here for links to all sorts of vetted seed vendors. There is also the Rate and Review forum where folks post messages about good service and poor service vendors.

If it is primarily flower seeds you seek, then Territorial Seed Company is one of my favorites along with Stokes and Johnny's.

Dave

Go to the heirloom or tomato forums, they are very generous sharers over there.

Thanks for your advice.
I was able to get more seeds from a generous Tomato Forum member. I also puchased a new package with same day shipment from Diane's Seeds.

I planted all of them (48 in all) but, once again, got very poor germination. I had less than 15% germination from the Neves. In the same seedling tray with the same starting mix, moisture, and temperature, other varieties gave up to 100% germination.

Has anyone else had problems germinating Neves? Is there something special they need?

Thanks for you wisdom.

Bob