6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

So you are using the standard domed trays. Please note that the domes cause problems UNLESS you are planting all the same variety in the whole tray.
No way different things will germinate at the same time if you leave the dome on waiting for the late-comers the early ones are killed by damp off.
Either use separate containers and bags or tear the trays apart and plant only 1 variety in each tray. Then when some of that plant germinate it can be removed from the tray and dome and the rest can be left covered.
Domes and plastic covers are for germination only. They can kill sprouted seedlings. Once sprouted the plants need air and lots of light, not covers.
As for light, as the others have said, your light are way too far away. Fluorescent shop light kept no more than 2 inches above the top of the plants. Grow lights are not needed unless you want to spend the extra money on the.
This, as well as fertilization needs, how to transplant, etc. is explained in great detail in the FAQ's here, linked for you previously.
Dave

I don't know about coir fiber from Vietnam but I do ammend most of my soils with coir fiber and I also use it in my reptile and amphibian cages. I buy it in compressed bricks. I just checked and they are imported from Sri Lanka. I've never had a problem. That's not a guarantee but I think I'd have seen something with my amphibians if the coir contained toxins. I do buy bricks specifically made for reptiles and amphibians and they might have stricter controls then garden supplies.

Thanks for your input Karyn. I guess we just end up trusting them. I am disappointed that I did not hear back from the company, and that the other business that sells them knew nothing about the product. Still not sure if I want to take the leap...

Being overzealous with fungicides isn't a good thing, either.
If you left the baggies on, I'd say that's almost certainly the problem. Even if not, if they went from little light to very intense light, you could be seeing something akin to insufficient hardening. Are they wilting and/or chlorotic?

It is much better to eliminate the conditions that favor the dampening off fungus than it is to kill it with chemicals. Just remember as soon as germination occurs, you should lower the temperature, hold back on the water, remove any cover and increase air circulation and light. I always assume the fungus is THERE already and make it difficult for it to grow or survive. Al


yeah,but I live in a very agricultural area far off the beaten path.
Last yr when I ended up hauling all the orphans in to work to force on people I hatched the Plan. Of course the boss did to decide to take me up on i till now... love bosses..
its the funnest time of year.We do all sorts of Crazy things pies in your bosses face for most $$ raised,privilege to write your own schedule for a week..face painting all sorts of things to get the members and staff interested.
i can do 1 day of seedlings I think all on my own. But I am really hoping to be able to do 2 or 3.
Here is a link that might be useful: Article on CMN/Costco

Yes they look leggy. Plants should be placed under lights right after they break the surface, or they can be placed under light when you plant the seeds.
The lights pictured should be no more than 1 inch away from the seedlings. If the lights are T12 tubes they can touch the seedlings without hurting them.
Jon

Also, your tags are WAY TOO LONG. Cut some 3 inches and only use numbers or letters as your code. then record your code and any notes into a sprial binder. Great sourse for looking back at in the future for answers to: how did I do that, what was the name of the plants that did the best, i.e.
Gardening with love, Kiee


Check out the Garden Bazaar here for links to all sorts of vetted seed vendors. There is also the Rate and Review forum where folks post messages about good service and poor service vendors.
If it is primarily flower seeds you seek, then Territorial Seed Company is one of my favorites along with Stokes and Johnny's.
Dave


Thanks for your advice.
I was able to get more seeds from a generous Tomato Forum member. I also puchased a new package with same day shipment from Diane's Seeds.
I planted all of them (48 in all) but, once again, got very poor germination. I had less than 15% germination from the Neves. In the same seedling tray with the same starting mix, moisture, and temperature, other varieties gave up to 100% germination.
Has anyone else had problems germinating Neves? Is there something special they need?
Thanks for you wisdom.
Bob


This reminds me of my garage discovery last night. I usually start seeds in egg shells, and several of the last batch didn't sprout, so I stacked 3 egg cartons with (dead) seeds on the table in the garage.
Last night I noticed a strange white string about 10" long, coming from the bottom carton. OMG! It was a nastursium seedling. It has it's true leaves, but they are pale green and tiny! I'll put it in the ground and cross my fingers, but I don't have much hope for it at all.
I know you can try burying the entire stem, but I'll have to dig a hole a foot deep, and I'll cover some of it's leaves that started half way down that stem.
Gonna give it a try! Wish me luck? And good luck to you with your Marigold!!

You guys are so funny! :) Obviously the video is horrid, but as a beginner, I wondered if it would be worth it. I think it's a resounding "no"! I never thought of using chopsticks, but that's a great idea, as is the bulb planter idea.
Glad to have great (and funny!) resources here.
Thank you!
Deb

Chopsticks are a great idea! I mostly start seeds in egg shells, and when I plant them, I just give the shell a squeeze to break it up a bit, put shell and all in the ground, and I don't have a problem with wilting or anything! (Plus the shell adds nutrients to the soil too)
Yesterday I set out nastursiums, Cosmos, and Marigolds, and they all look perky this morning. I'm waiting for my pepper plants to get some true leaves. They transplant better for me that way.
Good luck Deb!


I am not sure what your problem is, except to say that is not dampening off (fungus). I would highly suggest that you repot them, and bury the stems another couple of inches at least. Do not neglect watering them. Toms love warmth as well. I think they should be ok if you repot them. They will send roots out from the stem.
Carrie


I'll second karenrei and add possible over-watering.
Keep soil very moist until seedlings emerge then allow soil to become just barely moist before watering again. Do not keep the soil constantly wet or very moist. If you use a humidity dome (They have not been necessary or helpful in my experience) remove it once seedlings have emerged.
Keep florouescent tube lights no more then 2 inches above the seedlings. In the winter and early spring there is not really enough sunlight coming in through a window to grow seedlings well (at least in my area in zone 5, in Maine).

As a general rule, you shoule transplant the seedlings when they have established a good root system and a second set of true leaves.
Also, it is usually recommended to transplant the established seedling in a pot about 4 inches in diameter before transplanting outside.


I too removed domes from my seedlings, but many have toppled over and died. I know they need air and light, but how often should I water them? Will they die if the peat pots dry out?
Keep the peat pots very wet & put the ones that are left in thr sunlight indoors (windowsill). Spray with fertilizer. Transplant once they're healthy.