6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

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seattlemamadrama(8 - Seattle)

You guys are so funny! :) Obviously the video is horrid, but as a beginner, I wondered if it would be worth it. I think it's a resounding "no"! I never thought of using chopsticks, but that's a great idea, as is the bulb planter idea.

Glad to have great (and funny!) resources here.
Thank you!
Deb

    Bookmark     April 3, 2009 at 8:18PM
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Suzi AKA DesertDance So CA Zone 9b

Chopsticks are a great idea! I mostly start seeds in egg shells, and when I plant them, I just give the shell a squeeze to break it up a bit, put shell and all in the ground, and I don't have a problem with wilting or anything! (Plus the shell adds nutrients to the soil too)

Yesterday I set out nastursiums, Cosmos, and Marigolds, and they all look perky this morning. I'm waiting for my pepper plants to get some true leaves. They transplant better for me that way.

Good luck Deb!

    Bookmark     April 4, 2009 at 10:35AM
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yiorges-z5il

Would delay setting these out till after the fast frost date.... Here in Springfield Illnois may delay till after Mothers Day.... althougt the average frost free date is April 15th

    Bookmark     April 3, 2009 at 6:20PM
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gardenfanatic(MO zone5b)

The perennials might be alright if you hardened them off when it's a fairly warm week. However, the impatiens and vinca definitely would not make it. Vinca likes it HOT, and both vinca and impatiens will die if exposed to frost.

Deanna

    Bookmark     April 4, 2009 at 12:52AM
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barefoot_contessa(5a)

I am not sure what your problem is, except to say that is not dampening off (fungus). I would highly suggest that you repot them, and bury the stems another couple of inches at least. Do not neglect watering them. Toms love warmth as well. I think they should be ok if you repot them. They will send roots out from the stem.

Carrie

    Bookmark     April 3, 2009 at 3:58PM
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dicot

I would agree with the above poster. Pick off the bottom leaves and bury it deep. The damage looks like it was caused by inconsistent watering when young and the stem shriveling when thirsty.

    Bookmark     April 3, 2009 at 4:01PM
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Karen Pease

Your seeds are "leggy", and that means they're not getting enough light.

    Bookmark     April 3, 2009 at 1:10PM
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hatchjon

I'll second karenrei and add possible over-watering.
Keep soil very moist until seedlings emerge then allow soil to become just barely moist before watering again. Do not keep the soil constantly wet or very moist. If you use a humidity dome (They have not been necessary or helpful in my experience) remove it once seedlings have emerged.

Keep florouescent tube lights no more then 2 inches above the seedlings. In the winter and early spring there is not really enough sunlight coming in through a window to grow seedlings well (at least in my area in zone 5, in Maine).

    Bookmark     April 3, 2009 at 3:46PM
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bucklesnbows(z 6)

As a general rule, you shoule transplant the seedlings when they have established a good root system and a second set of true leaves.

Also, it is usually recommended to transplant the established seedling in a pot about 4 inches in diameter before transplanting outside.

    Bookmark     April 3, 2009 at 3:38PM
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hatchjon

Beans don't transplant very well. Perhaps you could try to explain to her that beans liked to be planted directly in the garden? I have a feeling that 3 year olds are not very patient, but if she plants some outside after the weather warms up she will be eating beans soon enough.
In the interim why not start some tomato seedlings inside.

Jon

    Bookmark     April 3, 2009 at 3:35PM
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Karen Pease

Meh, it's soil. :) As long as it's not too dense and it retains water, I personally wouldn't worry.

    Bookmark     April 3, 2009 at 1:17PM
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morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

Chloe, haven't grown it but from the book Oriental Vegetables, it looks like you may be sowing too deep. It's suggested there that some light may be beneficial to germination, sow the large seed only partially covered or as deep as 1/4". Soak overnight or nick before sowing.

The suggestions go on to say they will germinate but erratically direct sown, better may be to start them indoors and transplant plants when small before any sign of the taproot developing. Will germinate at temps as low as 50F (10C) but optimum results at 68-77F (20-25C)

    Bookmark     April 3, 2009 at 11:55AM
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Karen Pease

You're *trying* to grow burdock? Why? Do you need some Smartweed or Lamb's Quarters to go with it? I can send you a ton! ;)

    Bookmark     April 3, 2009 at 1:14PM
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retiredprof(7)

Sketches: I'm a Philly boy from way back, and I've never been able to over-winter cannas. You have to dig them up every Fall or they will winter-kill.

    Bookmark     April 2, 2009 at 6:08PM
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donperkins(MS z7b)

My cannas spread like crazy & the only time I have to dig them up is to move some to another part of the yard.

    Bookmark     April 3, 2009 at 2:27AM
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nbreau

thanks for the comments.

I water between the pellets as low as possible.

    Bookmark     April 2, 2009 at 9:38PM
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tn_veggie_gardner(7)

Absolutely remove the netting immediately. Those are some beautiful plants, but they won't be for long if you don't transplant within a day or two and move them to something bigger.Grab some 16-20 oz clear plastic cups & some MG Moisture Control. It may be hard to separate the plants in the same pellet, but i'd recommend getting a flat head screwdriver and also one of those mini-screwdrivers. Take the pellet & gently use the flathead screwdriver to break off the edges (don't get close to plants) of the pellets. Then, once you see some root, dig carefully around them with the mini screwdriver. Separate the plants, put into cups with some of the MG (make a little hole for the seedling so it gets buried almost up to it's first set of leaves). Firm the soil down with your finger lightly (so plant can still breathe & get some water) and so gthe plant stands straight up on it's own. Then, add a 1/2 inch or so more soil (still below or right at first set of leaves). don't press it down as much or at all. Get you a spray gun filled with some water (and maybe 1/4 teaspoon of MG Tomato food). Spray each seedling about 25 times (until water stands on surface for a while). Sit in a sunny location (inside for now, unless you're in FL). They will root them selves into their new home, literally over a few days (you'll see roots on the side of the cup when this is about done). Then, watch them babies grow until it's time to place in the ground, depedning upon your location).

Peace - Steve

    Bookmark     April 2, 2009 at 10:04PM
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jessicavanderhoff(7 Md)

that was supposed to say "plump" not "olump"

    Bookmark     April 2, 2009 at 9:01AM
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ashley_minnig

hello all good news , I think they got a little chilled for one thing but I highly believe it was the soiless mix I was growing them in. I didn't transplant until they developed there first set of true leaes and by then they started looking rather badd.

Within a week of transplant to a different mix containing sea based compost and fert. at 1/4 strength with "Neptunes Harvest Seaweed and Fish Emulsion they look great!

Here they are now. ( I should post the before pics! They looked AWFUL!)

    Bookmark     April 2, 2009 at 9:40PM
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tn_veggie_gardner(7)

When I do grow cucumbers or zuchini's, I never transplant. I always start the seeds in a normal large (and wide) container.

    Bookmark     April 2, 2009 at 2:01PM
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hatchjon

karenrei: Good point. I think I fell into the trap of assuming his climate was like mine, i.e still snow on the ground.

Jon

    Bookmark     April 2, 2009 at 7:54PM
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seattlemamadrama(8 - Seattle)

What a total bummer. Thank you for the warning. I am a new gardener too and we happen to own a labelmaker, but I went with the old Sharpie on sticks method. I was thinking about using the label maker for the next starts--warning heeded!

Good luck with your surprises! :)
Deb Seattle

    Bookmark     April 2, 2009 at 4:23PM
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ontheteam(5a-6 (S.Eastern, MA))

YA know the sharpie stick thing worked for a little bit till I started potting up.. Now I do not know which are the h ot peppers and which are the Bells...

    Bookmark     April 2, 2009 at 6:24PM
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hatchjon

You should be fine. Peppers should be started 8 weeks before planting out and tomatoes should be started 6 weeks before planting out. Both the peppers and tomatoes will start growing more rapidly over the next few weeks.

Make sure you water only when the soil is almost completely dry, and not just dry on top. If you are using tube floroescents you should have the plants as close as possible, touching is fine with t12 tubes but no more than 2 inches away.

Jon

    Bookmark     April 1, 2009 at 1:57PM
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witchywoman51(6-7)

Thanks so much for all of your help. I guess I just need to be a little more patient.

    Bookmark     April 2, 2009 at 5:57PM
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Karen Pease

I never fertilize seedlings, and the whole concept doesn't make much sense to me. Seedlings carry the energy and nutrients that they need for their early life in their seed leaves. The most mine ever get is a small amount of time-release fertilizer that I mix in when I make my soil mixture.

If your seedlings damped off, I'd assume you were watering too much. How do you determine your watering schedule? Also, what sort of soil are you growing them in? I'd be more concerned with fungus residing in your soil than on your seeds.

I'm curious -- was the damping off in seedlings that were watered with peroxide or not?

    Bookmark     April 2, 2009 at 12:26PM
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newbie_in_nj(6b E/Central NJ)

I've watered all the seedlings with 5% hydrogen peroxide water solution...including the few that damped off in that one 9 pack.

I used the Miracle Gro soilless seed germination mix.

Used ProMix with Biofungicide last year for starting seeds (without lights)and that mix was lighter. I liked it better.

I watered when they felt dry. Didn't think I was supposed to water on "schedule" whether they needed water or not. It's possible I overwatered and the others just didn't suffer.

    Bookmark     April 2, 2009 at 5:00PM
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