6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

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coke_nut(9b Orlando)

Don't worry about it plays in dirt dirt. Well my seed is in the refrigerator chilling.
Thanks

    Bookmark     July 10, 2007 at 3:52PM
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kylew

So I have peach pits in the fridge that have been chilled all winter. I have now taken them out. Should the pits be cracked to speed/help germination?
These are supposedly "heirloom" and come true but my real goal is to graft/bud onto them.

    Bookmark     March 26, 2009 at 1:36PM
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sarahbarah27(5)

Thanks! That was a big help! I just wanted to make sure I was on the right track. I can't wait to get it put in!!!
Sarah

    Bookmark     March 25, 2009 at 3:30PM
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gmom2-6boys

greatfulgardner3300
Never heard of a rain garden before. After reading your posting it sounds like a bog garden but maybe dryer? The flower list sounds like the list for the bog garden. I would like to build one where the creek overflows in early spring.

gmom2-6boys
Sharon

    Bookmark     March 25, 2009 at 11:07PM
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crb82(7b-8a)

battery acid???

    Bookmark     March 25, 2009 at 7:19PM
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morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

Another method -

"Both male and female plants are required for seed production. Sow fresh seeds in a coldframe as soon as they are ripe in the fall. "Green" seeds that are fully developed, but not yet dry and hard, germinate most readily; they can be expected to sprout in the spring when Fall sown.

If stored, seeds should be warm stratified for 2-3 months at 60ºF then cold stratified for 2-3 more months. It may take them a year to germinate when brought back to 60ºF.

(Seed production can be low/sparse and favored by finches so watch carefully so you don't time it wrong and lose them before harvest)

    Bookmark     March 25, 2009 at 10:40PM
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tn_veggie_gardner(7)

Whew! I felt like I was playing Operation potting up those tiny seedlings to 16 oz cups, but it is now done. I think I may loose the first one I did. ;) I'm glad they have new homes. The root clusters were pulling out half the potting mix from the Jiffy cups. Anyways, it's done...yay!

    Bookmark     March 24, 2009 at 9:41PM
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tn_veggie_gardner(7)

Ok, here are the pictures, after transplanting what I had enough soil for, to 16 oz plastic cups. I also did some labelling. :) Still not good enough though, as I lost track of a few of my pellets (Jalapeno's? maybe...Serrano's? maybe). Anyways, I feel better now knowing that all of my tomatoes are in bigger cups. The first picture is a few of my Cherry Tomatoes, started on March 10th. The second picture is my remaining seedlings (all about 1 & 1/2 to 3 inches). Potting up early makes sooooo much of a difference!...

    Bookmark     March 25, 2009 at 10:18PM
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ten_yr_plan

thanks new2all! Seems as soon as I find an answer to a ? I hve, I find another 2 questions pop up.

    Bookmark     March 25, 2009 at 7:03PM
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yiorges-z5il

SEED NEED A PRETREATMENT STORE AT 70F FOR 4 WEEKS THEN AT 40F FOR THEN SOIL TEMP 68-71F TO GERMINATE
YES WILL FORM A BULB BUT MAY TAKE 7 YEARS TO FLOWER

    Bookmark     March 25, 2009 at 3:36PM
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sewobsessed

It's probably because it won't grow true from collected seed?

    Bookmark     March 25, 2009 at 6:42AM
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kudzu9(Zone 8a - PNW)

Yes, that was my first thought, but I was hoping it wasn't true.

So does anyone know if mondo grass is some kind of hybrid plant that can only be propagated from divisions and offsets?

    Bookmark     March 25, 2009 at 1:53PM
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Karen Pease

No. Just keep it far enough way that if you hold your hand at the level the seedlings will be at, the light only feels slightly warm on your skin. If it feels hot on your skin, it's probably too close. If you can't feel it, it's probably too far.

    Bookmark     March 25, 2009 at 12:29AM
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calistoga_al ca 15 usda 9

When you remove the dome you are going from 100% humidity to what ever your household humidity might be. Do you know what it is? I can tell if my cuttings are rooted by how they respond to to removing their tent. If they are not rooted the wilting will be dramatic and within a few minutes. This should not happen with seedlings unless the difference in humidity is great, or the area is moving a lot of air, or moisture is lacking in the root zone. Al

    Bookmark     March 24, 2009 at 9:23AM
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oldpea(8)

I did not mean to imply that a carbon monoxide detector would detect a natural gas leak, but when plants die so suddenly when exposed to the air in the area, it would make one concerned about the air quality, and for gardenwillie's safety, I was just trying to give him a direction to check. O.k.? : )

    Bookmark     March 24, 2009 at 8:05PM
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Karen Pease

Depends on the type of seedlings. Brassicas can take colder temperatures than eggplants, for example.

Best to be patient if you're not sure.

    Bookmark     March 24, 2009 at 11:25AM
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rachel_z6(7)

haha!
eric, i applaud you on your clean laundry room! mine is covered in dirt and strewn with pots, seed packets, and garden stuff and plants brought in for the winter :)

    Bookmark     March 23, 2009 at 10:36PM
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eric30

You should see the rest of the place, looks like the Tasmanian Devil came through! Thanks for the compliment!

    Bookmark     March 24, 2009 at 12:42AM
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gracecar

Same happened to me. I was keeping my broccoli, cauliflower and cabbage a few inches under flourescents for 16 hours daily, yet they still grew leggy and fell over. I re-potted them up to their leaves, which did the trick beautifully, and they have since transplanted very happily.

    Bookmark     March 23, 2009 at 10:41PM
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blake0808

Thanks, I will replant them up to their leaves:) That sounds better than waiting to see if they make it or don't. It helps to know it worked out well for you.

Your help is much appreciated!

    Bookmark     March 23, 2009 at 11:42PM
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Karen Pease

I DO have a floursescent light in my basement..how close to the light to they have to be?

Preferably inches. Or less. It takes a lot of light hitting those leaves to convince the plants not to go leggy.

I assume 24 hours also?

That depends. There's still a good bit of debate about whether it helps, and it seems to vary from species to species and setup to setup. But in general, it usually helps.

    Bookmark     March 23, 2009 at 4:14PM
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eric30

I also chose to not spend money on new equipment. Here is my setup. Note that I am a first timer at this. Notice how I have the shop light bearing down on the seedlings. I go for 16 hours of light per day. When germinating your seeds I would recommend putting them someplace warm until they sprout, then move them to the light. Top of fridge, water heater, on the dryer when it is running... or your basement might be warm enough.

Also as tn_gardner stated, folks have been starting seeds in a window for many years.

Here is a link that might be useful:

    Bookmark     March 23, 2009 at 5:39PM
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kms4me

Blooming plants can be had very quickly from cuttings. Soft wood cuttings root really easily with rooting hormones and warmth. Since wisteria needs regular pruning, maybe you can find someone to share cuttings with you.

Not only can seed grown wisteria take a decade or more to bloom, the quality and quantity of bloom can vary highly from plant to plant. I have heard that some plants from seed NEVER bloom... So, I hope you can find cuttings.

kms

    Bookmark     March 20, 2009 at 12:20AM
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butterflybabe

I planted 1 wisteria plant 14 years ago and it has bloomed every year since then. Every seed that it makes also sprouts and will bloom in a year or 2! I have to take the seeds off or it will take over!

    Bookmark     March 23, 2009 at 3:01PM
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