6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
It would depend on the size of your plastic cells since they come in all sorts of sizes, but alyssum is one that can easily be planted in hunks. Check out the 'hunk of seedlings" (aka HOS) FAQ here on how to do it.
If "leggy" then much more light is needed.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: HOS FAQ
You can post this on the Seed Saving forum (linked at the top of this forum's front page). There are also several FAQ's there on how to collect and save various types of seeds, storage tips, how hybrids differ from open pollinated varieties, and much more.
You might also post over on the Perennials forum about the specific varieties for specific details. I know Red Sea is a relatively new hybrid sold as an F1 so it likely won't breed true but I don't know about the purple one. But if a Goggle of the variety names doesn't tell you if it is a hybrid or an OP or if it is a stabilized hybrid, the folks on the perennials forum will likely know.
Hope this helps.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Perennials
Oh, I didn't even think of them being a hybrid. Darn it! I bought a few different seeds that I though were perennials, and when I looked up more detailed info, I found them to be annuals. For example: Monarda bergamo(beebalm, this type happens to be an annual) Rudbeckia 'Maya'(Black-eyed Susan, another type that is annual). Oh well, I guess I will never assume anything again when ordering seeds!!!
Sarah
Standard flats (trays) are 21x10.5. Is that what you need? If so most all of the xommon seed companies like Gurneys, Harris, Johnnys, Jungs, etc. offer them or if you want bulk quantities check out Novosel. They have good prices on all the basic equipment.
Otherwise your best bet is one of the greenhouse supply companies like FarmTek or Charleys.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Novosel
Dave,
Thanks for the response. I'm looking for 8 x 20's or 12 x 20's to hold 4" square pots. It's such a waste of space under the lights to use 1020's. The closest thing I have found are some cookie sheets that I have that are 12 x 16 but again, they waste space.
Rick
Wow...seedling mania! =) They are a bit leggy, but not as much as many others i've seen. Simply provide them plenty of light (preferably sun, if zone permits) & replant leaving about the top third above the soil (if you have the time...that's a lot of seedlings!).
Thanks for the advice Dave. I've been leaving the lids open for a couple of hours at a time. While the white stuff hasn't disappeared, I think it might be lessening but happily the seeds have actually started to germinate and the seedlings are beginning to poke out :-)
I guess they didn't get too grossed out.
Amna
Much too involved to try to give you a list, it's best to look up each plant on a reliable germination database for suggestions.
Here's one that's good although the suggestions are most often for seed that has been dried and stored or purchased commercially. Seeds freshly harvested may have different requirements.
Here is a link that might be useful: Clothiers
Yeah I'm sure I planted columbine. I collected the seed myself and I have so many different types that I collect alot of it. I've just never planted any before. I guess I expected tiny little columbine looking seedlings LOL. They currently are tiny, and each have 2-3 leaves, but don't look like columbine leaves. Outnproud, I have 82 varieties of sedum lol..but the only sedum I would say these look like is maybe a sarmentosum, but in shape only not texture.
I'll take a picture and post it that would probably help.
I JUST SUCK IT UP AND BUY THE 72 CELL TRAYS. (sorry caps) ive tried other el-cheapo methods, but i always wish i had trays with tops once the weather warms up enuf to put everything outside during the day... i get a few years out of them, so i just buy 2 or 3 every year and keep the rotation going... watering with in-town tap water keeps disease and green slime at bay :) for only 4 bucks at dollar general, i dont want to bother hauling 500+ single seedlings in and out every day for 2 months
I have been planting artichokes in my zone 5 garden for 10 years. But the variety of seed you purchased might be very important. I've been planting imperial star hybrid that were bred for setting flowers (you eat the flower bud before it opens) the first year from seed. I have no experience with other cultivars. Its not too late to plant your seed for fruit production this year if you have the imperial star seed. You may inquire of the seed company of origin if you have another variety.
I don't know the viability of artichoke seed but I always have seed left over from the previous year which germinate quite successfully for me.
I plant my artichokes right in the ground. I don't think you'll have to worry about summer heat in your zone, after all they're grown in California and in the Mediterranean. They like good soil and adequate moisture, and many people say at least 15 days in cool temps (40F-50F) in order to set fruit. I've had fine production without this "chill period".
Good luck. I planted 25 seeds this year. Hoping for enough to pick them very young when the whole thing is edible, and maybe some for freezing as well.
Wanted to clarify.....
Start seeds in pots indoors beginning of March, then transplant into the ground after danger of frost. I do not plant them in pots so I can move them around. No need to do that. I've tried overwintering them with little success. Its easier to start them form seed each year.
Are they still bright? If so, keep them. If not, get rid of them. That's the real test.
Cool bulbs (high kelvin temperature) are better for starting seeds than warm bulbs, as they have more blue light.
Any bulbs can be used for seed starting. Even LPS, which has a just awful spectrum in terms of PUR (your plants will just end up chlorotic and with starchy leaves if that's all you grow them with). CFLs are just fine, in terms of spectrum. The big issue is how much light -- it takes a *lot* of light energy to replicate the sun. For best results, pack those bulbs in tight and keep them just inches off of your plants. The bluer the better, of course. Oh, and a reflector setup doesn't hurt.
Yes the lumen output drops off drastically with time. If possible, many recommend using fresh bulbs each year because of the measureable fall in output. A good compromise is to replace at least one of the bulbs in each fixture. That spreads the cost out over 2 years anyway. A good indicator is the amount of black at the ends of the tubes.
Personally I have never found the need for special grow bulbs - just plain old 'cool' fluorescent work fine and are much less expensive.
Dave