6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
As long as your energy to move your plants twice a day holds out, your plants will reward you. There is no comparison at all between shop lights and sunlight. The difference in the foot candles of light between the two comes as a shock to most gardeners. It is not unusual for plants coming out of the greenhouse into the sunlight to be killed from the shock. We usually must harden the plants by easing them a few hours at a time into the sunshine. Al
Thanks for the advice.
I know all about hardening them off. For a few years I could not understand why my perfectly fabulous plants dropped dead within days of being planted! This is the first day they are in full sun for most of the day. I started by bringing them out only for a few hours in dappled sunlight, increasing the amount of time they where out, keeping the greenhouse in part shade for the afternoon. They are looking good, so I got a bit braver today and set them up in more direct light for longer, we shall see ;-)
The first seed experience that I remember was my grandmother taking a fruit jar, filling it with soil and pressing seed down the side so I could watch the germination.
Now we are cluttered with plastic containers that could be used. I would just put something in a plastic glass, press the seed down the inside and observe daily what was happening. I cannot imagine it making more than a couple hours difference which way the seed of placed.
joenate,
I would post this in the lawn forum, you will get a good answer there for any lawn question you may have.
Anyway, the best time to sow grass seed is in early September for cool grass types like Kentucky Blue grass (KBG). Once the seeds germinate they will not be subject to the intense summer heat which can kill the seedlings quickly. Even when the grass is nearly 3 " tall, the root system is still not mature and shallow. Any time that top layer of soil dries out, more likley so will you new grass. Also, crab grass germinates in the spring, so all of the nutrients that you put down for the new grass, the new crabgrass will also be enjoying.
However, this is not to say you can't plant grass in the spring. You just need to be aware of the heat and water conditions more than the fall.
What kind of seeds should you buy? Well that depends on you yard. Does the lawn get at least 5-6 hours of direct sun through out the day? if so then KBG is a good choice. KBG is vbery aggressive and if cultivated properly, it will choke out most weeds in the second season.
If you do not get that much direct sunlight, then there are other grasasses that are more shade tolerant.
I would go to your nearest lesco outfit and purchase a good quality grass seed from them, unless you want to be a total lawn nazi like myself. Then I would research a little more and order sod quality seeds that perform for your area.
When you get your seeds...
If you do choose to plant in the spring, A good rule of thumb is to sow the seeds right after the forsythias bloom. rake the dirt or use a core airateor to loosen the soil a bit. Spread the seeds and a starter fertilizer, then roll the seeds to ensure good seed to soil contact. You can cover lightly with straw to help keep the moisture in.
Watering...
For the first 3 or 4 weeks, you should water lightly 3 times a day. Careful not to make any puddles. After the seeds germinate, then cut back to 2 times a day for another week, then once a day for anoter 2 weeks. It will be a balancing act since by then the sun will be HOT and you can't allow the seedlings to totally dry out. Keep cutting back on the watering frequency while adding more water each time that you do water. Every other day, then 2 times a week, and finally and forever, 1" of water once a week.
After the new grass is about 4" you can mow, but make sure the blades are sharp.
Fertilizing...
This is a much debated subject. Organic or synthetic? I personally have more of a hybrid approach. I use organic fertiliaers such as soybean meal and Milorganite all summer long. then my last time fertilizing in the fall, i use a high nitrogen synthetic fertilizer for early spring green up. If you buy synthetic fertilizer, DO NOT use in the heat of the summer, too many bad things can happen.
so that's it in a nutshell. Take a stroll over to the lawn forum for any further questions. I learned from those guys back in 2005 and I now have a very nice lawn that even stays green all winter.
Don't let the bright sun fool your eyes, the grass is really a dark green. This part of my yard was renovated in 2007 and the pic was taken in 08/08, less than one year later.
Your refrigerator shouldn't be too warm or your food wouldn't be safe...right around the 40F zone should be fine. Clothiers: Alstroemeria aurantiaca, hookerii, ligtu, and pulchella , Sow at Max. 5ºC (41ºF), germ. irregular, often several mos.
I find the refrigerator a bit of a pain for them though because they will start germinating at 40 and usually when you least expect it and don't notice...they can take a very long time, into months.
What would you do with the plants in your cold zone 4 though?
They are hardy outside here and self sow into some very odd places. When I've sown fresh seed, I give them a warm moist period in baggie of vermiculite on my desk about 6 weeks to copy mother nature, sow and move them outdoors where they will have some occasional overnight freezing in winter but they shouldn't need the frost. They start germinating in late winter while our temps are still averaging (day/night) approximately 40.
tournesol and jon, i grow celeriac just about every year from seed. I would transplant 3" seedling into individual pots now (i use square ones about 3.5"), put those into a flat and under lights. they'll develop a good root system and they sure look sweet, like miniature greenhouse foliage plants. then, whenever the soil and temps are right outside in your zone, you can plant them out. they're reasonably cold hardy and I wouldn't worry about a maverick frost, though if it's severe you might cover them up. it's good to get them out as early as possible, so you have nice big knobs by the end of summer and early fall. the one thing they need is constant moisture, so be sure to mulch them fairly heavily. GaryStPaul
Are you using peat pots?
And are they flopping over because of too much water, or because they are leggy?
I have two ways of watering, both seem to work ok.
1.) I water from the bottom, adding much more water then I know they will need. I let them sit for a few minutes, and when they look right, I drain off the excess.
2.) I don't let them dry out, when they get close to that point, I add some water to the bottom, but make sure it is not enough to get them soaking wet.
What type of plants are you growing? How many leaves / how call are they?
First, the medium holding the moisture for your moist chill must be sterile. Seeds sown outdoors, direct sown or self sown, aren't subjected to conditions that result in damp off of seedlings so sterility isn't an issue there. Algae, mold, bacteria can grow at the approx 40 of your refrigerator. Sterile moist sand and moist vermiculite are what I've used and had good results with both. The finer grade perlite would work too and I can't think why your cactus sand would not be reasonable unless I'm underestimating the size of the particles...it is just coarse sand, right?
A tiny zip lock with just a teaspoon or two or the moist medium takes care of the moisture need without taking up refrigerator space. When the time for the chill is complete, you can sow the contents of the bag - sand, vermuculite etc along with your seeds without having to extract the seeds.
Milkweed (asclepias) should not begin to germinate until brought back to warm (although seeds for some plants will)
Do you know which milkweed you have? Asclepias speciosa, fascicularis, physocarpa, syriaca will normally germinate without the chill.
Those are beauties and definitely ready for transplant, IMO. If you have a lot, I'd plant them in those plastic flats for later transplant directly to the garden (maybe 32 per flat). Or, if you want them bigger, you could pot them up, into, say, 2.5" plastic pots or a bit larger. You can use the same or other mix, it doesn't matter much. If you want, you could also start using a dilute 1/4 tsp to gallon or so liquid fertilizer. GaryStPaul
I sowed the fine seeds of Lobelia cardinalis & L. sessifolia on the surface of moist peat-based potting soil contained in a large flat pot. The pot was then covered with a pane of glass and placed in a shaded, warm greenhouse. The seeed germinated extremely well without light and quickly reached a size that could be potted in small pots. I believe warmth is much more important than light. Good luck!!!
I'm going to water today, and inoculate w/ some rich earth, I'll raise the lights a bit more before they go back under.
It may be a little early for pumpkins. Last year I had them in my greenhouse for too long and they turned yellowish and thin looking. But they are also very suseptable to powdery mildew, make sure when you water to try and and avoid getting leaves wet. The soil should be kept moist, but not soaking wet. Usually pumpkins should be started 2-3wks before the last frost.
Good Luck!!!
Agree it is just fungus on the soil surface from being too wet. Air exposure and letting the soil surface dry a bit will kill it.
Dave
Thanks so very much! Lid is off and once it's a little drier, I'll give another dose of "damp off". Seed has not germinated so I'm hoping that everything will be ok.
I appreciate the advice!!!
Michelle