6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
Those are beauties and definitely ready for transplant, IMO. If you have a lot, I'd plant them in those plastic flats for later transplant directly to the garden (maybe 32 per flat). Or, if you want them bigger, you could pot them up, into, say, 2.5" plastic pots or a bit larger. You can use the same or other mix, it doesn't matter much. If you want, you could also start using a dilute 1/4 tsp to gallon or so liquid fertilizer. GaryStPaul
I sowed the fine seeds of Lobelia cardinalis & L. sessifolia on the surface of moist peat-based potting soil contained in a large flat pot. The pot was then covered with a pane of glass and placed in a shaded, warm greenhouse. The seeed germinated extremely well without light and quickly reached a size that could be potted in small pots. I believe warmth is much more important than light. Good luck!!!
I'm going to water today, and inoculate w/ some rich earth, I'll raise the lights a bit more before they go back under.
It may be a little early for pumpkins. Last year I had them in my greenhouse for too long and they turned yellowish and thin looking. But they are also very suseptable to powdery mildew, make sure when you water to try and and avoid getting leaves wet. The soil should be kept moist, but not soaking wet. Usually pumpkins should be started 2-3wks before the last frost.
Good Luck!!!
Maybe try soaking for a day or two, but the seeds don't remain viable very long and if they have to be stored, it's best done in the refrigerator where the temperature is more or less constant. If these have been dry and at room temperature for a year, treat sowing as an experiment and don't set your expectations too high.
Yes, great idea! They work like little mini-terrariums. Those of us that do a lot of Winter Sowing use many of them as well as milk jugs, plastic juice bottles and any other plastic container. If the container can't be cut to fit inside itself, duct tape works well. ;)
You can find many discussions on using them over on the Winter Sowing Forum here.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Winter Sowing Forum
I liked it so much I made a copy off the internet www.toppers--place.com/pop_bottle.pots.htm You never know how many people we know would like to know the same thing. After they are collected and made up there is more time than money if you ask around for some one who drinks soft drinks. Saves all that going into the trash can. If you don't have a sodiering gun a drill will do just as well. And they can be used over at least until they give out.
Yellowing of seedling leaves is almost always due to excessive watering. Peppers need to almost dry out between waterings. A mild dose of 1/4-1/2 strength liquid fertilizer the next time you water should pick them up.
Hopefully they are growing in a soil-less potting mix rather than soil? ;)
Dave
PS: to post a picture you have to first store it somewhere online - photobucket is a common album storage one. Then copy and paste the HTML URL for it (the one that begins
There is a detailed step-by-step how to FAQ over on the Growing Tomatoes forum that will answer most of your questions. I linked it below.
Only 3 days? Then I sure wouldn't be worried yet. Start being a little concerned after 10-12 days. ;) 75 degree SOIL temp can get you germination in 30 days but you don't have that - one reason why using bottom heat is so strongly recommended. 70 degree air temp translates to 50-60 degree soil temp in wet soil. At that temp, germination may take up to 2 weeks.
Mold is a sign that your peat pellets are too wet. That too can slow germination. They don't need to be pitched, just allowed to dry a bit with some air exposure. Just prop up the dome a bit for a few hours a day.
Transplanting is usually done once the plants develop at least 1 set of true leaves and feeding begins - using a diluted 1/4 to 1/2 strength liquid fertilizer shortly after transplanting IF the potting mix you use does not already contain some fertilizers.
You can transplant them into anything from nursery cell packs to foam coffee cups with holes punched in the bottom and filled with any good quality soil-less potting mix. Be sure to remove the pellet netting at that time.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: FAQ - How to grow tomatoes from seed
Thank you,
Yeah I knew that I did not have much to worry about, I just have nothing else to obsess over (I usually go from researching green cars to home to plant to anything). I am going to get a spray bottle because the top of the pellets get dry before the bottom. I am going to try and find a spot where they will be a little warmer.
I am going out for dinner now and then I am going to the store, hope all goes well
Mack
That quick? I thought it would take a couple of weeks! I am planning on covering my raised bed with clear plastic this weekend in order to get the soil to warm a bit more.
I've considered making a plastic bent-pvc cold frame over the bed, but I'm actually a bit worried about that too. If it's over 70 one day I'm worried it'll get too hot and when it's 40 won't it still be too cold?
Or once their hardened off, will they be okay unless it's under freezing? Would covering them with plastic in late afternoon keep them from getting too cold at night - once they are in the garden?
Can you tell I've never used transplants of early-season veggies? :-)
The plants you mentioned should be able to take cool temps, but of course, not freezing. Covering them at night and uncovering in the morning should keep them safe from frost after you've planted them out. If you're still worried about them after just a week of hardening off(if temps dip for an extended period), you could certainly go another week before planting. It all depends on the temps, especially at night, in your area.
I made that mistake the first time. I've not mixed seeds under each dome. They are doing well.
Anyone have any luck with Huchera seeds? I haven't seen any growth yet and the seeds are not showing sprouts yet.
Also, does anyone use the grow lights from walmart? I think next year I'll upgrade to some finer quality lights, but this year its budget lighting (and doing ok).
First, the medium holding the moisture for your moist chill must be sterile. Seeds sown outdoors, direct sown or self sown, aren't subjected to conditions that result in damp off of seedlings so sterility isn't an issue there. Algae, mold, bacteria can grow at the approx 40 of your refrigerator. Sterile moist sand and moist vermiculite are what I've used and had good results with both. The finer grade perlite would work too and I can't think why your cactus sand would not be reasonable unless I'm underestimating the size of the particles...it is just coarse sand, right?
A tiny zip lock with just a teaspoon or two or the moist medium takes care of the moisture need without taking up refrigerator space. When the time for the chill is complete, you can sow the contents of the bag - sand, vermuculite etc along with your seeds without having to extract the seeds.
Milkweed (asclepias) should not begin to germinate until brought back to warm (although seeds for some plants will)
Do you know which milkweed you have? Asclepias speciosa, fascicularis, physocarpa, syriaca will normally germinate without the chill.
Tku! I have asclepias incarnata (swamp), sullivantii (prairie) and viridis (green).