6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed


Maybe try soaking for a day or two, but the seeds don't remain viable very long and if they have to be stored, it's best done in the refrigerator where the temperature is more or less constant. If these have been dry and at room temperature for a year, treat sowing as an experiment and don't set your expectations too high.

Yes, great idea! They work like little mini-terrariums. Those of us that do a lot of Winter Sowing use many of them as well as milk jugs, plastic juice bottles and any other plastic container. If the container can't be cut to fit inside itself, duct tape works well. ;)
You can find many discussions on using them over on the Winter Sowing Forum here.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Winter Sowing Forum

I liked it so much I made a copy off the internet www.toppers--place.com/pop_bottle.pots.htm You never know how many people we know would like to know the same thing. After they are collected and made up there is more time than money if you ask around for some one who drinks soft drinks. Saves all that going into the trash can. If you don't have a sodiering gun a drill will do just as well. And they can be used over at least until they give out.

Yellowing of seedling leaves is almost always due to excessive watering. Peppers need to almost dry out between waterings. A mild dose of 1/4-1/2 strength liquid fertilizer the next time you water should pick them up.
Hopefully they are growing in a soil-less potting mix rather than soil? ;)
Dave
PS: to post a picture you have to first store it somewhere online - photobucket is a common album storage one. Then copy and paste the HTML URL for it (the one that begins

There is a detailed step-by-step how to FAQ over on the Growing Tomatoes forum that will answer most of your questions. I linked it below.
Only 3 days? Then I sure wouldn't be worried yet. Start being a little concerned after 10-12 days. ;) 75 degree SOIL temp can get you germination in 30 days but you don't have that - one reason why using bottom heat is so strongly recommended. 70 degree air temp translates to 50-60 degree soil temp in wet soil. At that temp, germination may take up to 2 weeks.
Mold is a sign that your peat pellets are too wet. That too can slow germination. They don't need to be pitched, just allowed to dry a bit with some air exposure. Just prop up the dome a bit for a few hours a day.
Transplanting is usually done once the plants develop at least 1 set of true leaves and feeding begins - using a diluted 1/4 to 1/2 strength liquid fertilizer shortly after transplanting IF the potting mix you use does not already contain some fertilizers.
You can transplant them into anything from nursery cell packs to foam coffee cups with holes punched in the bottom and filled with any good quality soil-less potting mix. Be sure to remove the pellet netting at that time.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: FAQ - How to grow tomatoes from seed

Thank you,
Yeah I knew that I did not have much to worry about, I just have nothing else to obsess over (I usually go from researching green cars to home to plant to anything). I am going to get a spray bottle because the top of the pellets get dry before the bottom. I am going to try and find a spot where they will be a little warmer.
I am going out for dinner now and then I am going to the store, hope all goes well
Mack

That quick? I thought it would take a couple of weeks! I am planning on covering my raised bed with clear plastic this weekend in order to get the soil to warm a bit more.
I've considered making a plastic bent-pvc cold frame over the bed, but I'm actually a bit worried about that too. If it's over 70 one day I'm worried it'll get too hot and when it's 40 won't it still be too cold?
Or once their hardened off, will they be okay unless it's under freezing? Would covering them with plastic in late afternoon keep them from getting too cold at night - once they are in the garden?
Can you tell I've never used transplants of early-season veggies? :-)

The plants you mentioned should be able to take cool temps, but of course, not freezing. Covering them at night and uncovering in the morning should keep them safe from frost after you've planted them out. If you're still worried about them after just a week of hardening off(if temps dip for an extended period), you could certainly go another week before planting. It all depends on the temps, especially at night, in your area.


I made that mistake the first time. I've not mixed seeds under each dome. They are doing well.
Anyone have any luck with Huchera seeds? I haven't seen any growth yet and the seeds are not showing sprouts yet.
Also, does anyone use the grow lights from walmart? I think next year I'll upgrade to some finer quality lights, but this year its budget lighting (and doing ok).




I have a 400 watt metal halide I keep about 2 feet above seedlings. My greenhouse is unheated with pots sitting on a 70 degree heating plate. The extra heat from the lamp is welcome. If my greenhouse was in the full sun it might get too hot on sunny days, even with automatic vents. Al


Since the heat mat is required for germination only, not for growing on, the standard recommendation is off the heat as soon as they germinate. The heat can easily cook new young roots.
If you search 'heat mat' here you'll find several discussions on their proper use.
Dave

It is optional. How long before you can transplant them outside? If soon, I wouldn't pinch. But if you still have a month to go and it is already 4" tall then I would. At 4" are you sure it is getting sufficient light?
Dave

Hi Dave, Yes they are sitting directly under the grow light. I hope to plant them one day next week, as soon as this cold spell is over. I think I will go out and just pinch a couple and see what happens. This is my 1st year to plant seeds and I have had a great time. Thank you both for your help......

Well...from my experience, I have found that some of my seeds, especially small seeds that are surface sown produce little fuzzy roots hairs once the radical has emerged, or soon after. This all happens pretty quickly, as they are needed to absorb water. All I am trying to say is that the seedlings in question could be just!!!
Good luck with your growing!!!
Here is a link that might be useful: Root hairs on seedling

What kind of plants? Tomatos typically have fine hairs on them and so do peppers - but it doesn't look like "white" fuzz.
I agree with Sarah, I usually see root hairs on my lettuce which is surface sown. But it goes away in a day or two as the root develops. Make sure you're getting enough air flow and that the soil isn't too wet.

Wow, that list would be way, way too long for someone to type out for you.
Basically, it would be anything that says 'needs light' or 'do not cover'.
Here's some A to Z help to get you started:
Perennials
Annual/Biennial


Thanks everyone! I'll have to try all the suggestions to find the way that works best for me. Paul
PS. I use tweezers. They're good for pushing the seeds into the soil too.