6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
I'm way new at this, obviously. It never occured to me I might have to pot-up my starts. I used peat pellets for all my starts, lettuce, thyme, chives, onions, brussels sprouts are up so far. Assuming my last frost date is toward the end of April, I should be planting the lettuce in March, will I have to pot them up? How do I know that I need to?
If it becomes rootbound then it it should be transplanted. If you can spare 2 weeks then yes move to a larger pot, if not leave them be. Timing is everything if the roots don't become bound in time for final transplant then the roots can become too damages to repair themselves. Trial and error is the best because each plant grows at a different rate. One time for a slow growing plant can be different .
At least wait till the plant is somewhat well developed. I'm not sure how big it should be I run behind sometimes qand it depends on the needs of the type of plant. I would use a hot house to ease them into the chilling weather by using a portable heater when it freezes(used for over 20 years and still a good technique. Do not permanantly plant them until the last frost is over, you do not want them to get damaged.
When the plant becomes root bound is when I would go to larger pots, the pellet will have root mass growing all arount the outside of it. Remember to score(slightly rake a knife on the outside to slightly damage the roots to promote growth and to get it used to its new pot or environment. You shouldn't need to use larger pots, even my tomatoes that get 8-10 inches tall stay in their original containter until transplant.
I have never had any issues with those companies or individuals that send seeds via the USPS. I wish more companies would use them so that their shipping rates wouldn't be so outrageous. Maybe people would be more willing to order items if the shipping was cheaper which would benefit both the consumer and the companies trying to sell their wares.
homemommy,
i logged in just to back u up. there is far more expense to maintain a retail outlet than a mailorder warehouse. high shipping prices are just another way to boost income.
whens the last time u saw a mailorder house in a shopping mall,strip mall, downtown etc.
all of what u said is so true.
i bet dollars to donuts it's cheaper to ship products than maintain a retail outlet. actual shipping rates should be all that is charged.
wildlifeman
Here is a discussion about them from last week that should help. (linked below)
And Here is a list of previous discussions on them.
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Soil Block makers
Hi - I am in Ontario too and just curious to know which varieties you are growing. If you have seedlings in February - that is very interesting. Ususally I grow zinnia, petunias, basil, marigold etc but I dont start till mid -march.
Do your plants get leggy or do they just do find till it is planting time which I believe is May for us.
Yes, may is planting time ;-)
What do I have growing...hmmm...
I started at the very end of Jan or 1st of Feb some geraniums and crazy daisys, ornamental peppers, dalhias and zinnias. I should not have started the zinnias or dalhias, just got too excited! But, the other three are all very very slow growing! They need to be started around then. I put them under shop lights, so they are all doing ok, surprisingly even the zinnias and dalhias. Out of three full seed trays (72 plants each) I have only lost 5 plants.
I have since then, about a week ago started a flat of various types of rudbekia. One is Prarie Sun, beautiful yellow flower with a green centre. Another is a type of double, and I also planted a type that has these beautiful oversized flowers and rusty centres. Two of the three varieties are short lived perennials.
This last weekend, I have started marigolds and coleus. I also planted a really neat type of coneflower. it has petals on top of the centre cone. I put those in the fridge though and they will stay there for four weeks to stratify, so they won`t come out until April.
I am hoping that by April, I can move them out to a cold frame.
Now I have learned about it, I am planning on winter sowing a whole bunch of other seeds. I just got a stand off freecycle. I am thinking of trying some extra coneflower and crazy daisy and rudbekia seeds. (I just can`t get enough of those plants, although many likely won`t flower until next year. I have some purple basil, and forget me nots, and a burgandy blanket flower that I am also thinking about winter sowing, or starting in the cold frame.
I also have some green envy Zinnias that will be directly sown in the spring.
I have probably spent over a $100.00 so far on seed. I am not sure if I spent it wisely, but I have a lot of varieties that are not the common ones, and cost a little bit more. I figure though, I will get about 500 plants out of it by the end, so, by the time you add up the cost of the other supplies to grow them, perhaps it will work out to 75 cents a plant. Even if some don`t bloom until next year, that is still a pretty good value considering they can cost $7-14 at a nursery!
I am really interested in seeing how the winter sowing thing goes. It will open up the door wide on what I can start next year. There is only so much you can grow in the house!
So, what are you planning on growing...
I also a newbie gardener, so this site help me a lot
Here is a link that might be useful: Gardening Seeds
memphistigerlily: Go to the Wintersowing Forum--quick! Almost everything you have listed can be WS'd now except the MG's and Moonflower (not sure about the Hummer vine). You will love the forum and the whole process makes it so much easier for newbies to gardening.
Prof
Weeper, neither Druse nor Clothiers databases (both reliable) indicate these must be surface sown or mention needing light to germinate at any stage of seed freshness - The Thompson/Morgan database suggests sowing 1/16 deep.
(FYI - When in doubt unless sowing dustlike tiny seed, it's usually safe to lightly cover, or sow on the surface of sowing medium and cover with grit. The grit will help to keep contact against the moist medium while still letting in some degree of light.)
Dave makes the point that most seeds do not benefit from the light until after germination. All seedings need as much light as they can get. Before germination only consider the temperature, after germination a cooler temperature is good but more light is a must. Al
I visted the local Meijers and they had a great selection. They even had some less common local store varieties like lemon cucumbers, and red cabbage. In fact, I was pleasantly surprised!
I still can't find any parsnip seed around here. :(
I stopped at the local Dollar Tree yesterday and was amazed at the seed display they had and the best part was they were 10 for $1.00 :>) They had a nice variety of flowers and veggies... So if you can get to a $ Tree store it will be worth it, I promise, I grew alot of there seeds last year and they did very well.
Christine