6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed

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sheltieche

Alys
jump over to the Winter sowing forum and read FAQ.
easy, inexpensive and works.

    Bookmark     February 24, 2009 at 6:10PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

I took the cover off last night and within hours the fungus was nearly gone.

It's magic! ;)

Dave

    Bookmark     February 24, 2009 at 7:02PM
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bdobs

My first year from seed. I seeded 72 with Tomatoes and 72 with peppers. I have 72 seedlings of each now. No problem with the peppers here

    Bookmark     February 24, 2009 at 1:03PM
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tomakers(SE MA Zone 5/6 or ?)

I also use my cable box. It works great.
JMO,
Tom

    Bookmark     February 24, 2009 at 2:11AM
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caligardener916(9)

I put mine on top of the heater vent on the floor in my son's room. I check em everyday to make sure the soil doesn't dry out the seeds. I love my babies =O )

    Bookmark     February 24, 2009 at 12:07PM
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yiorges-z5il

Again try the seed saving forum for latest advice. The gourd must be mature. clean, then air dry seed them remove fibers.... store in a dry, dark, cool location then plant in spring after danger of frost

    Bookmark     February 23, 2009 at 5:28PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Here you go. Check out the FAQ's there on which seeds require any special treatment. Gourd seeds don't - just dry storage.

Dave

Here is a link that might be useful: Seed Saving Forum

    Bookmark     February 23, 2009 at 9:16PM
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yiorges-z5il

would you believe Gomphocarpus physocarpus

    Bookmark     February 23, 2009 at 5:23PM
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poisondartfrog

pippajg, Gomphocarpus can take 7 days or so to germinate with a little bottom heat. If she is having trouble growing from seeds, it is easy to grow from cuttings or by wintering over a plant indoors or in the greenhouse. It is important to wait until the seed pods are mature before harvesting.
If she thinks the problem is with the viability of the seeds, email me and I will send her some of mine. It is a great Monarch plant.

[URL=http://s169.photobucket.com/albums/u238/Poisondartfrog/?action=view&current=DSCF1297-1.jpg][IMG]http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u238/Poisondartfrog/th_DSCF1297-1.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

    Bookmark     February 23, 2009 at 8:28PM
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homemommy

i have been starting seed for about 5 years, year over year I get a little better. The biggest challenge I have had is not having a proper light set up (at least this year that is partly resolved) and I had a tendancy to get hit hard by winter blues and neglect the plants after a few weeks, resulting in high casualties!!

But, I can share with you some of my experiances using recycled containers.

I really don't like egg cartons for seed starting. I have done it in a past, with poor results compared to small jiffy pots or pellets. They just are not that deep, tend to get soggy if over watered at all, fall apart easily, and can start to mold / mildew much more easily then other growing mediums. Also, dealing with the soil to fill them is very messy, and the carton seems to not hold it in very well. I was always moving them and spilling dirt everywhere.

If you do use egg cartons, I suggest using an antifungal agent. I can only speak from experiance with a product called No Damp, however I have heard that cinamon or Camomile tea work wonders too.

I really recommend using peat pellets though. They are not that expensive, you could try just buying just the refill packs, (no trays, just pellets). It adds about 6- 8 cents per plant but saves you a world of grief! Honestly, I think you would be hard pressed to buy a good seed starting soil for much less...

As for recycling containers. I think it is fine. The only downfall would be it is best to grow on all plants about 1-2 inches away from a fluorescent light. If the containers are not a uniform height this will be difficult to provide.

That said, if you do wish to use them, make sure they have good drainage holes in the bottom, and that you clean them out well. I am a fan of a mild bleach (even 1 part bleach to 9 parts water, or a cap full or two into a sink of water, but let them soak for a bit, the thing with bleach is about contact time compared to how strong it is. A straight bleach does its job in seconds, a very weak bleach solution may be good enough, but it needs time to do its job). But, particularly if you are using a fungicide, I think soap and water is good enough.

    Bookmark     February 23, 2009 at 1:46PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

If you want a rheostat thermostat then most greenhouse suppliers sell them - $45 and up. Check Charley's Greenhouse Supply.

Dave

    Bookmark     February 21, 2009 at 3:01PM
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thomasshawn(Z8 TX tyler)

weird for some reason I didn't get notification this had been replied to.

I guess I needed to make myself more clear in the 1st post. I was looking for an on/off type timer not a rheostat simply because that was the method I was using at the time. on for a while then off to keep the temp under control. It was working but was not as well as I liked so in the interim here is what I did:

I took the rheostat idea and ran with it. I went to Lowes and got a plug in lamp dimmer. Then I just dialed back the intensity of the lights to 75% (this had my trays all running in the mid-high 80s) so I backed it down to about 50% and now we're sitting in the 75-80 degree range pretty uniformly and I have seedlings galore.

so I'm at about $24 ($32 if you count my shop light) but I have 3 seed trays well heated/lit.

thanks for the input

Shawn

    Bookmark     February 23, 2009 at 5:41AM
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hill60(z7 BC)

The chances are the plants you are looking at on the proven winners sight are patented and you will not find seed to propagate them. What you can do is find similar seed and grow them or buy the plant if you you want that exact look.

    Bookmark     February 23, 2009 at 1:39AM
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francescod(6b/7a VA)

There are several Ageratum that are available as seed. Blue and other colors as well.

Here is a link that might be useful: Johnny's Selected Seeds

    Bookmark     February 23, 2009 at 3:51AM
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morz8(Washington Coast Z8b)

sakura, just going near, brushing up against, or even napping in the middle of poppies wouldn't make your cats ill, they would have to actually eat them to become sick and it's highly unlikely your cats would have any interest in eating them.

The list of things in our gardens that could make a pet ill if eaten is long (includes rhododendrons - both leaves and flowers, daffodils, yews, delphinium, iris just to name a very few) but outside the occasional bored chewing puppy, most of our pets have no interest at all in eating large amounts of foliage. I don't think you need to be concerned about poppies in the landscape and your cats.

    Bookmark     February 22, 2009 at 4:28PM
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sakura2006

Thank you everybody for taking your time to answer my question!
It is funny thing, I have daffodils,narcissus, california private, hydrangea, iris, etc in my garden and these plants are supposedly poisonous but my cats never got sick in these over 30 years with these plants in my back yard.
Yes, if my cats eat these plant, they get sick but they never eat these plants.
Every year my yard is full of morning glories and my daughter said seeds of morning glory is poisonous to cat but my cats never got sick.
I don't think I should worry about my cats getting sick of these plants.
Now I can sow poppy seeds without worrying about safety of my cats.

    Bookmark     February 22, 2009 at 5:57PM
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tracerracer(z7OR)

I had both this one and the greenhouse one open, thought I was asking on that one........Sorry..........T

    Bookmark     February 22, 2009 at 3:58PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Yes, you can plant peppers deeper just like tomatoes. Same with eggplant. Actually any vegetable that branches from the main stem rather than from the root ball (like lettuce does) can be transplanted deeper.

But if you can't provide them with more light they will just get leggy all over again.

Dave

    Bookmark     February 22, 2009 at 3:54PM
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heating matswhen do you take your seedlings off the mats?
Posted by nickowen February 19, 2009
2 Comments
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

Once the seeds have germinated, sprouted, they need to be removed from the heat and placed under the lights. Heat is only needed for germination, not growing on, and can cause problems for the young plants.

They won't all germinate at the same time of course but once the majority have germinated, remove from heat and the rest will either follow or likely wouldn't have sprouted anyway.

This is the main reason why it is best to not start different types of seeds in the same tray - different germination times. ;)

Dave

    Bookmark     February 19, 2009 at 9:07PM
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hambob

what if your growing in a colder location or time of year? would it still be advisable to keep the bottom heat available?

    Bookmark     February 22, 2009 at 3:19PM
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kellymcdman(4)

i feel the need. the need to seed!

    Bookmark     February 22, 2009 at 4:03AM
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jmdj1994(z4 IA)

Monsanto, Garst, Pioneer--it's been going on for years. When I was a kid we always saved our soybeans and oats to sow for the next year but as time went on this was no longer allowed. I am guessing there was heavy lobbying and legislation--though I can't tell you specific references. I know now though that if you save your beans or oats for planting next year you get sued by the big seed companies (ie Monsanto and others) and end up with big fines and all kinds of trouble. I second your opinion ditka--let them keep their genetically modified plastic food type products--I'll stick with my heirloom seeds from Seed Savers Exchange and my Great Grandma's hollyhocks thank you very much!

    Bookmark     February 22, 2009 at 2:30PM
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digdirt2(6b-7a No.Cent. AR HZ8 Sun-35)

AFAIK all varieties of alternanthera can only be propagated by cuttings or by division, which is easy to do as cutting root readily. No seeds are produced.

Dave

    Bookmark     February 21, 2009 at 2:52PM
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marricgardens

Thanks for the info Dave. I love the plant so I guess I'll be taking lots of cuttings! Marg

    Bookmark     February 22, 2009 at 8:51AM
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ironside(Zone 5 Ohio)

Fertilize using 1/4 strength of liquid fertilizer. Keep the lights about four inches away. Do not use full strength fertilizer. They will burn.

    Bookmark     February 21, 2009 at 12:38PM
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homemommy

are they marigolds?

Could it be thrips? I found a rather interesting article here:

http://www.scielo.br/pdf/aseb/v28n2/v28n2a16.pdf

Apparenty Thrips can cause purple patches on marigolds, not sure about other plants.

    Bookmark     February 21, 2009 at 11:45PM
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