6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
Once the seeds have germinated, sprouted, they need to be removed from the heat and placed under the lights. Heat is only needed for germination, not growing on, and can cause problems for the young plants.
They won't all germinate at the same time of course but once the majority have germinated, remove from heat and the rest will either follow or likely wouldn't have sprouted anyway.
This is the main reason why it is best to not start different types of seeds in the same tray - different germination times. ;)
Dave
Monsanto, Garst, Pioneer--it's been going on for years. When I was a kid we always saved our soybeans and oats to sow for the next year but as time went on this was no longer allowed. I am guessing there was heavy lobbying and legislation--though I can't tell you specific references. I know now though that if you save your beans or oats for planting next year you get sued by the big seed companies (ie Monsanto and others) and end up with big fines and all kinds of trouble. I second your opinion ditka--let them keep their genetically modified plastic food type products--I'll stick with my heirloom seeds from Seed Savers Exchange and my Great Grandma's hollyhocks thank you very much!
are they marigolds?
Could it be thrips? I found a rather interesting article here:
http://www.scielo.br/pdf/aseb/v28n2/v28n2a16.pdf
Apparenty Thrips can cause purple patches on marigolds, not sure about other plants.
is it OK to have water always in the bottom until the seeds germinate?
No, never leave water standing in the tray because yes, you can rot the seeds and you can rot the roots once seeds are germinated. Fill the tray, let the cells absorb what they want and then dump out the rest. Soil that is too moist compacts and the water forces the oxygen out of the soil - that air is just as important as water is, perhaps even more important.
Your soil only needs to be "moist" (like a wrung out sponge is a common example given) not WET. ;)
Dave
Sorry, I'm using rope light to set them on for bottom heat. Yes they get at least 12 hours of sun light, I think, it's noon here and the sun is still on the greenhouse, the greenhouse is to the east of our house so the sun will hit it for another hour or two (we have no trees around):(
I was worried about the air temp at night mostly. it still get down in 40's.
Here's picture from last year are
they leggy?
They look a little leggy to me. It is not only the length of the day but the intensity/quality of light. 12 hours of day light in the winter is not equivalent to 12 hours of light in the late spring or summer. I doubt that you get 12 hours of day light now. The days simply aren't that long yet. That won't happen until the equinox. When growing seedlings indoors or during the winter, it is generally recommended that they get from 14 to 16 hours of light. You'll need to use supplemental lighting to achieve this a prevent legginess. If you don't mind leggy plants and have been happy with your results, don't change what you are doing.
Air and soil temperature is critical to the development of plants and in particular young seedlings. You don't want them to even get close to freezing at this point. Cool (40 to 50ºF) air temperature is often used as a natural growth regulator.
In general, young seedlings will do best if kept at around 60ºF or slightly higher. This is an optimum and doesn't mean that plants won't survive if the optimum can't be met. Usually, once a plant has reached transplant size the temperature can then be reduced to finish growing the plant on. Yours have barely sprouted and if the bottom heat is all you have to warm the plants then keep them there. If you have heaters then you can remove the bottom heat if you want it won't hurt. Depending on what you are growing, I personally wouldn't want my seedlings or young plants for that matter to be growing in 40º temps, even temporarily. Especially, warm loving veggies or herbs like peppers, eggplant, and basil.
what clumsy means by weaker seedlings is if you planted multiple seeds in one pot/compartment for you to leave the seedling that gets the first true set of leaves FIRST and remove the others (in that same pot/compartment) by way of cutting them off, low to the soil surface, with scissors so that the one you leave will grow to its fullest.
thanks for info al.. i will move them to a warmer location. i'm glad to hear they are dependable, first time i've grown them from seed. here in illinois hoping will be more economical, i can treat as an annual. aha - tired of buying plants that ussually don't survive winter. tx again
I bought a box of "drink" straws (the short one used for bar drinks) - and I cut them in half for tagging seedling trays. I use the green painters tape and a permanent marker to write a little "flag" and then just put the tape (folded in half) over the straw.
It doesn't get moldy (like popsicle sticks have for me...) and the tape doesn't wear out (like paper would).
Once they are transplanted into larger pots - I just use a whole straw instead of cutting.
You get about 200 straws for a buck - cheap and effective.
:-)
There are only 3 important differences I've been able to ascertain. The t5 is more efficient, costs more, and has a longer bulb/ballast life. Other than that there are no differences as far as growing plants. The t5 gets about 10-12 more lumens per watt than the t12, but you can get 3 4' t12 lamps and good bulbs for about the cost as 1 t5 with good bulbs.
Hey all, thanks for the replies. I think I am going to go with two 2ft T8's. I would like to go 2 wide, but alas the budget won't allow for that this yr. So I am hoping two should suffice.
I am growing under an abandoned 55 gal aquarium stand, and will have the area inclosed with foil covered cardboard. Hopefully that will keep it bright enough, that the seedlings not directly under the lights won't get leggy. Guess I'll find out! LoL.. Thanks again.
Rob
Check out the Seed Saving forum here (linked on this forum's front page). There are a number of FAQ's there on several of the most common veggies, when and how to save their seed. You might check through them.
Otherwise, most veggies are best harvested for seed several days AFTER reaching their peak - over-ripe in other words. That way you know the seeds are mature. Others like leafy greens need to be allowed to bloom, seed and dry before harvesting.
Dave
I would place the seeds on top of your refrigerator at the very least rather than the floor. Warm air rises and you want the soil temp to be warm enough to trigger germination. The reason people put a lid on the seeds is to create a warm, moist environment which is ideal for germination. To avoid mold/fungus you have to air out the seeds for a few hours, ie remove the covering.
I start a lot of seeds and all are put on a heat mat which is like 70. You need a good book that will tell you to cover or not, light or not. Most seed go by cover the seed twice the size of the seed. Some germ. with no light needed. Do not start seeds to early if they can not be set out as the will get leggy. The book will tell you growing from seed to finish plant. Ball has a book.
Yes, you can plant peppers deeper just like tomatoes. Same with eggplant. Actually any vegetable that branches from the main stem rather than from the root ball (like lettuce does) can be transplanted deeper.
But if you can't provide them with more light they will just get leggy all over again.
Dave