6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
That is fast. I planted some Broccoli and Brussels sprout on a Saturday morning and germinated the next evening.
Here is a link that might be useful: gardening by the seat of my pants
All I did was nick the seeds and soaked them in warm water overnight,then planted them in seeding mix and put them in my small table top heated propagator which I got from Canadian Tire.It doesn't get too warm but the bottom heat remains constant.I have been using this for years and have always had success with germinating most seeds, but never as fast as these,I was really amazed how fast the seeds came up especially since they were not fresh seeds,in fact the Hibiscus and snail vine seeds are at least 3 years old.
Glad you figured it out! :) Just in case you don't know (and I apologize for my presumptuousness if you do), chive seed loses viability rather quickly compared to other seeds that can last years, so I'd get those seeds planted or traded before they're a year or so old.
And for future reference, many people can ID a plant from just a seed pod. Or even just seeds ~ I'd think many of us avid seed-collectors and seed-starters know exactly what many kinds look like since we've planted hundreds or thousands (or even hundreds of thousands in some people's cases! :). So if you find yourself in this position again, post pics here or in the Name That Plant forum. Bet you'll get an ID quick.
Just want to add my agreement to a few points.
I have loads of native pecan trees on my small farm/ranch and I think Freemanhouse has it about right. I've never tried that exact method, but it sort of mimics the conditions I have here naturally, and I pull loads of seedlings every summer from the flowerbeds (Ugh) and see them pop up in the pastures all the time.
The nuts drop in the fall, just in time for a pecan pie for Thanksgiving. Most winter days are warmer than 40-45 and the ground stays warmer still, but I don't see where keeping them that cool would hurt them. And the most likely places I see new seedlings is where it's moist, so I'd think soaking them for a good while before planting would be a good idea, or at the very least keeping them well watered until they germinate would be smart.
Judging from where I see seedlings, they love organic matter as well. I have many of them popping up in old piles of leaves that have half-rotted, and they seem to thrive when I transplant them into pots with half compost and half potting soil.
I also agree on planting the nuts on their side. Some of the seedlings I pull up still have the nut attached and the sprouts come from the point. So planting them on their side makes sense.
I don't know for sure how old a tree must be before fruiting, but I'd say 20 years for them to get into full swing is probably right as well. I've seen some trees on a neighbor's place that were well taken care of (watering, feeding, pruning) and were maybe half that age when they produced nuts, but since the trees weren't that big there weren't that many.
I do know from my own experience that keeping them well watered and limbed up (pruning the lower branches off) helps them take off and grow taller MUCH faster. I have a few eight year old ones at the edges of my yard that I've taken care of that way and they're about fifteen feet tall with a good sized canopy, compared the ones about that age in the pasture that are around ten feet tall and not nearly as full.
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Here is a link that might be useful: gardening by the seat of my pants
That may be difficult Sophia. You might try posting over on the Gardening in Metro New York forum and ask them. Should get some good tips there for sources.
Good luck!
Dave
Here is a link that might be useful: Metro NY Gardening forum
"if this doesn't exist, where would you go to buy vegetable seeds in general?"
I'm assuming you mean the not-so-unusual veggies. Around here most garden centers at Lowe's, Home Depot, Menards, Walmart, Kmart, etc. carry veggie seeds. They are just beginning to put them out for the season here...still too early at several of the places. Many nurseries/florists also sell seeds in Feb.-May. I've seen more heirloom varieties in stores recently, especially at some upscale nurseries. Whole Foods and other specialty food stores often have small heirloom seed racks in the spring, too.
I have no idea what kind of stores you have in Manhattan beyond the big names we see in the news. I've heard of many rooftop gardeners in big cites, though, and am sure somewhere not too far away must sell seeds.
I also like to see the seed packs before buying. But sometimes if I really want a particular variety I need to order seeds. I've been pleased with all my seed orders. I think it is bad experiences that people talk about forever, and all the good service is seldom mentioned.
I don't know if I am over thinking this or not. The seeds sprouted today. Well sort of, they appeared out of the soil but it was basically the seed with the entire casing still intact with the root below it.
Should I cover this up with soil or just let it be.
When growing indoors, transplanting is a recommended practice. When I grow indoors, I plant impatiens and pansy in foil loaf pans with shredded moist sheet moss at the bottom. (NOT milled peat moss!) I always have good root production which makes transplanting much easier!
I transplant into neat newspaper pots I learned to make on this site, also tucking the sheetmoss in the bottom, and then I just plant the whole kit-n-kaboodle outside.
Here is a link that might be useful: Newspaper pots
I too broadcast spread impatiens all together in an open flat then use the prick out method to transplant them into cellpacks. often the petunia seed i get is pelleted, so that goes into a plug tray (between 76 and 128). the seed on both is too small to start in individual cells that are much bigger. you could try market-packs - the compressed peat or fiber trays about 4"x6" designed for 6 plants. In a hobby greenhouse you might have more trouble with germination in those though. they dry out faster. It might seem time consuming, but you'll get better plants if you start in small trays and transplant when they need it. it encourages more growth.
It will definately produce seed but the seed will fall out soon after the flowers die so you need to get them early. I suggest taking stems and put im paper bags to dry out and separate later. I did not get seeds this year as I was sick during the time I needed to collect seed. Last year I collected 50plus on just a few plants.
Fungus gnats do not survive if the soil becomes dry, so one management option is to permit the soil to dry out between waterings. Remember though, you don't want to let the soil get so dry that you are stressing the plant, your goal is simply to not have soggy, wet soil all the time.
Treating the soil with a BT drench should kill the Gnats. They will be problem for your germinating seeds and you may think the seed did not germinate. The larvae of the fungus gnats can keep the seed leaves from ever being seen. There is a BT product specific to Gnat control. Al