6,340 Garden Web Discussions | Growing from Seed
I have heard that cleome likes cold stratification like mentioned above. I have also heard that they like several cycles of cold/ warm /cold/warm I throw mine in pots outside and they always come up in my pots. They don't seem to come up in my bed because my soil ids dry and the soil moisture on top is not good for germinating most things. They come up in the pots easily. I through them in the pots during the seeding process and think nothing more about them till they sprout.
Seed will germinate if the temperature is in the correct range for the species and the seed coat dormancy has been overcome either by stratifiying or nicking and moisture is available. Many gardeners start seed way too early and have plants too big/too leggy/or root bound that do not transplant well. Al
seeds have different temps. for germination. Tomatoes are ones that like 70-75 degrees. I have a room in my basement that I heat for seeds like tomatoes. Other seeds need a cooler temp like 60.Once germination has taken place a cooler temp would be okay but 40 degrees is too cool. Myself I have started plants earlier then the packet states but I provide plenty of light till I can place them in my Gh in March. I have Geraniums now that came up within 3 days and will pot them up this weekend, They may start blooming by April but most annuals that is not a problem
Will have to investigate the link you provided. COTW is the source for all things clematis and am surprised that they still list the parentage of Margaret Hunt as unknown. You may want to provide COTW with the specific link to the information regarding Margaret Hunt and it viticella heritage since they tend to be the main repository of info on clematis. It is by far the largest database on clematis information that I am aware of.
sewobsesed, does that mean I have to plant two different types of apples? So I'd have to plant pink lady and a winesap? Or do I need three in the case of winesap, so I'd need a pink lady, fuji, and a winesap? Just examples to see if I understand. Thank you again.
Use the chart on Page 2.
whoops, having trouble posting my followup. homegrown back.
followed a cool link and found this gal's blog and she has some wicked good Utuube snippets about this subject.
http://happyhobbyhabit.blogspot.com/
just follow that link and enjoy.
Are you asking for advice on starting plants indoors?
Couple things I learned from last year's experience...
- 24 hours of light is not too much (my plants grew better after I increased the light from 16 to 24 hours)
- Don't overwater
- Don't use water that has been through a water softener (I tried both softened and hard water. The plants that I used soft water on looked a little sickly when I put them in the garden)
- Don't start too early. The plants that did best for me were the ones that I started a little later and were smaller. (I started some later because I overwatered some and killed them)
- Repot often to bigger pots (the plants seemed to like that)
- Don't overfertilize (They only needed a little)
Hope it helps.
Rick
I agree with the lights. I have left my lights on 24/7 this year and the results are good.I started some seeds last weekend which is early but have many varieties to sow. I also have a small Greenhouse(6x8) I will place them there in March.
Do not have particulars on this one anemone but have done some others like japonicas, hupensis, multifida, baldensis, cylindrica, levellei- those do great with GA-3, couple of warm weeks and you get 100% germination. Nothing else worked quite as well for me.
Also with anemone you have to be sure you got viable seed- under all that cotton fluff those black rods/dots have to be fat in the middle. Even commercial seed sellers do not always understands it.
Start them in Feb or so indoor as well. Do not bother to cut tops or anything, just plop them down in May. Have been gathering good yields. Usually plant them slightly thicker than good initially as collect some fresh young onions as they go along. Main gathering is by August.
Comercially I use a mix we prepare on site. I prefer this mix because I can predict/know the results. I know the water retention, pH, fertilizer retention, compaction etc. If I were to go to a new mix then I would have to change many of my culture prectices. ...... this said........ there is no realy bad mix or any realy good mix its the one we know the best.
That's what he told me he had done, simply put them in water. He sent them to me in sopping wet sphagnum moss, I transplanted the ones that had sprouted and then threw the rest in water (I kept the sphagnum with them) and they germinated just fine. The seeds were very fresh.
Kate
I started mine in plastic baggies moistened just a bit with seed starter mix and kept them in the refridgerator. It took about 2 months for them to germinate. They were blooming the summer of the following year. Thought I would share my method.
I go to my neighborhood nursery and they have a recycle spot of all their trays and 4" pots. They let me take home all I want. i have a veritable baby nursey going under my oak trees. I germinate seed in them outside in here in Texas. I ahve a bout 100 of them.
I have found the plastic trays from Lowe's or Home Depot, the ones that hold the larger pots until they are sold are PERFECT. they are about 4 to 5 inches deep, they have holes in the bottom already for drainage and there are 6 spots, so you can plant all one thing or several things (just be sure to label well). They obviously come in different sizes and style, they all work :)
Peat pots BTW are the WORST and I'd never use them again. Styrofoam cups work 1000 times better to me.
I also recycle the plastic 6 pack trays that most plants come in. Notice the big plastic storage container in the bottom right corner of the photo...these work great too.
here are some pics of seedlings in these.
I have also taken them from these containers and then transplanted them to the styrofoam cup after they get their first true leaves...They to the garden.
PS: They are free. And these take out trays work great too
